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Eight Foderas Compared

The all have that Fodera richness and not clarity. Some of them sound too mid scooped for my personal taste. Some are extremely balanced. Others are very mid prominent. None of them have that “just right” Fodera sound that I love.

I hear the just right Fodera tone from alder / rosewood with Seymour Duncan Dual coils ala Sharay Reed.
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Curious what the percentage of bass players use rounds vs flats is.

When you see something from an online AI that is surprising, remember, it only tells you what it has read on the internet - it knows literally nothing beyond that. It may be spot on, it may be dead wrong. Most of the time, it'll be something in between.
That was my experience looking for a replacement for my 20 year old Nikon SB600 flash. Did a Google search, AI came back with a specific third party model with lots of details, so I bought it from B&H. Followed the manual to set it up, but it was a big pain in the rear. Called B&H, talked to one of the pro photo specialists. He immediately said that AI gathered info from ads that company puts online. He said my old SB600 is actually better.

Fodera Club Part XXVII

I have noticed the tendency of the finish cracking. I’ve not seen it on Sadowsky, MTD, or builders I’ve considered.
It is puzzling. And it is one reason I have not gone down the custom build path. The wait is another factor. I’m pretty content with the Standard Classic that I picked up for a great price used. Finish cracks included. ☺️
The finish checking started to become a problem around 10 years ago or so when Fodera switched to the ultra thin satin finish. My 2 older Foderas (a 1997 Anthony Jackson and a 1994 Monarch) have no issues with the finish. My 2023 Monarch Deluxe checked all over the head stock and my 2026 Imperial Elite shows some minor checking around the tone control knobs.

All of my Foderas are players, so eventually some finish checking is going to be the least of the cosmetic issues they have. However my main gripe is with the response from Fodera on this which usually amounts to "something, something, climate" and a half hearted apology.

One would think with it being such a common issue that they would address it in the build process, but yet here we are.

Installing A+B splitter into your guitar

That makes the experience you had even more baffling, because if you had a cord plugged into the second jack then you’d already be sending the sleeve to ground on that jack through whatever it is plugged into farther down the chain regardless of the state of the switch or having direct contact with internal grounds. Having multiple connections to the same internal ground doesn’t dilute output the same way driving multiple paths with your output signal might.
It baffled me as well, but the fact that the signal level was different is a tangible fact. Thinking about it, I think I thr first time around I wired the switch a bit differently and also may have had wired Add jack's ground not to Main jack, but to volume pot, but I don't see how it could have created such a difference.

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Which MM Stingray, they are all good looking!

Hello all.
Been thinking about getting a Stingray. I am thinking 4-string single H. No local shops have them, so will need to order online. There are so many cool Stingrays, it's almost criminal!

I mean, natural with black pickguard is a classic, and the black and maple, so cool and relatively neutral in a way. Then the 50th Molten gold is the wife's favourite. Costs a bit more but is limited in numbers and anniversary models have their own cool factor.

A bassist friend urges me to get a 2-band, like the 70's reissues. He loves the classic tones. I fear for a heavier instrument, and missing out on modern touches of the Special, like flatter radius, lighter weight, rosewood, revoiced preamp, cool sparkly colours and so on. Then there is the Pino signature, in fretted. Must be good right?
Darkrays and Commenford signature are not desirable to me, but still there are many cool colours.

What to do my friends? What to do.
I'd do #3.

Gibson Grabber/Ripper/G-3 club

Has anyone found a bridge replacement / upgrade that works on an original G3 without altering anything? Replacements are around $250 on ebay, I don't need it THAT much. The 2012 release uses a different bridge.

2012 uses a 3 point, which is their "standard" bridge across all bass models for most part.

Original G3 had the bentplate/string through body only option, & yeah aftermarket replacements are far & wide to find. like this one, https://reverb.com/item/75246456-gibson-grabber-g3-style-replacement-bridge-vintage-nickel-finish.

Otherwise, any other aftermarket bridge you'd need to drill new holes into the body to use it, since most are fender screw hole layout (5 screws for most, 3 screws for their MIA bridge types which allow string through body).
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Electric shock from my bass on stage â - looking for technical advice and prevention tips

Hi everyone,


I recently experienced an electric shock on stage while holding my bass, and I‘m looking for some technical insight from the community to figure out what went wrong and how to prevent it in the future.


Here is the setup:


  • Bass: 1994 Japanese-made Yamaha TRB (metal hardware/strings).
  • Cable: Premium Fender instrument cable.
  • DI Box: Passive DI box.
  • Signal Chain: Bass -> Cable -> Passive DI Box -> Analog Mixer / Stage Audio system.

What happened: A bandmate strummed the bass first, and it felt completely fine - no shock at all. But a moment later, when I grabbed the bass, it grabbed hold of me. I experienced a strong shock, and my hand locked up (tetanus effect) due to the AC current - I literally couldn’t let go of the strings. A bandmate quickly realized what was happening and pulled the cable out, which finally broke the circuit so I could release the bass. Even after the cable was unplugged, I could still feel a very mild tingling/buzzing lingering for about a minute.


Stage conditions I noticed: It was a small stage with a lot of tangled cables, and I noticed they were using regular household power strips instead of the heavy-duty, robust rubber distribution boxes ("distribution spiders") typically seen at larger festivals.


My questions for the electronics/tech experts here:


  1. Why didn't it shock my bandmate when he tested it, but it locked my hand up when I touched it? (Assume body contact/ground path differences?)
  2. Since the bass itself was not plugged into a wall outlet (only connected via instrument cable to the passive DI box and mixer), how did mains voltage get onto the strings? Was it likely a faulty mixer power supply, a ground loop, or a compromised DI box / poor stage power?
  3. What is the best gear to invest in to completely protect myself from this happening again on small stages (e.g., portable PRCD/GFCI units, line isolators like a Lehle P-ISO, etc.)?

Thanks in advance for any technical advice or gear recommendations! Stay safe out there.

Double Bass Removing threaded post from bridge foot.

yep! This work isn't easy and bridges are tricky. I know clients don't want to hear it all the time but get a new bridge. Yea it's expensive but worth it.
I’ve di@*ed around with enough bridges trying to make some other guy’s dislexic fllustercluck work that I often just bite the bullet and make a new bridge. Very little patience anymore.

Which MM Stingray, they are all good looking!

The Hot Honey makes for a very uniform looking bass so to speak, very cool, or warm :) . For myself, I threw a wrench into the ehh mix, and looked at an interview on the Scott's bass lessons youtube channel that Scott from SBL did 7 years ago with Scott Ball (VP) and Derek Brooks (Director of Artist relations) at Music man, and there Scott says they wanted the Special to be an ash instrument, and also "now that we've had all those years to sit back and think what is the best tonewood for the Stingray, it's definitely ash" (Derek). With this in mind i filtered searches on webstores, and it narrows the field a bit.

Thoughts on that?
I don’t know about tonewood but as far as appearance and weight goes, ash ticks all the boxes for me. My Stingray weighs 8.2lbs and is made of ash and to my ears, I generally only tend to buy instruments made of lightweight ash because I love the way they sound. Stingrays can be made out of Poplar, Basswood or even other woods and still sound incredible, however. It just comes down to personal preference

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