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Warmoth Owners Club!!

#3,961
Warmoth updated their website. It's kind of a mixed bag for me. Colors are drab compared to the old black backround. There is now no way to login with a username to check orders anymore, but you can still track orders if you have your order number. It didn't work though so hopefully they're still working on it.
I was used to the old style showcase and so far find the new one frustrating to use. Custom order pages are a bright spot though, it builds your item up including a visualization of it, which includes all the options chosen and the finish.

I'll be totally honest, the way the site looks isn't going to keep me from placing orders, and not having user accounts might be a good idea in this age of businesses getting hacked for their user information.
 
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#3,962
I used this bad boy yesterday at a horrendous gig. Best thing about the gig was how great this bass played and sounded!!!!
8A3E563C-105A-46AF-8969-FE9F3897A113.jpeg
 
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#3,963
Protagonist said:
Warmoth updated their website. It's kind of a mixed bag for me. Colors are drab compared to the old black backround. There is now no way to login with a username to check orders anymore, but you can still track orders if you have your order number. It didn't work though so hopefully they're still working on it.
I was used to the old style showcase and so far find the new one frustrating to use. Custom order pages are a bright spot though, it builds your item up including a visualization of it, which includes all the options chosen and the finish.

I'll be totally honest, the way the site looks isn't going to keep me from placing orders, and not having user accounts might be a good idea in this age of businesses getting hacked for their user information.
Click to expand...
They did a video about the upcoming (now accomplished) changes, and they warned that one of the effects would be not being able to look up orders. So I took screenshots of all my orders.
 
#3,965
Protagonist said:
I did not see the video. :crying:
Click to expand...
Aaron from Warmoth has posted here before, not too long ago even. It probably would have been a good idea for him (or someone at Warmoth) to post that video in this thread.

I could have done it if I'd have thought about it. I think I got an email from them with the link, and that's how I saw it.
 
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#3,969
bassnyc1 said:
Nice looking bass! Could you give us the specs on this?

(you avatar photo looks a bit familiar!)
Click to expand...

Sure
It is a Alder Dinky body with Sadowsky preamp and pickups. Neck is a super bass Teak with Goncalo Alves board.
Super solid and just sings.
The tone, fit and feel are incredible, I should have done this earlier

My avatar is my trusted American Geddy Lee , another killer bass for sure
 
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#3,970
pjbassist said:
I actually bought it that way from the gentleman who had it built. I had never seen anything like it, and am quite happy that I happened upon it.

Also, thank for the photo of the difference in size...I think you can see the same thing in the pic of the triplets.View attachment 4252022
Click to expand...


Would you mind to describe the difference in tone between the two Double-Ps with both PUs full on? Thanks!
 
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#3,972
TK4261 said:
Anyone notice on the new Warmoth website that you can no longer choose a unique top or fretboard....I was reading that they took that option off for good.....Not a good move by Warmoth. :poop:
Click to expand...

I was able to; just seems like they don't have a lot in stock. You have to choose the Lam Top Wood first, then if there are some available for that particular wood another drop down menu will appear.
 
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#3,973
spoonman69 said:
Would you mind to describe the difference in tone between the two Double-Ps with both PUs full on?
Click to expand...

Awe man... @spoonman69 I am honestly SO bad at this sort of thing, but I'll give it a shot.

1st, let me say that with both basses I always have both PUs on full. The standard Double P (wood grain) is from 1988 and I have never found another bass that I like the sound of as much...until the P/Reversed P (black bass).
There is something about the tone of the Black Bass that is more full or even sounding. Not that the Wood Grain bass is not full or even, but the Black Bass is just MORE somehow by comparison.

I have been playing with the same drummer for 22 years and he loves my wood grain bass, but always says the same, "Use the Black one, it just sounds better somehow?" Same thing with sound guys that I regularly work with, when I play them side by side, they say, "Use the Black one!"

I know that wasn't much of a description, but I hope that helps. BTW, they are both 100% Warmoth, with Active EMG pickups!
 
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#3,979
Hello all you wonderful people with these beautiful Warmoth builds! I've been working on a build sheet and doing digital mockups for a '72 p-bass and neck build that I'm hoping to order sooner than later. This is actually one of the harder things I've had to think of because I have over a dozen basses in my collection right now and every single one of them is different. Neck shape, body, pickups - no two are exactly alike in feel or tone. I can pick up my CIJ Geddy Lee Jazz with its slim C neck and enjoy it just as much as I do the 1.75" nut width on my Lakland Skyline 44-64.

That brings me to the build and some questions -

1. I'm pretty certain I want to do a slim taper with a 1.5" nut. I just feel at home with a thin front to back profile and that's probably my one major exception to how I prefer my necks. I measured the necks of all of my 4 string basses and the thickest one is .840" at the first fret with a 9.5" radius fretboard. That's my max right there. I don't do extra chunky or U shaped and I've sold off several basses with necks that just didn't fit. So my question is will the slim taper on a 1.5" width neck get fairly close to the feel of a CIJ/MIM Geddy Lee neck? I think the numbers are pretty close from what I've seen and a 10" radius is one of my favorite.

2. The best to touch wood feeling neck I have is my EBMM Stingray Special SLO Special with its roasted maple and whatever they did to it finish wise. It's a work of art and I'm pretty sure I want to continue the roasted maple route for this one, keep it raw, and decide if I want to do anything to it later. I also think I want to pair it with a wenge fretboard and stainless 6150 frets. Have any of you done this wood combination for a neck?

3. Body wood - I'm somewhat undecided on this since I'm going to do a solid white pearl or alpine white finish. I have alder, ash, poplar, and Spanish cedar all at my disposal right now and I can't say that I favor one over the other for tone. They all sound good. However, I do like a somewhat lighter weight instrument in the 8-9 lbs range, but it doesn't have to be a featherweight and I've always used wide and comfortable straps. Would a roasted alder or ash body help with this without introducing neck dive?

4. Pickups - I plan to try out the DiMarzio Relentless p pickup with the nickel cover. Has anyone installed one of these yet in a build?


Here's my build sheet so far -

Body- 1972 P bass
Construction: Solid
Core Wood: Alder, roasted alder, or roasted swamp ash
Lam Top Wood: No Lam Top
Right / Left Handed: Right-Handed
Control Cavity: Top Rout
Neck Pickup Rout: P Bass® (Standard Split Set)
Bridge Pickup Rout: None
Jack Rout: 7/8" (22mm) Side Jack Hole
Bridge Rout: Gotoh 201
Neck Pocket: 4-Bolt Neck Pocket
Battery Box: None
Paint Category: Metallic or Solid
Top Color: White Pearl or Alpine White
Back Color: White Pearl or Alpine White
Satin or Gloss: Gloss

Neck -
Shaft Wood: Roasted Maple
Fretboard Wood: Wenge
Unique Choice: No, Warmoth can choose for me.
Stiffening Rods: Standard Steel Rods
Nut Width: 1-1/2" (38mm) J Bass®
Left or Right Handed: Right Handed
Neck Profile: Slim Taper
Number of Frets: 20
Binding: None
Fret Size and Material: SS6150 - Wide & Tall (Stainless)
Tuner Hole Size: Standard 11/16
Inlay Shape: Blocks
Inlay Material: White Pearloid
Side Dots: White Side Dots
String Nut: GraphTech White TUSQ XL - Standard Nut
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Finish: None

Hardware -
Pickguard: Matte black .09"
Screws: Chrome
Bridge: Chrome Fender HiMass
Knobs: Chrome flat top
Tuners: Hipshot Ultralite
Strap buttons: Chrome Dunlop straplok
Pickup: DiMarzio Relentless middle - nickel

And here's a quick and very dirty rendering in white pearl, of which I know is actually more white than they show. I've adjusted the neck colors to be a little more in line with real life. I'm totally open to any suggestions -

Screen Shot 2021-08-08 at 2.30.44 PM.png
 
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#3,980
fauxtoe said:
Hello all you wonderful people with these beautiful Warmoth builds! I've been working on a build sheet and doing digital mockups for a '72 p-bass and neck build that I'm hoping to order sooner than later. This is actually one of the harder things I've had to think of because I have over a dozen basses in my collection right now and every single one of them is different. Neck shape, body, pickups - no two are exactly alike in feel or tone. I can pick up my CIJ Geddy Lee Jazz with its slim C neck and enjoy it just as much as I do the 1.75" nut width on my Lakland Skyline 44-64.

That brings me to the build and some questions -

1. I'm pretty certain I want to do a slim taper with a 1.5" nut. I just feel at home with a thin front to back profile and that's probably my one major exception to how I prefer my necks. I measured the necks of all of my 4 string basses and the thickest one is .840" at the first fret with a 9.5" radius fretboard. That's my max right there. I don't do extra chunky or U shaped and I've sold off several basses with necks that just didn't fit. So my question is will the slim taper on a 1.5" width neck get fairly close to the feel of a CIJ/MIM Geddy Lee neck? I think the numbers are pretty close from what I've seen and a 10" radius is one of my favorite.

2. The best to touch wood feeling neck I have is my EBMM Stingray Special SLO Special with its roasted maple and whatever they did to it finish wise. It's a work of art and I'm pretty sure I want to continue the roasted maple route for this one, keep it raw, and decide if I want to do anything to it later. I also think I want to pair it with a wenge fretboard and stainless 6150 frets. Have any of you done this wood combination for a neck?

3. Body wood - I'm somewhat undecided on this since I'm going to do a solid white pearl or alpine white finish. I have alder, ash, poplar, and Spanish cedar all at my disposal right now and I can't say that I favor one over the other for tone. They all sound good. However, I do like a somewhat lighter weight instrument in the 8-9 lbs range, but it doesn't have to be a featherweight and I've always used wide and comfortable straps. Would a roasted alder or ash body help with this without introducing neck dive?

4. Pickups - I plan to try out the DiMarzio Relentless p pickup with the nickel cover. Has anyone installed one of these yet in a build?


Here's my build sheet so far -

Body- 1972 P bass
Construction: Solid
Core Wood: Alder, roasted alder, or roasted swamp ash
Lam Top Wood: No Lam Top
Right / Left Handed: Right-Handed
Control Cavity: Top Rout
Neck Pickup Rout: P Bass® (Standard Split Set)
Bridge Pickup Rout: None
Jack Rout: 7/8" (22mm) Side Jack Hole
Bridge Rout: Gotoh 201
Neck Pocket: 4-Bolt Neck Pocket
Battery Box: None
Paint Category: Metallic or Solid
Top Color: White Pearl or Alpine White
Back Color: White Pearl or Alpine White
Satin or Gloss: Gloss

Neck -
Shaft Wood: Roasted Maple
Fretboard Wood: Wenge
Unique Choice: No, Warmoth can choose for me.
Stiffening Rods: Standard Steel Rods
Nut Width: 1-1/2" (38mm) J Bass®
Left or Right Handed: Right Handed
Neck Profile: Slim Taper
Number of Frets: 20
Binding: None
Fret Size and Material: SS6150 - Wide & Tall (Stainless)
Tuner Hole Size: Standard 11/16
Inlay Shape: Blocks
Inlay Material: White Pearloid
Side Dots: White Side Dots
String Nut: GraphTech White TUSQ XL - Standard Nut
Mounting Holes: Standard 4 Bolt
Finish: None

Hardware -
Pickguard: Matte black .09"
Screws: Chrome
Bridge: Chrome Fender HiMass
Knobs: Chrome flat top
Tuners: Hipshot Ultralite
Strap buttons: Chrome Dunlop straplok
Pickup: DiMarzio Relentless middle - nickel

And here's a quick and very dirty rendering in white pearl, of which I know is actually more white than they show. I've adjusted the neck colors to be a little more in line with real life. I'm totally open to any suggestions -

View attachment 4362444
Click to expand...

Here's another possible option using a wenge neck and a canary fretboard -

Screen Shot 2021-08-11 at 8.16.41 PM.png
 
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