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What's On Your Workbench?

It looks like my Black & Decker drill press may be on my workbench soon.

BDDrillPress.jpg


When I went to drill an 1/8" pilot hole in my pry bar, I could not chuck the drill bit. The chuck started jamming. It will chuck the 1/4" or larger bit fine, but it jams when I try to go smaller. Do you think it's worth trying to replace or disassemble the chuck (Does it even come off?) or should I just replace the whole thing? We got this close to 20 years ago for free - my husband got it through work as a "5 years of service" award.

Any advice from the collective here?
 
It looks like my Black & Decker drill press may be on my workbench soon.

View attachment 5342975

When I went to drill an 1/8" pilot hole in my pry bar, I could not chuck the drill bit. The chuck started jamming. It will chuck the 1/4" or larger bit fine, but it jams when I try to go smaller. Do you think it's worth trying to replace or disassemble the chuck (Does it even come off?) or should I just replace the whole thing? We got this close to 20 years ago for free - my husband got it through work as a "5 years of service" award.

Any advice from the collective here?
I do “think” the chucks come off..you might have to google it.
 
Normally they do.

With a consumer model checking the exact model number for a parts list/diagram would inform if it's threadlocker and left-hand threads or a standard taper mount. Well, looking inside the opened chuck might reveal a "portable drill-like" attachment of a screw or bolt in there if it's really unusual for a press. If the bearings are not shot a new chuck would likely give it a new lease on life, pretty inexpensively.

Looks similar to a BDDP100 which appears to have a standard Jacobs taper mount for the chuck to the spindle shaft. Note that is different from a Morse taper mount. (Which are nomally done via a thing with a Morse on one end and a Jacobs on the other end, anyway - but easier to get out of the press.) That is confirmed by the "assembly" portion of the owner's manual, but they don't say which JT (Jacobs taper) size it is. But of course it might be some other model, too.
 
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Navigating the sea of various Jacobs tapers for consumer drills can be daunting but it can be done. The chuck will definitely be removable one way or another. In a best-case scenario you will be able to drive it out with a drift.

Rebuilding a Jacobs chuck is something I’m glad I’ve done once but I would never want to do it again. It was a serious chore and not a very fun one. If you have access to an arbor press it will be substantially easier. Make sure you keep the jaws in the correct order!

If you’re able to find the mounting type you may want to check replacement options in the MSC catalog. By the time you’ve spent the time and muscle to rebuild that chuck you might be better off just getting a nicer one!
 
Normally they do.

With a consumer model checking the exact model number for a parts list/diagram would inform if it's threadlocker and left-hand threads or a standard taper mount. Well, looking inside the opened chuck might reveal a "portable drill-like" attachment of a screw or bolt in there if it's really unusual for a press. If the bearings are not shot a new chuck would likely give it a new lease on life, pretty inexpensively.

Looks similar to a BDDP100 which appears to have a standard Jacobs taper mount for the chuck to the spindle shaft. Note that is different from a Morse taper mount. (Which are nomally done via a thing with a Morse on one end and a Jacobs on the other end, anyway - but easier to get out of the press.) That is confirmed by the "assembly" portion of the owner's manual, but they don't say which JT (Jacobs taper) size it is. But of course it might be some other model, too.

Just checked, yes, it's a BDDP100. So I could just buy a standard Jacobs taper mount chuck, and swap them. Time for a little more research. Thanks for all the replies. And if I can't figure it out, I'll have to invest in a new drill press. I've got my eyes on a nice Jet...
 
Well, getting a new check will be a crapshoot. The owner's manual doesn't state the Taper spec of the chuck. So I can spend $40 on a replacement chuck which may or may not work, or anywhere between $150 to $600 on a replacement drill press which I know will work. Decisions, decisions...
 
Just checked, yes, it's a BDDP100. So I could just buy a standard Jacobs taper mount chuck, and swap them. Time for a little more research. Thanks for all the replies. And if I can't figure it out, I'll have to invest in a new drill press. I've got my eyes on a nice Jet...

Research indicates you'd want to get the old chuck off before spending money on a new chuck. That way you could measure, and if the taper proves uncooperative you could just buy a new drill press and sell this one down the line.

Another option (if this one is running true) would be a mini/micro chuck with a 1/4, 3/8 or 1/2" shaft to be grabbed by the chuck you have and used just for the smaller drill bits. That looks even less expensive and involves no fighting with tapers assembled for 20 years.
 
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I kind of limped along with my Grandad’s Craftsman bench drillpress, Circa 1947, for years, managed to keep it running, but the slop in the worn out bearings makes it imprecise at best. I finally relegated it to secondary (non guitar related) jobs. My mother in law was downsizing, so I bought the late 80’s era Delta floor press her husband owned. I don’t think I realized how bad the craftsman had gotten until I used the Delta. The Craftsman had a better depth stop, but this thing has no runout, and it’s powerful as hell. You earned it, and since the old one didn’t cost you a nickel, treat yourself to a real floor model, or get a used one, plenty around.
 
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They do come off as you’ve already figured out. The one on my floor stand Craftsman had 33JT or JT33 stamped on it somewhere (I could be remembering the wrong number) for a #33 Jacobs Taper.
That’s the taper of the chuck I rebuilt for my Craftsman 150. Getting it removed was a bear. Getting it rebuilt was a bigger bear! The #33 on mine was also mounted with a threaded collar requiring a pin spanner that snugged the taper in place. A giant pain.

Just checked, yes, it's a BDDP100. So I could just buy a standard Jacobs taper mount chuck, and swap them. Time for a little more research. Thanks for all the replies. And if I can't figure it out, I'll have to invest in a new drill press. I've got my eyes on a nice Jet...
The point is there’s no “standard Jacobs taper”. They have manufactured dozens of different tapers for different drills. If you like the drill press replacing the chuck, even with a much nicer one than a stock replacement, will still be way cheaper than replacing the whole machine so it’s probably worth figuring out which taper it is.

I kind of limped along with my Grandad’s Craftsman bench drillpress, Circa 1947, for years, managed to keep it running, but the slop in the worn out bearings makes it imprecise at best. I finally relegated it to secondary (non guitar related) jobs. My mother in law was downsizing, so I bought the late 80’s era Delta floor press her husband owned. I don’t think I realized how bad the craftsman had gotten until I used the Delta. The Craftsman had a better depth stop, but this thing has no runout, and it’s powerful as hell. You earned it, and since the old one didn’t cost you a nickel, treat yourself to a real floor model, or get a used one, plenty around.
Mine’s a King-Seeley/Craftsman 150, circa 1957 with very low miles on it. A very generous gift from a friend who had “a surplus of drill presses.” Thanks to the low mileage I was able to get the runout to within .004” but it was not without considerable effort. It’s now a great machine.
 
Just picked up this Acoustic 370 bass head. I will start checking it out as soon as I find my fuse holders. If all is well I'll probably post it in the classifieds on TB. I have the case and looks to be only missing two fader knobs (typical) and the fuse holder insert. I just ned to find my box of fuse holders and parts.
IMG_9312[1].JPG
Update just so happened there was an extra fuse holder insert in my box of parts. Whooopee!!. Now just need to order some 7 amp fuses.
IMG_9313[1].JPG
 
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Just picked up this Acoustic 370 bass head. I will start checking it out as soon as I find my fuse holders. If all is well I'll probably post it in the classifieds on TB. I have the case and looks to be only missing two fader knobs (typical) and the fuse holder insert. I just ned to find my box of fuse holders and parts.View attachment 5343550
Nice, congrats!
My 370 with a refurbished case(Duratex)
IMG_1219.jpeg
 

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