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Tube Preamp/DI Sound Samples — Noble, Oracle, P-15, Super Stack, REDDI, Tonecraft, Jule...

It arrived… so far so good! I haven’t had the full size one for a while, but I don’t notice that this one sounds much different (as all of you have mentioned). Sonically, for me, I like it more than the LUCE. I’ve got a couple of bigger shows this week I’ll use it on.

was Jamerson using the back of his finger?

I know this thread is getting a little old, but I happened across an old Jamerson interview today (by total coincidence) where James Jamerson himself clarifies everything for us, in a question that is asked so perfectly...

"James Jr. told me that you never used any other fingers on your right hand, no matter how complex the passage was. It’s hard to believe that you could execute a very technical bass part like "Bernadette" and pull it off so cleanly with just one finger.

That’s why they called that finger "The Hook." This first finger of mine would be dancin’ around pretty good on my bass when I was in the mood. If Wes Montgomery was playing all that fast stuff with just his thumb, why couldn’t I do the same thing with just my index finger? But see, I didn’t do it for show. I did it for the sound-always the sound."

Link: An Amazing 'Interview' With James Jamerson A MUST SEE!
I think of it it like a drummer playing 16ths on a hi-hat. One hand vs two hands feels completely different. There’s a video of Jamerson playing with Marvin Gaye somewhere and Jamerson’s right hand is sooo relaxed. Gotta be the key.
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Dougie Thomson fans?

Does anyone else dig his playing? And does anyone happen to know what bass(es) and amp(s) he used for the big hit period of Supertramp, basically centered around Breakfast in America?
Does anyone else dig his playing? And does anyone happen to know what bass(es) and amp(s) he used for the big hit period of Supertramp, basically centered around Breakfast in America?
Early years he used a Ric. The breakout period he played a 76 Stingray. He also played a frettless Jazz. Later years he plays G&L and Yamaha.
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Trickfish Bullhead 3k or Berg HP Ultra?

Don't leave us hangin' ... !

I'd think that would sound great with either acoustic instruments or electric!
Good catch! Yes, I currently play mostly in two bands, one of which is mostly electric and one of which is mostly acoustic (upright and ABG), so good catch on the two rather different preamp pedals on top! I will say that the IP cabs are like the ultimate blank slate, where Jim has really dialed them in to reproduce exactly what's going in. So, with an acoustic instrument, it very, very much sounds like that acoustic instrument, only louder. As opposed to sounding like a blend of an acoustic and an electric bass, which honestly, many amps can sound like.

MYSTERY BASS ID

Sourcing material alone is going to be hard And I would very much like to try this thing out. I am currently waiting to hear back from guyker apparently this thing has between fourteen and fifteen millimeter spacing, which it would be easy to find a bridge for if it wasn't headless. And if i'm gonna go for chinese aftermarket. I would prefer to go with them because i've at least used some of their parts in the past. If anyone has any suggestions or single string bridge options that would achieve at least fifteen millimeters or less.

Caution...NBD+NCDx2= Mustang American Classic Teardrop Drool Content

The sherwood fender
The main thing to check out is whether the bridge is misaligned over the string through holes. The first run was off by a very small amount. Plenty of people still bought them and didn’t care, but that’s the source of the complaints for the only Mustang bass currently being made in California. I don’t know if they have fixed it on later runs. But there are also people who seem to love them.
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Concentric Jazz with a Master Volume

I'm not gonna say, "You NEED to buy THIS gadget!", but it might serve as a bit of inspiration. 🤔


As of now, I've installed one into two, different basses and I've grown rather fond of their straightforward simplicity. I just choose a setting…neck, both, bridge with series and parallel…and go from there.

“Hip Hop” synth pedal? (a la E40/ Zapp)

future impact v4 vip on the way! i am not sure how to upgrade to the 4.51 yet, but i guess ill cross that bridge when it gets here…

thank you all so much! greatly appreciated!
FI firmware updates are pretty easy these days IMO as long as you have a MIDI in/out interface with your computer, but as mentioned if bought from Panda MIDI it’ll come with the newest firmware already loaded
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G&L L2000 Setup - Fret buzz - I followed user manual

I got a G&L L2000 Tribute a couple weeks ago, and I noticed right away that it had super low action. It made quite a lot of fret buzz when fretting the D string mostly, on the 2-4th frets. If I hit the A and G string just a bit harder than neutral it will sometimes happen on those string as well. However on the D string I can't adjust my playing style to eliminate fret buzz without going quiet.

The neck doesn't appear warped in any way.

I decided to follow the G&L user manual and set up my G&L L2000 the other day, but there's still quite a lot of fret buzz, more than I'd be comfortable with normally with my technique. The D string still has the worst of it.

So long story short :

1. Fret buzz, mostly on the D string in the 2-4th frets
2. I did a G&L Spec Setup
3. It didn't fix the problem

My understanding is the following :

1. It's not the nut -> Open strings don't buzz
2. It might be there isn't enough relief -> I measured and I'm in spec but on the shorter side
3. I could set the action higher -> The action is about where I want it though, but it's lower than Fender specs which is what I normally play
4. Lots of other people seem to have problems with L2000's buzzing

What do you guys think I could do to set this up better? I can play a bit lighter to reduce fret buzz but the technique changes between the D string and the others to do so.

My thoughts are to try the following :

1. Heavier gauge strings
2. Raise the D string a bit more, but also raise action to be closer to Fender specs like my other basses
3. Add relief to the neck

Would I be a candidate to get a Fret leveling? I don't want to take the bass back quite yet because well, I'm not convinced it's even set up properly. It should still be under warranty though.
Be a darling and upload the manual! G&L is as dead as Leo and George, and so is their website! Don't sell it on EBay like a chud, share with those privileged enough to have grabbed them while they were alive. Pretty Please!

Fender (and Squier) wide range humbucker - what's going on under there?

So I finally took my Mike Kerr bass apart and looked at what's going on with the Neck WR Humbucker. It was wired in series and measured over 20K DCR. It was wired with 4 conductor wiring so I was able to split the Red and White wires. Each coil measured 12K DCR exactly.

So I decided to actually wire it in parallel instead of series and it now sounds much more like a normal neck pickup to me, even if it isn't "correct"

Also: not sure if this got linked anywhere in this thread, but I found this article that shows the inside of the pickups
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Help identifying strings

A possible solution to the mystery...
I just bought a set of Gibson flat wound 45-100 short scale strings from a local store.
  • The silks on the new stings are identical to those on the installed strings.
  • The length from ball end to silks on winding end is ~31.25" for all 4 new strings
  • The length from ball end to silks on winding end is ~31.25" for the installed E, A, and D. The length on the installed G is ~35.5'.
  • On both sets of strings E and D have gold ball ends: A and G have silver ball ends.
The installed G string being from a long scale set of Gibson flats seems to be a strong possibility considering that based on some limited research Gibson uses the same color silks on both long and short scale flats.
Sounds like you just solved the mystery. One curious thing about the installed G being 35.5" in winding length (ball end to silk) is that's the same winding length as the TI's "short scale" (as in the G in JF324 set).

Optima 4440.L RB Flatwounds on Rickenbacker 4001

Hi all,

Recently I have just installed a brand new set of Optima RB flats on my Rickenbacker 4001 and noticed the E string being particularly dull compared to the rest of the set.
I know on their website they state the E string is meant to sound darker and softer in comparison to the other strings but for those who have experience with these strings, is the difference meant to be this drastic?
I find the E string sounds very muted and almost lacks in volume and sustain to the rest and whilst they have more bite and attack to them. I was wandering if this is what they are meant to sound like or if the low string will sound better with time? Or by chance have I just received a dead E string?

All my other basses have Dunlop flats on them so maybe I'm just not used to this style of low muffled thud on my E string but I thought I would check with others experiences before I write these off.

Thanks
I've had a set of RBs on my '73 4001 for a year now. They sound pretty consistent in my opinion. They are very old school thud and thump. more dead sounding than any flatwound i've tried, and i've tried a lot of them, but it took a few months. The RBs are really thunderous on a Ric, lots of low end but not muddy at all. It just takes some time.
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MarkBass small size, huge sound

Have any of you who use a separate head experienced issues with the head? If so, do you keep the head on the speaker or off?
The only issue I had was a 1.5Y layoff because my band leaders were obsessed with Covid-19 and so the amp sat. The capacitors got a little "dry" I think, and it had some issues with being its normal self in power output. But, after being 'on' for a half hour or so it has been fine ever since, and that was a few years ago as you'd expect.

Meanwhile I had covid-19 five times in all, fully vaccinated. That's another story but I have regrets.

Any thoughts about Mastering.com

My book arrived earlier this week and I finally read through it. There is some good information in it, but the use cases are very specific to a traditional guitar-bass-drums-vocals recording. I would have preferred the info and tips were more general, but I get that they couldn't cover all of those bases. The EQ, compression and limiting sections are really well-explained, so I'll definitely use those.

All that said, some of what is in this book is stuff I figured out through trial and error on my own. Digital recording lends itself to being able to do that quickly. Take that how you want. And I didn't access the 30-day trial courses.

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