• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Wood choices and considerations

...peanut oil turns faster than canola/rapeseed oil does...
Maybe it's just me, but rapeseed oil scares me. ;) :roflmao:
...
They had a cart that was full of padauk at one point (missed it last time) and had 5 pieces left on it.
...
I'm mostly disappointed in you because you said you would forever refer to it as padookie. :laugh:
 
Maybe it's just me, but rapeseed oil scares me. ;) :roflmao:
I mean, that's what it's called in English and iirc most of the Latin languages. Wikipedia says: "The term 'rape' derives from the Latin word for turnip, rapa or rapum, cognate with the Greek word rhapys." The connotations aren't awesome but our ancestors have been calling it "rapeseed" for a few centuries now and that's what it's stuck with.

"Canola" is more or less a marketing term coined for the major oil-producing cultivars to take the edge off.

Anyway: However you call it it's still not great for wood finishing. I use it for seasoning my cast iron pans but that's because I can heat them up over 500°F, where the oil polymerizes. Can't do that with wood.
 
Here's an idle thought: Would tree roots make good fingerboard wood? Assume for the sake of argument that it might be possible to find a piece straight and wide enough to work. (I know that in this real world it's extremely unlikely.)

After the Nth time running over a particular tree root with the lawn mower, I got to wondering whether tree roots might have useful material properties distinct from trunk wood.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mrperkolator
Here's an idle thought: Would tree roots make good fingerboard wood? Assume for the sake of argument that it might be possible to find a piece straight and wide enough to work. (I know that in this real world it's extremely unlikely.)

After the Nth time running over a particular tree root with the lawn mower, I got to wondering whether tree roots might have useful material properties distinct from trunk wood.
I'll see if I can get a piece out of this. IMG_8280.JPG
 
Here's an idle thought: Would tree roots make good fingerboard wood? Assume for the sake of argument that it might be possible to find a piece straight and wide enough to work. (I know that in this real world it's extremely unlikely.)

After the Nth time running over a particular tree root with the lawn mower, I got to wondering whether tree roots might have useful material properties distinct from trunk wood.
The grain patterns are different. So the wood may be different from the above ground wood.
I have a club that was given to me in Africa a long time ago, after buying and drinking way too much with my guide and his friends. he said it was made from a root. The wood is crazy hard and dense and the grain is smooth. I do not know the parent tree.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mrperkolator
I was reading up on stock from a local wood mill, and found that the "lower" quality wood had more inclusions, holes, cracks, etc, but that this gave more "character." The "high grade wood had very little character in it, and was honestly a bit bland.... so if one were to go with the "mid" grade (reduce issues with both extremes), how would you guys approach filling the cracks/inclusions when prepping the body blank?

In the past I had found (but not used successfully...long story) solarez and liked the super hard finish it gave. Any ideas on how to fill these holes and use a glossy finish? Open to suggestions...
 
  • Like
Reactions: Beej
I had a few inclusions in the last cherry blank I made. I filled the larger one with epoxy and the smaller ones with leftover epoxy and CA after I used all the epoxy I mixed. Use the finish of your choice. I’ve never had issues with TruOil, Createx or Varathane Ultimate sticking to CA or epoxy. This body will be a solid color so I wasn’t worried about appearance but epoxy can be tinted.
 
barn_wood_p_bass.jpg

Barn wood P bass from a dude in Akron Ohio. Website laysguitar.com gave me an error when I tried to get more details. Mostly I wanted to bump this thread and see what yall are up to. And this is pretty cool..... Although to make it extra I'd have a black leather pickguard made. Just to be different.
 
  • Like
Reactions: boxerrider and 1n3
@Beej what do you think of this video?

Think it might work with an amber oil such as tung oil? I suppose you'd have to pick a particular oil that is ok with heat to melt down wax into it. Also, that guys breadboard butter has been used by one of the guys in the Short Scale club here on TB, and he says it works great. It's inexpensive compared to some finishes.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Beej
I’ve started planning my next build.
It will be acoustic, so tone wood counts
The wood I have for the top is spruce from Pennsylvania and the neck, back and sides will be American sycamore. As far as the fingerboard goes, I am undecided. Likely some form of hard maple, but I am open to suggestions. I need a thick long board for this concept and Ebony would be great, but it’s expensive and hard to find at the dimensions I would like, bloodwood is also a possibility and will age to a nice dark brown. I’d really like to try Osage orange or persimmon if anyone knows of a good source for a straight, 1” x 4” x 36” or so or 25mm x 100x 1000 give or take a few mm for the civilized among us.
 
  • Like
Reactions: mrperkolator
@Beej what do you think of this video?

Think it might work with an amber oil such as tung oil? I suppose you'd have to pick a particular oil that is ok with heat to melt down wax into it. Also, that guys breadboard butter has been used by one of the guys in the Short Scale club here on TB, and he says it works great. It's inexpensive compared to some finishes.
IIRC @rudy4444 has used a similar finish on his necks?
 
  • Like
Reactions: mrperkolator
I’ve started planning my next build.
It will be acoustic, so tone wood counts
The wood I have for the top is spruce from Pennsylvania and the neck, back and sides will be American sycamore. As far as the fingerboard goes, I am undecided. Likely some form of hard maple, but I am open to suggestions. I need a thick long board for this concept and Ebony would be great, but it’s expensive and hard to find at the dimensions I would like, bloodwood is also a possibility and will age to a nice dark brown. I’d really like to try Osage orange or persimmon if anyone knows of a good source for a straight, 1” x 4” x 36” or so or 25mm x 100x 1000 give or take a few mm for the civilized among us.

If you're down in FL, is there any cool local hardwood? give it an extra FL flair.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1n3

Latest posts