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What battery do you trust for your active?

View attachment 634751 Duracell Quantums' just made their way onto mine 2 weeks ago.

I have always trusted that brand for acid leakage.

I've been using Duracell Quantum's for the past year in my active 5 string basses. One of which is 18 volt. No problems with any of them. I just make sure to pull the cord out of the input jack when the bass isn't being used so they don't drain unnecessarily.

TD
 
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Well, you can chose to ignore my reply and believe that to be the case, or you can do your own research and see that indeed they are not ALL the same, this thread is the classic case of why people say the internet is full of misinformation ..

Lithium batteries are vastly different from Alkaline batteries....

When read in context, he meant the batteries are the same performance among brands, not alk vs lith.
 
I only own one active bass so I'm not one to say but....

I imagine it wouldn't be re-inventing the wheel to make it run on phantom power supplied by another box on your pedal board? I assume you'd need a TRS or XLR connection to the instrument, but with the popularity of on-board active electronics I wonder why that hasn't become a thing?
 
I've been using Duracells since forever, but I can live with an Energizer as well.

Rechargeables aren't really the way to go with an active bass because when they lose charge, they do so quickly. There have been attempts to devise a cabling system to power an active system without a battery, but they weren't really popular - it's too easy to do improper wiring and cabling and introduce voltages where they simply don't need to be. EMG used to offer a box that did this, and Alembic did and maybe still does.

Rechargables typically put out a lower voltage fully charged
 
Back when I used active basses and guitars more often, the lithium ones were what I grabbed. They were more expensive and usually found next to the smoke alarms in the same aisle

Nowadays I'm down to 5 string MM and that's it, and I feed it whatever 9v I have around. I gets changed maybe twice a year, but I don't use it very often. If the preamp can handle it, and they fit in the cavity, I enjoy the sound of running two in series for 18v. Always sounded great with EMG equipped guitars too. Bottom line, check the voltage if you have a meter handy. Once they drop below 7.5 or so volts it's time for a fresh one imo. And that's a rough rule. If I know the instrument and preamp I can hear it. And from an engineering standpoint these circuits tend to draw very little current so the longevity of the battery may vary from brand to brand, but its mostly due to shelf life and how fresh they are. I would never recommended rechargeable batteries as they lose their ability to hold a charge over time. But 9v is 9v. Some may disagree, but I am no Eric Johnson.
 
Duracell's or Energizers... Currently I have Duracells.. I buy them at Costco or BJ's 8 for $15 .. I just got a set of the regulars.. but the Quantum 9V s have finally gotten here.. (for a while all I could find in the Quantum was D,C,AA & AAA) so when the ones I have now run out I will get those.. but that won't be for at least another year or more most likely considering I just bought an 8 pack.
 
duracell-procell-9-volt-battery-each--11332-p.jpg



I was looking at these on Amazon, and they have them in Gold, Grey (with a red stripe), and Red (with a grey stripe, like your picture).

Is there a difference between these?
 
Some thoughts:

In the olden days (three months ago) when I used to do FOH for a large church with many wireless devices, my absolutely unscientific study caused me to come to the conclusion that the 9V Procells are worth the extra cost over the coppertops and the AA Procells are not. The 9V Procells seem to stay at a higher charge level for longer than the coppertops - my policy was to toss any battery that tested at or below a certain place on the tester, and I always got a LOT longer out of the Procell 9V. This was not the case for the AAs - both Procells and coppertops hit my 'replace' mark at the same time, so this didn't justify the extra cost of the Procells for the way I used them.

Also: some devices I have met (photo and audio) explicitly state not to use lithium-ion batteries. I do not know why. More devices say not to use rechargeables. I suspect this is because of the lower voltage.

And: if you, like me, grab a handful of slightly-used batteries out of the 'rehearsal batteries' bin, be sure to check their state of charge relative to each other if you're putting two into an instrument. You want them in as close to the same state as possible.

Oh, one more thing:

shopwisely.jpg


Shop wisely.
 
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They're about $9 each, but with a shelf life of nearly forever, and lasting 1.5x as long, this is the only battery that goes into my $10000 Alembic, as well as the others..



View attachment 634605
I have NEVER heard of any issues with them used with instruments but as a precaution, I personally avoid using them in anything expensive. Lithium batteries can be susceptible to fire and explosion where venting is an issue and I know the odds are low, but I'd rather burn through standard batteries than take the chance. The worst that can happen is a bit of corrosion that I can wipe away. I remove them when they are not actively played.

A side benefit of lithium is a lower magnetic signature - but I am doubtful that a little magnetism makes any audible difference with active electronics.
 
Any name brand 9V will be fine. With modern manufacturing technology, many batteries offer a 10 YEAR standby life! The current draw in a bass is so small, that a new alkaline might last years.
Just do as mentioned above and change them every few months.
Lithiums are great if you have a huge current draw, but a total waste of money for a bass, plus if one shorted internally, there is so much power available it could burn up your bass!
 
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I have NEVER heard of any issues with them used with instruments but as a precaution, I personally avoid using them in anything expensive. Lithium batteries can be susceptible to fire and explosion where venting is an issue and I know the odds are low, but I'd rather burn through standard batteries than take the chance. The worst that can happen is a bit of corrosion that I can wipe away. I remove them when they are not actively played.

A side benefit of lithium is a lower magnetic signature - but I am doubtful that a little magnetism makes any audible difference with active electronics.

I'm pretty sure the only danger to lithium ion batteries is from the rechargeable variety, as the heat generated can be enough to cause fire.

These are much more stable as they are single use cells, and this is why they are sold for smoke detectors and other long life applications, as their stability gives them a 10+ year life without risk of cell breach.
 
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I can see guitars being subject to a bit more handling than a smoke detector though, and by design smoke detectors are well ventilated. Guitars are often not, especially in a case, and can be subjected to a few odd extremes - like having half full beer bottles fall on them. A short is the danger with them.

Still, it is very unlikely and I have never heard of anything bad happening.

I had to research this stuff for their use in a Navy project long ago. This is from a related paper....

Naval Surface Warfare Center (NSWC) Carderock was tasked to rate the safety of several such specialized battery packs. It was found that packs consisting of two 9V batteries in parallel were relatively safe, experiencing no violent behavior. Battery packs with six 9Vs in parallel vented and deformed the 9V batteries, but no smoke or names were noticed. A battery pack with thirty 9V batteries, 2 in series with 15 legs, experienced venting, smoke and flames under certain circumstances.