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NBD Peavey

I tried to buy a Foundation S a couple months ago. I don’t need another bass, so my offer and my effort were somewhat lackluster. The owners ad is still up on FB, marked “pending”.

I bought a Foundation new back in 1992. Played it for a good ten years. It was a really good bass. Not flashy, but well made in USA and good tone. The neck never moved in ten years. Not one adjustment.
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Has anyone ever used EMG pickups with an Alembic preamp, on an Alembic?

Wow! Just the finish with the cream pickups is amazing!

I am a long-time Alembic user - I have an Alembic Stanley Clarke and a 3 basses that have been Alembicized, one with a 4-string PJ set. One thing I will say - my PJ does not have a whole lot of output gain, but I have a bunch of different basses and find them to occupy a WIDE range - a '76 Ric 4001 that is really low output but that's part of the sound - a couple of Gibsons with INSANE gain - so I always have a compressor with input LED at the beginning of my effects chain so that I can match each instrument. There are plenty of boost pedals and/or preamps that you could use to get your Alembic up to where you want it. Though of course you may not be into effects!

One viewpoint is that an instrument of this caliber should have gain comparable to other more "standard" instruments, but another view recognizes that an Alembic is not a standard instrument, they have quirks but they also have an entire philosophy behind and in them. I am of the mind that Alembics should be left as Alembics - the pickups and electronics are such an important element in that. (Of course anyone can do what they want with their own instrument)

It looks like you have found a solution, at least for the time being. Remember too that, as an active instrument, having a pickup turned down below 10 doesn't change the sound, unlike a passive instrument. Of course, there is the possibility of increased noise if the signal to noise ratio is too low - I have been the victim of that! But hopefully you can introduce some gain after the instrument and let the bass become part of your voice.

How to make the jump

Hi. I currently play a 4-string and I play tabs.
I want to change to a 5-string and read music.
What's the best way to do that successfully?
I voted stick with 4 as you start to learn standard notation, at least for a while. The main line of reasoning is that there is comparatively little contemporary SN out there for contemporary music, which is where most 5-string bass music exists. If you want to learn to read, and ultimately sight-read, you will need access to as much music in standard notation as you can lay your hands on. Learning to read burns through material at quite a rate - add in specific sight-reading exercises that you rarely play more than a handful of times increases that burn rate. There are vast quantities of graded material available from classical literature for the 4-string in standard tuning.

Obviously anything written for 4 can be played on 5, and 5 offers a few additional fingering options, but for the most part the low B string is redundant.

Aria Pro II J-B Medium-Scale Bass?

I'm in my 60's (yeah I'm an old fart!) and unfortunately arthritis has begun in my fingers and it makes stretching 4 frets on a 34 inch scale bass both difficult and painful. As a result, I picked up a short scale Fender Mustang to noodle around on, and a 32 inch scale Ibanez Mezzo 5-string as well. I saw this bass on reverb and picked it up since I wanted a regular 32 inch scale 4-string. I love the unique single cut design and I don't have any sunburst's at all so it fits well into my collection.

My question does anyone have experience with these instruments in terms of tone and playability?
Corbomite anyone? I have to tell you that your avatar is totally awesome and funny at the same time. Sorry I can't give you any advice on that specific Aria Pro II bass. The only experience have with medium scale Aria Pro II basses are a pair of 1985 Explorer style ZZB Deluxes made in the Matsumoku factory in Japan, and they came with a type of P-Style soapbar pickup. These were kind of meh for me so I had some custom ones made for them. The necks are fast on mine with a 2.0 mm action of the E string at the 17th fret. According to my internet searches, the neck radius on mine is 12, flatter than your standard Fender.

Best wishes to you in finding the info you need. And kudos for the cool avatar!!

Double Bass Steel “Spirocore-like” high E string for double bass

Currently IMHO the string does not fit well to the next lower string soundwise.
I agree - the last one he made fit the set much better. A tiny bit thicker gauge made those fingerboard issues go away, too. I probably should scoot the bridge up a little bit, too, tbh.

I’ll make another demo when the new thicker one gets on there.

I’ll definitely try the mute for the open string- hadn’t considered that - thanks!

Am I seeing things ?

It is that dang ol' toll bridge that scares everyone from this area from going to your hood. ;)
There’s finally a new one going in, and we can’t wait to hear how much the toll is inevitably going up. I wrote a song when it went from a quarter to fifty cents many years ago, which got lots of local radio airplay and even a few cover versions. I still bust it out at open mics every once in a while.

Ken Smith CR5M

Agreed, CR = Crunch Resonator (citing the Ken's Corner video posted on page 2 of this thread 13:55-14:30)... I'm guessing the Chuck Rainey model is specifically a 6 string (necessarily a bolt-on?).
(Crunch meaning bolt-on? Resonator meaning more "reflections?" (in the Ken's Corner videos, he talks about the sound "reflecting" at all places where woods join together. So the bolt-on is just more of that. Not better or worse that neck throughs, just different, brighter.

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