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sears said:

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www.amazon.com

This is the best price I've seen. Please update the thread when the deal goes away.

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Grabbed mine the day this posted, for $179 before tax/shipping.

Swerve said:

Wait am I missing something, none of these are bass pedals. Are these people related to Sonicake? Lol.

This whole thread feels like an ad with bot replies.

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With the graphic and clean blend functions, there’s potential for them on bass. It all depends on if you like their flavors of drive/dirt. For instance, the TC Spark gets rave reviews here by many, but it did nothing for me.
As for these pedals, I’ll wait for any bass demos, then…they haven’t yet worked out their US distro, and of course there’s the other complications. But I’m intrigued by their layout.

Looks like low end asian

Pure joy!

I wanted to make a sort of mirror image to by Geddy Lee Jazz Bass with my Mustang. In these pictures the mods are:

Black Hipshot HB7 tuners
Black Gotoh 2-1-B Bridge
Black MusicLilly string guide
Black Pick Guard and Control cavity cover
Black Block Position markers vinyl stickers
Black Faux binding around the neck made with auto pinstripe tape

Being installed right now (in the shop)
Seymour Duncan Quarter Pounder P/J pickups
Tusq Bone nut
CTS pots:
Master Volume with push/pull switch between series and parallel
Concentric (stack) pot for bass and tone control (Top treble, bottom bass)
Switchcraft 3 position switch

J Wilson said:

You can turn a little amp up to 91/2, and well, see the first paragraph.

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Why don't you just make ten louder and make ten be the top number and make that a little louder?

“These go to 40.5.”

Chris Wolstenholme from Muse is playing Alusonic now.

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Obligatory

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Also, can someone who recommended the East-Pre show me exactly where to find that Pre with both characteristics? So far I only found 3 MM-Style Pre's with "been designed with characteristics very similar to the original MM Stingray? 2 Band EQ" and an added midsweep. But this is not what the original MM 3 band is doing!

To the OP: According to Video above, the 2 Band should be somewhat neutral with both knobs in the middle position.

While I generally do agree that adding EQ on top of EQ can be tricky, I would still opt for a good EQ-Pedal like the Empress-Para, Ibanez Pentatone or Boss EQ-200 since they give you enough options to model your tone the way you want it.

groovaholic said:

Several months ago, I was at a blues jam and plugged into the house rig; a Genz-Benz Shuttle 6.0 and a pair of gen 1 Fender Rumble 112 cabs.
It sounded great - and I knew that the cabs weren't the source of the "magic".

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The magical sound that you heard came from those cabinets - if that combination was "magical", the speakers were likely a BIG part of what you heard. It my be that that amp through different cbs would sound even better, but don' t immediately dismiss the cabinets' part in creating that sound that you loved.

One advantage to making baseball bats- I have maple and hickory shavings. I put some in a metal box in the grill,a d get the smoke, with easy cleanup.

keepod said:

Thanks, that’s really helpful. Mine is a G-serial 1987–88 PB-57 with three original tuners and one non-original replacement. Do you happen to know which late-’80s/early-’90s MIJ models definitely used the same tuner? PB-62, JB-62, JB-75, etc.?

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I don’t unfortunately. My intent was to point out my own experience to say that you might look into other MIJ tuners that might just happen to fit.

Many of my basses are “parts” basses, so I have tuners and other parts lying around. I realize others might not have spare tuners or other parts lying around.

S.I.T. Powerwound Nickel 45-125 are on my G&L M-2500. S.I.T. sells single strings, too.

Pics of the bass

Mr.Fingers said:

You know you can raise the entire bridge up and down, by poking a small hex wrench in the holes of the bridge post? On my offset Fenders, I use the saddles solely to set the radius, but the height is dictated by adjusting the entire bridge up & down. By raising the saddles too much, the adjustment screws start to point upwards, which is rather hurtful for the wrist.

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I believe the staytrem bridge simplifies things a bit, and ordered one for my VII Staytrem bridge for Bass VI | Staytrem

waver said:

Many good suggestions. I might as well add to the list:

I have the Aguilar 60 on my Fodera P. Very clear-sounding, especially with TI or Sadowsky Blue Label flats.

I changed the P pu in my Sandberg for a Novak PB Fat. Clear and fat! I really like it.

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Hi @waver I’m having trouble finding info on the Novak pb-fat. How do you find it compared to other “hot” or overwound type of pickups. I’m looking for some a bit beefier than standard but too mid focused. Not looking for huge output either. Thanks!

Judging by what I managed to achieve with mine, I’d say yes, definitely yes .. why the question?

I got sidetracked (as I often do) and pulled out one of the original bodies made from Jarrah (a really rich brown/purple eucalypt).

I had bought some binding and an appropriate router bit for the task, so last night after the kids went to bed, I had my first go at binding. The only CA glue I had on hand was a fairly thin viscosity, so there will be a lot of tidy up (note to self - get some thick CA glue next time), but overall, I’m happy enough with the result.



I’ll string this one up with flats and chuck some frets in the board. Notably, all the wood in the bass will be jarrah. I’m not exactly in love with it, but I’ve wanted to do a one-wood bass for ages, so this is it.

Slevage said:

IMO, none of the new small amps I currently own or have played through sound like a GK 150. They al sound “better”. More low end and volume available if you need it.
Not looking for more bass? Roll it off.
Don’t need the volume? Turn it down.

I love my Markbass 112 and my Elf 110.

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I’m on my third one, having sold the prior two off for ‘better’. Over the last decade or so the GK is the amp I have used when in bad sounding rooms or rooms I was unsure about, and it always delivered an acceptable tone. No, the tone is never great but it gets it done. That said, it is now over thirty years old and relatively heavy at 26#. The little Elf 110 cab and micro head sound better, lighter and I don’t worry about the magic smoke genie escaping.

michael_t said:

Stiffness/flexibility is a matter of personal perception. Many would agree La Bella LTF are not "wet noodles" like TI Jazz Flats. Besides, 45-105 rounds can be floppy noodles if they are round core, eg DR Sunbeams.

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Just so...

MovingPitchers said:

They feel much lower tension than my other set of Labella’s which have black silk ends at the end. Stiffer than my TI Jazz flats.

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I bought 2 sets of La Bella LTF4-A's several years ago - as in, shortly after La Bella introduced them. Yeah, that's just how they look. I was going to put them on my '73 Rick 4001, which was developing the neck problem that some older 4001's get, but never did. It eventually wound up wearing some other flats, instead. I eventually put the LTF's on my Custom Shop ('cause, lefty) '23 G&L Kiloton lined fretless bass. They feel great, and the tone is too die for. Even though they have less actual tension than TI Jazz Flats do, they feel - and act - like more normal flats, because they were manufactured to be like that. Low tension definitely does not mean "Floppy". The strings I eventually put on my Rick 4001? Dogal's JC106A "Jaco" CarbonSteel Flat wounds. You want really low tension? Try 5kg. of tension per string - according to the package. That's 44 pounds of tension per set. Are they "floppy"? Absolutely not. In fact, they feel - and sound - very similar to the Optima 4440 RB Flats I have on my '01 Rick 4003...

Bruce Johnson said:

This problem of a bass needing custom-length strings is a common thing, which sadly gets ignored by many builders.

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I've been guilty of this a time or two... It certainly can limit you to one or two string brands. Is it a builder issue or string maker issue?
Also, don't people give the taper a shot of fast CA and unwind anymore? That's what I've done in the past, when needed (the E, anyway).


Here's the list I use, now. Some sources list "winding length", others say "ball to taper/silk". Close enough?
Someday I might put it into excel (probably not) so I can sort by the various parameters, instead of scrolling for length, type, silk color, etc.

It would be nice to have a master list posted somewhere that can be updated as needed.

Lengths and colors - Sourced from all over:

Black Diamond Bass Strings:
Long Scale = 37.25” Winding length

Multi-colored silk or no silk.

Clear Tone Bass Strings:
Long Scale = 37.5" Ball to Taper

No silk.

Curt Mangan Bass Strings:
Extra Long Scale = 38.75” Wound length.
Long Scale = 36.75” Wound length.
Short Scale = 34.75” Wound length.

No silk.

D'Addario Bass Strings:
Short Scale = 32" Ball to Taper (or Silk)
Medium Scale = 34" Ball to Taper (or Silk)
Pro Steel Long Scale = 37.1" Ball to Taper (or Silk)
Super Long Scale = 38" Ball to Taper (or Silk)

Silk:
Dark Blue: Chromes, Flatwounds.
No silk: EXL, NYXL, and ProSteels, color-coded ball ends.

Dean Markley:
Long Scale = 37.25" Ball to Taper (or Silk)

Silk:
White /Silver: Blue Steels
Gold: SR2000

DR Bass Strings:
Lo Rider:
Long Scale = 37.75” Winding Length
High Beams:
Short Scale = 33” Ball to Taper (or Silk)
Long Scale = 37.75” Ball to Taper (or Silk)
Extra Long Scale - 40.5" Ball to Taper (or Silk)
Fat Beams, DDT:
"Old Long Scale" = 38” Ball to Taper

Silk:
Gold: Flats
Gold or no silk: Rounds

Dunlop Bass Strings:
Long Scale = 37.25" Ball to Taper

Silk:
Black.

Elixir Bass Strings:
Long Scale = 36.5" Ball to Taper
Extra Long Scale = 38" Ball to Taper

No silk.

Ernie Ball Bass Strings:
Long Scale = 37.25" Ball to Taper
Super Long Scale = 38.25" Ball to Taper

Silk:
Purple: Slinky Cobalt Flats.
Dark Blue: Stainless Steel Flats.

Everly Bass Strings:
Long Scale = 37.75" Ball to Taper

No silk.

Fender Bass Strings:
Short Scale = 32" Ball to Taper
Medium Scale = 34" Ball to Taper
Long Scale = 36.5" Ball to Taper

Silk:
Black: Roundwounds.
Green: Flatwounds.
No silk: Newer production roundwounds.

Fodera Bass Strings:
Long Scale = 37.5" Ball to Taper
Extra Long Scale = 39.25" Ball to Taper

Silk:
Dark Green.

GHS Bass Strings:
Short Scale = 32.75” Ball to Taper (or Silk)
Medium Scale = 35.5” Ball to Taper (or Silk)
(Old) Long Scale = 36.5" Ball to Taper (or Silk)
Universal Long Scale = 37.25" Ball to Taper (or Silk)
Long Scale Plus = 38" Ball to Taper (or Silk)
Super Steel = 38” Ball to taper (or Silk)

Silk:
Red: Boomers (Nickel-plated rounds).
Yellow: Short-scale Boomers (???)
Purple/Magenta: Precision Flats.
Blue: Brite Flat.

Ken Smith Bass Strings:
Short/Medium Scale = 34.5” Ball to Taper
Long Scale = 38" Ball to Silk
Extra Long Scale = 40" Ball to Silk
Some B strings "Medium Scale" option = 36.5" Ball to Silk

Silk:
Orange and Blue: Burners.
Purple:

La Bella Bass Strings:
Short Scale = 32" Ball to Silk
Medium Scale = 34" Ball to Silk
Long Scale = 37" Ball to Silk
Extra Long Scale = 38" Ball to Silk

Silk:
Purple: Olinto Signature flats.
Green, Red, or Black: Flats.

Harley Benton Bass Strings:
Long Scale Flats = 35.63” Ball to Silk
Long Scale Rounds = 36.85” Ball to Silk

Silk:
Red: Flat HQS
Light Blue: Light gauge 4-string Rounds
Orange: Medium Gauge 4-string Rounds
Red: 5 string Rounds

Hofner Beatle Bass Strings:
33.8” Ball to Silk

Silk:
Black or Green
Old: Lime green

MTD Bass Strings:
Long Scale = 37.25" Ball to Silk

Silk:
Yellow/Gold: SS Rounds
Silver/White: Nickel Rounds
Red/Black + Red ball wrap: Super Polished

Pyramid Bass Strings:
MultiScale: B = 39", E = 38.5”, A = 38”, D = 37”, G & C = no taper. Wound length.
Super Short Scale = 31.9” Wound length.
Short Scale = 34.35” (rounds), 33.27” (flats). Wound length.
Medium Scale = 36.22” (rounds), 34.65” (flats). Wound length.
Long Scale = 37.4” (rounds), 36.42” (flats). Wound length.
Super Long Scale = 39.37” (both). Wound length.

Silk:
Dark Green: Short Scale Flats
Red: Medium Scale Flats
Purple: Long Scale Flats
Black: Super Long Scale Flats

Rotosound Bass Strings:
Short Scale = 32" Ball to Silk
Medium Scale = 34" Ball to Silk
Long Scale = 37" Ball to Silk (or Taper)
Extra Long Scale = 39" Ball to Silk

Silk:
Red: Rotosound Swing Bass 66 and Jazz Bass 77.
Forest Green: Solo Bass 55.
Yellow / Gold: Tru Bass 88 Tapewound.
Light Blue: Short and medium-scale flatwound.
Multi-color: Nexus

Sadowsky Bass Strings:
Long Scale = 37" Ball to Silk
Extra Long Scale = 39" Ball to Silk

Silk:
Gray/Silver

SIT Bass Strings:
Long Scale = 37.25" Ball to Taper
Extra Long Scale = 38" Ball to Taper

Silk:
Now: Purple.
Previously: Black, then Light Blue.

Spector Bass Strings:
Long Scale = 38" Ball to Taper

Silk:
Dark gray.

Thomastik-Infeld Bass Strings:
Short Scale = 35.5" Ball to Silk
Long Scale = 37" Ball to Silk
Super Long Scale = 39.75" Ball to Silk

Silk:
Red, both ends.

Warwick Bass Strings:
Long Scale = 37.4”
Medium Scale = 35.4”

No Silk.

I’m a bit surprised they don’t push/advertise their upright bass strings as much. I also don't seem to see a lot of other upright bassists using them. (You’re one of the few I’ve seen @littlebun)

I’ve tried the Ron Carter tapewounds before, but didn’t like them. I’ve considered trying the 7720’s or even the RC610’s but there’s virtually no information about them online, other than the generic marketing stuff.

I’m a huge fan of their flatwound electric bass strings and really wish they had more to offer as far as upright strings.

I recently replaced the stock pickup on my squire Bronco bass with a Seymour Duncan SCPB-3 Quarter Pound. When I have the tone all the way open (highs) I have plenty of volume. The pickup is super hot. But when I roll the tone off I lose literally almost all of my volume. Could that be a capacitor or potentiometer issue on the standard tone pot?

The mod shop is just a way to grab a few dollars more for some cosmetic "upgrades".

Never2Late said:

@pcake is your 7 pound Bronco made in China or Indonesia?

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indonesia.

That I have purchased (and then sold): EBMM Stingray. I just could never mesh with it. Couldn't get the tone I wanted and never got used to the neck.

That I have played: Rickenbacker 4001. Wanted to love it. They sound so freaking good. For me, ergonomic nightmare. Couldn't pick comfortably with fingers or a pick, hated the way the body felt, and the neck didn't work for me. Was very disappointed.

Both of these are classic, awesome basses and just shows everyone is different.