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What's On Your Workbench?

Not exactly my workbench, but this is what I've been spending all my time on.
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Thanks Mr. Rose. This is my second, but my wife's 1st.

The new one (Charlie is her name) was born 13 weeks early, so she's going to be staying in the NICU for a while. She's very small (780g, or 1lb, 11.5oz), but her prognosis is very good so far. They've got her under the UV lamp to help with a Hyperbillirubinemia problem.
 
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on the bench today - new neck holding jigs for the cnc.

over the past couple years I've made a lot of tweaks to our flat style headstock holding jig, and it's time to build a fresh one.

I'm also building a new set of holding jigs for our angled headstock style neck, incorporating several individual jigs into a single unit that mounts to the cnc table. I'm also building a new design jig for holding the neck in position to machine the headstock (tuner key holes, volute, thickness, and perimeter)

should make for a fun day

(edited to add image below)
VRB_NeckHoldingJig_2016Nov05.jpg
 
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here's the (almost) completed jig. I still have two threaded inserts to finalize the location for, but I'll do that when a I have a neck blank aligned on the jig so I can ensure I have room for the cnc to safely pass by and not snag one of the hold downs

VRB_NeckHoldingJig_2016Nov06.jpg


the beauty of this jig is that I have all three beck blank working positions in a single platform. I can work a single neck or batches with the same ease and repeatability every time I load this onto the table. and now that I have all of this laid out in CAD and tool paths programmed for the cnc, I can make a fresh waste board with location pins and threaded inserts in about 20 minutes.

onward to an update of the neck jig for my angled headstock necks ...
 
Home Depot pine project. I glued these two pieces together over a year ago. I had ordered a couple 30" scale maple fretless neck blanks for $50.00 apiece, cheap necks but the last one worked well on the 51 Tele P BASS project.

All I did today was rout out for the neck and pickup and started carving away on the body, not pictured, since my bandsaw ain't working, cutting out the body is a real pain. I'm not sure what I'm going to do, very few parts are available for this old saw and no bearings at all, which is the problem. So I'm hand cutting out the body, an undersized Tele style.

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I have another 34" scale project in the works, the neck is done, Ebony over Mahogany, the body will be black walnut over sasafras. No pictures yet, maybe tomorrow.
 
on the bench, 23 Nov 2016 - retrofitting blocks to a neck built last summer and hanging in inventory, would have been loads easier to do this during the initial build process ...

RD_BlockedJneck_BlockCavitiesFreshlyCut.jpg


still a lot of hand detailing left to do prior to fitting the black blocks into place
 
Inlay can be a bit tedious, it's been a while since I've done any.

I'm around 4 hours from finishing this project, Thanksgiving and I had to drive back to Homestead FL to be with my family, I stopped by the KICCO WMA to campout with a bunch of friends last weekend so the project patiently awaits my return.

I decided to roast the bass, I did a quick practice on a 2 by 4 and thought it looked pretty good so I roasted the pine body and the back of the maple over maple neck. I'm using a poly satin finsih to seal the wood.

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I haven't gotten any polyurethane on the top yet, I just had time enough to rout for the Strat style phone out housing before I took off.

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A mockup before I started the final finish.

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The cut outs were done using a 15" scroll saw and was a pain in the arse. The top is wenge, bubinga with a layer of maple veneer and a layer of black dyed poplar veneer and was hard as nails and not easy to work. It still needs fine tuned with sandpaper. Inside the cavity under the cut outs I have 4 blue LED lights with a switch. I know it's a bit much but it's for a show I'll be in next summer in Reading PA. The pickgaurd is a super nice piece of ziricote that will have a thin maple veneer on the bottom for contrast.

The only filter I used was to make the pics darker because I have some powerful shop lights that wash everything out. It does have nice contrast but you know what happens when you finish it gets darker all around so it will be muted a lot later.

Getting all those layers to bend for the arm contour would take a few paragraphs to explain. I have over 30 hours in the body already... not fun or nice.. Dumb ideas but it is coming out nice.
 
How do you get the glue up tight on those? And is the pickguard removable or is it just routed?

I use two opposing router templates to cut each side. The wenge in particular is prone to tearing out along the grain so I cut very close to the line before making the cut and make sure not to remove more material than the router is happy with. I also climb cut to eliminate tearout but that's not something I would recommend other people to try.

The pick guard is routed from the body with a flush trim bit and I used a plywood template and a bearing guided 7° bevel bit to make the final profile.
 

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