Yeah, I think mounting it on the bevel would complicate setup -- adjusting intonation would also change string height.
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Winter Build Off 2019 - Kubickenbacker
- Thread starter rojo412
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- Apr 18, 2008
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Well, the theme is "OVERCOMPLICATED", so that would certainly do the trick.
But you do make a good point. While it's not impossible to make that work, it would add some trickery that is less "sensible" overcomplication (like brass inserts, drop A, etc) and more "difficult" overcomplication (dual truss rods, a bridge that doesn't intonate well, 2 output jacks, etc).
What now happens is I have to do the bevel and make that look uniform, while still maintaining a flat shelf for the bridge to sit on. If that isn't complicated, I don't know what is.
But hey... thanks for the reminder.
But you do make a good point. While it's not impossible to make that work, it would add some trickery that is less "sensible" overcomplication (like brass inserts, drop A, etc) and more "difficult" overcomplication (dual truss rods, a bridge that doesn't intonate well, 2 output jacks, etc).
What now happens is I have to do the bevel and make that look uniform, while still maintaining a flat shelf for the bridge to sit on. If that isn't complicated, I don't know what is.
But hey... thanks for the reminder.
My suggestion for maintaining flat shelf:
Make a plate that the bridge mounts to, route out for the plate to drop into, then rout the bevel. Overcomplicated enough? (though simpler than trying to maintain the shelf within the bevel)
Make a plate that the bridge mounts to, route out for the plate to drop into, then rout the bevel. Overcomplicated enough? (though simpler than trying to maintain the shelf within the bevel)
If the plate were to be made out of metal, that may be a bit heavy for the depth this would require.
But it will be solid color when it's done, so a wood plate would work too.
And there will be metal in there anyway for the bridge to mount atop, so it could even be a wood plate with a metal top.
Time to stare blankly again and think about this. Gotta let the coffee kick in first though.
But it will be solid color when it's done, so a wood plate would work too.
And there will be metal in there anyway for the bridge to mount atop, so it could even be a wood plate with a metal top.
Time to stare blankly again and think about this. Gotta let the coffee kick in first though.
Hey... it would match the headstock area, so it's not out of the question.
- Jun 30, 2010
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- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
@JIO did a short-scale 5-er recently where he made a plateau for the bridge and beveled around it. I wonder if the would work here?
(I couldn't find the thread which is why I tagged him in this one)
lightweight short-scale 5'r
- Jun 30, 2010
- 49,610
- 222,095
- Disclosures
- musician/artist/owner - Gildaxe
That's true... but there are ways to make it more affordable.
Plus, it's the splurge on this build. The pickups and pre were a steal used, the stuff I'm building from metal and wood is relatively inexpensive at cost, so it's the majority of the investment in this build.
I was actually planning on using the same one in a personal custom build some day, so this is a nice "prototype" test of its abilities.
Plus, it's the splurge on this build. The pickups and pre were a steal used, the stuff I'm building from metal and wood is relatively inexpensive at cost, so it's the majority of the investment in this build.
I was actually planning on using the same one in a personal custom build some day, so this is a nice "prototype" test of its abilities.
Late day progress!
Plotted the area for the bridge and the tuner cove. Since I was sans cove bit, I ran to Lowes and snagged one, added the guide bearing from another 1/2" bit and went to town. Then I plotted for the bridge support beam, hogged that out, drilled and tapped that and VOILA!
Does it all fit nicely?
YUP! Even has unnecessary hex bolts, ala Kubicki. And if you think 3 of them is fun, well... I have a lot more to do.
Tomorrow looks kinda booked, but Monday may be the day for all of the shaping. I'm gonna do a very tight shelf for that bridge, which should be difficult. But I'm into it!
Plotted the area for the bridge and the tuner cove. Since I was sans cove bit, I ran to Lowes and snagged one, added the guide bearing from another 1/2" bit and went to town. Then I plotted for the bridge support beam, hogged that out, drilled and tapped that and VOILA!
Does it all fit nicely?
YUP! Even has unnecessary hex bolts, ala Kubicki. And if you think 3 of them is fun, well... I have a lot more to do.
Tomorrow looks kinda booked, but Monday may be the day for all of the shaping. I'm gonna do a very tight shelf for that bridge, which should be difficult. But I'm into it!
So sculpting... the process that I both enjoy the most, as well as it gives me a fair amount of anxiety.
As was said, going around the "shelf" was a bit interesting. Since I didn't have the wherewithal to make a tilting-floating-supermagical router base, I just did the "draw lines and saw between them method.
Around the shelf, what I ended up dong was to clamp a straight-edge at the bridge line, then use the pull saw to cut right to the border. I hacked and chopped most of the chaff away with a coping saw, chisel, and utility knife. I then used some hand made sanding sticks to try and make the bevel as straight as I could in spots. And for the corner by the electronics area, I put some sandpaper on a long 1/4" drill bit and gently sanded out the line.
Since some of my tools are currently on a jobsite, I couldn't sand it to perfection just yet, but you get where this is going...
There's more work to be done, but I'm in a holding pattern (again) until I go grab my sander.
As was said, going around the "shelf" was a bit interesting. Since I didn't have the wherewithal to make a tilting-floating-supermagical router base, I just did the "draw lines and saw between them method.
Around the shelf, what I ended up dong was to clamp a straight-edge at the bridge line, then use the pull saw to cut right to the border. I hacked and chopped most of the chaff away with a coping saw, chisel, and utility knife. I then used some hand made sanding sticks to try and make the bevel as straight as I could in spots. And for the corner by the electronics area, I put some sandpaper on a long 1/4" drill bit and gently sanded out the line.
Since some of my tools are currently on a jobsite, I couldn't sand it to perfection just yet, but you get where this is going...
There's more work to be done, but I'm in a holding pattern (again) until I go grab my sander.
- Apr 18, 2008
- 16,015
- 1
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- Disclosures
- I'm highly opinionated and extremely self-assured
That's what I do as well. I sawed this to 1/8" off the final edge, and now comes lots of dust. Safe, safe dust.
