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Wooden pickup covers?

I get thin vaneers of maple at Woodcraft. They come as sheets in a bag more than long enough to do neck through designs. They also make great acoustic saddle shims. You can dye them to any color you like.

Can you show a pic of it?

Awesome detail ring in the truss rod slot!

Any updates?

The EU even has laws on how straight your tree trunks have to be :***: ... and I thought it was bad here in Massachusetts. I'm so happy to be moving back to Tennessee tomorrow!.

Sorry, the pics aren't so good. The finish on the fingerboard is CA glue. 14 coats went on, then sanded with 320 on a block, then I went up through the micro-mesh pads until it had a mirror shine. Like I said, the pics suck, but in the pic of just the fingerboard, the 2 bar lights reflected in...

After you shield the cavities and the pickguard, leave a strip of shielding coming out of the cavity and over to a screw hole. Make a mirror on the pickguard. When you screw that screw in, it will close the cage and make it work way better.

I would go ahead and shield the entire cavity. The more complete a Faraday Cage is, the better it will work. Shielding is basically a Faraday Cage. In terms of soldering a lead from the copper to a ground, I dont worry about it. I do shield the pickup cavities and run a ground from there to...

no

I haven't done a refret with it, but I have done a fret dress level and crown on them before. I thought they worked fine. They take a triangle file crown and polish quite well.

HAHA. I did this one too, but backwards. I was drilling the hole from the P pickup cavity to the control cavity. The exit hole was only about a half inch away from being in the control cavity, heh. Guess where I decided to put the batter box ;)

HAHA. That was my first ever mistake in guitar building. I was routing a thinline tele for binding after I drilled the output jack hole. Anyone that has done it knows what it looks like. A nice even binding channel then BLAMO... a huge route above said jack hole. I had to scrap the whole binding...

$450 sounds like about what it will cost. When you pull frets, there is a zig-zag pattern in the slot from where the fret tang barbs. It takes time to get those filled in not to mention cutting filler lines, sanding, and finishing the fingerboard. If I had to take it to someone in New York, I...

I teach at and own the Guitar Repair Institute.

I didnt read through the whole thread. I just wanted to chime in. Sorry if this has been stated. If you dont wont them to come back, walk within eye sight, snap a picture of the license plate with the brightest flash you can find, then walk off. If they don't feel like it is a safe place to...

My thoughts exactly.

I still have to do that bass I am working on. I meant to do it today, but had the enjoyment of spending my day at the hospital. I'll get to it either tomorrow or Sunday and to a pictorial for you.

I use Hot Stuff CA (super) glue. It's what we used in the Gibson Custom Shop.

I don't use much from stew mac. Most of their stuff is way over priced. The things I do use are items like the guaged nut files. I like the way they cut and I dig the rubber handle. i have a set of the ibanez files too, but I prefer the stew mac. I also use their nut slot seating files in repair...

Heh, no. I don't use hide glue on any part of an electric instrument. I use it daily in my shop for bridge reglues and neck resets, though.

I find that with a truly intermittent pot the problem is usually that the nut holding the pot has come loose a bit letting the pot spin . One lugs on the pot touch the wall of the control cavity which is usually painted with shielding paint thus grounding out the signal.

I tried acetone/titebond once and it gave loose after about 6 months. Ever since then I've used 2 part epoxy. There is not much as professionally embarrassing as a customer calling you to say his fingerboard is falling off.

You can pretty much guaranty that if he recommends a product, www.stewmac.com is selling it

I never string up a bass before I finish it.

I don't do it at all the way he describes in that article. I dont wear gloves and dont tape the neck. I get those blue paper shop towels, fold them into quarters, make a puddle of thin CA on the shop towel. Then I get 2 wipes before the glue in the towel sets off. I do that 15 times. Then put...

That's a great price for either a refret or a refinish, but for both... wow

I only use CA glue now. I used epoxy and a heat gun for my first 7 or 8, but CA glue goes on quick, is hard, lasts a long time, and is super easy in future repairs. All told, it takes me about 30 minutes from start to finish. That means from raw wood to a completely finished and dry...

Take it to another Tech, man. He is shimming in the neck pocket to get the strings closer to the board, but it's a half-assed kind of fix. If you end up not being able to find a tech in your area that can fix it, you can send it to me. I run the Guitar Repair Institute. It would be better for...

Here's how I do it: 1) bandsaw out the profile 2) safe-t-plane the thickness 3) rasp the volute to about the third fret 4) rasp the heel back a few inches (now you have a spaed heel and nut to 3rd fret) 5) connect the 2 shaped areas at either end rasping the middle and checking with a straight...

http://www.lmii.com/CartTwo/thirdproducts.asp?CategoryName=Specialty+Tools&NameProdHeader=Plate+Joining+Jig You use wax paper where ever you have a gluing surface come in contact with something else. The wax paper keeps it from sticking.

So if I go to the printer and ask for something that will hold up under nitro lacquer, they will know? What does fender use for their decals?

I've been an inlay man up to this point, but I hate doing inlay work. What do you guys use with the printed logos? Is there some way to do it on a home computer? What media do I print on that wont look bad on an instrument?

I don't use any dowels. Good joints, lots of clamps, and the right glue for the woods you are using has always worked fine for me. I use titebond for most all domestic nonresonous woods. Like for the maple/walnut/purpleheart neck through section, I used titebond, but to glue the cocobola...

I, too, am looking forward to seeing the finished product. I didn't like the wood selection scheme that the customer picked, but I am really starting to dig it.

"What constructive practices contribute to a great, tight B-string ?" Longer scale lengths make the low B feel tighter. Also as with boo-teek instrument builders, pickup builders, etc, there have also sprung up a small but dedicated group of people that make hand wound strings. You should...

These things are awesome. I have the flat blades and the round blades both in course and fine. They make neck shaping so much quicker. My method is bandsaw --> belt sander --> microplane --> orbital sander Never underestimate how much you can do on a belt sander or spindle sander. Just eat...

I don't like P style pickups, but it's what the customer wanted. I didn't realize I didn't post a headstock pic. I have to spend the next 4 days up in Maine, but I'll be back by Thursday. I'll take and post a pic of the headstock then. Thanks for the kind words, all.

Hi, all. I was pointed to this forum through a pickup builder page I am a member of. I wanted to share my current build with you all and see if you have any feed back. This bass is about 2 weeks from completion I just need to complete the finishing process, build the wooden pickup covers, and do...