No, no. Meat Hammer is a great band name. I’m picturing jazz standards.
Did somebody say folk-metal?
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What's On Your Workbench?
- Thread starter HaMMerHeD
- Start date
Did somebody say folk-metal?
Those are beautiful! That's a really classy way to smash poultry!
How are they finished?
How are they finished?
Jan's big brother.No, no. Meat Hammer is a great band name. I’m picturing jazz standards.
Thank you! The missus gets a small, gleeful smirk on her face when she uses her mallet.
They are finished with cutting board oil, to be food safe.
Ugg, apparently I manipulated the p pu too much the lower tap on the treble half doesn't work...
I'll look for obvious stuff.
But it's probably gonna be sent in for repairs.
Sympathy like. That stinks.
I have an old Bill Lawrence blade pickup from the 1970s that’s dead in one coil and the whole thing’s epoxy potted. Makes a nice paper weight….
It’s boxed up. I “think” I see a broken wire from the tap.
Tom Brantley fixed it before. I’m sure he can do it again.
Shipping and Contact — TOM BRANTLEY REWINDS
That's awesome! Where? Looks like most of the May dates or on the left side of the country.
Looks like the are in Charlotte in April; that;s just a couple hours from me. Hmmm...
Why don’t we start a new punk rock band then : The Smatched Poultry, featuring Flamingo on bass ?!
He rips on violaWhy don’t we start a new punk rock band then : The Smatched Poultry, featuring Flamingo on bass ?!
Revisiting the MIJ ‘51 P-bass neck with the messed-up truss rod.
When the anchor broke through the fingerboard I made the assumption that the anchor had drifted towards the heel, compressed the wood and the wood, in turn, had “mushroomed” and expanded outward through the thin top surface of the neck and the flat-sawn grain popped.
It turns out I was right on all counts:
I peeled the (ridiculously thin) piece of maple up and out of the way and I was able to get a good look inside. I was able to tap the rod about 3/32” towards the headstock (that’s how much it had moved).
I now have to decide whether to saturate the anchor area with water-thin cyanoacrylate or water-thin epoxy before clamping that little piece back in place. I’ll think on it for a few days.
When the anchor broke through the fingerboard I made the assumption that the anchor had drifted towards the heel, compressed the wood and the wood, in turn, had “mushroomed” and expanded outward through the thin top surface of the neck and the flat-sawn grain popped.
It turns out I was right on all counts:
I peeled the (ridiculously thin) piece of maple up and out of the way and I was able to get a good look inside. I was able to tap the rod about 3/32” towards the headstock (that’s how much it had moved).
I now have to decide whether to saturate the anchor area with water-thin cyanoacrylate or water-thin epoxy before clamping that little piece back in place. I’ll think on it for a few days.
Meanwhile, on the other side of the shop, I restarted the stalled restoration of my old Walker-Turner band saw. I mounted some nice, new, polyurethane tires and glued them in place and then start getting things aligned. It turns out nothing was aligned with anything! Not one single thing was correctly aligned in any way and the order in which you get things lined up matters because it’s easy to end up doing some of the steps twice (ask me how I know!).
I decided it was best to just start from scratch. I leveled the stand, then got the drive shaft level and perpendicular to the table, then made sure the drive wheel was plumb and square to the table, then on to the upper wheel; getting it aligned and plumb with the drive wheel and, lastly, getting the table mounts level and lined up with each other. All in all it was about two and a half hours of shimming, measuring, poking, prodding, measuring again, expletives, adjusting…. and finally achieving correct alignment of everything!
Now I can focus on building a better table for it and then it’ll be time to order some blades.
I decided it was best to just start from scratch. I leveled the stand, then got the drive shaft level and perpendicular to the table, then made sure the drive wheel was plumb and square to the table, then on to the upper wheel; getting it aligned and plumb with the drive wheel and, lastly, getting the table mounts level and lined up with each other. All in all it was about two and a half hours of shimming, measuring, poking, prodding, measuring again, expletives, adjusting…. and finally achieving correct alignment of everything!
Now I can focus on building a better table for it and then it’ll be time to order some blades.
It’s a small saw with a limited capacity in terms of both size and power but it’s the perfect size for my small shop and my sister has a much larger bandsaw an hour away when I need to resaw anything. This little guy will work out great for my needs.I will say, that thing will be amazing when you get it done.
Just needs some candy apple red metalflake....
I get bored, bored, bored, with "Machinery Gray" or is it Grey?
I get bored, bored, bored, with "Machinery Gray" or is it Grey?
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I'm building an aluminum pry bar.
It's mostly for prying up the tab on soft drink cans. My fingernails have become way too weak to do that in my old age. I just need to finish sanding and polishing, and I'll want to drill a 1/4" hole in the upper area somewhere, for hanging it up.
It's mostly for prying up the tab on soft drink cans. My fingernails have become way too weak to do that in my old age. I just need to finish sanding and polishing, and I'll want to drill a 1/4" hole in the upper area somewhere, for hanging it up.
