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5 string fan fretted 36"-34" all in Wenge
- Thread starter Matteo Marziali
- Start date
Amazing..! This is turning out even better than I imagined from your drawings in the beginning... BTW: Can you share your source of flat sawn wenge? I've been looking after that all over Europe, but I can't seem to find it...
Thanks Morten! I buy this Wenge in Italy, from Claudio Sicilia http://facebook.com/claudiosicilia.tonewoods Invalid Link Removed, he has a lot of different wood, and accept custom order. Now there is a special offer: 10 bass exotic fretboard for only 150 euro.
...probably i will keep it round....
No update on the bass, but i got a bunch of fingerboards!
African Ebony, Cocobolo, Ziricote and Bocote.
Ziricote is impressive!
African Ebony, Cocobolo, Ziricote and Bocote.
Ziricote is impressive!
No time to work on that bass this week-end... 
I'm thinkng about put a switch to avoid battery drain when the jack is in, but i can't find any wiring on the net.
Suggestion???
I'm thinkng about put a switch to avoid battery drain when the jack is in, but i can't find any wiring on the net.
Suggestion???
I have wired a switch for exactly that application in this project... http://www.talkbass.com/threads/ritter-inspired-total-makeover.1076568/ There was a spare hole, so I installed a switch and wired it as a kill switch (mute) and ground lift (no battery drain with the jack in and the switch activated). I did not make a schematic, I just wired up the switch, but I can make a schematic and upload it for you...
A simple on/off toggle on the ground connection to the battery would do it. Just place it on the ground line between the jack and the battery ground.
Yes, that will do... In some cases it might lead to noise though with the positive signal still connected, but no ground connected. That's why I did both what you're suggesting and a signal mute. This will of course require a switch with two contact sets, but must of the toggle switches has that.
Yes, if you just want the switch to disconnect the battery you put it there - as suggested by abemo.
I'm away from my bass, but as soon as I get back home I will check the wiring, make a schematic and upload. But yes, your right: What you do is to interrupt the signal (white to the jack) and at the same time you connect the ''jack side of the interrupt'' to ground. This way you do not short the output of the preamp, and you connect the jack to ground preventing noise from an open signal wire that can otherwise act as an antenna picking up noise. Hard to explain in words, easy to show on a drawing... Will get back.
I'm away from my bass, but as soon as I get back home I will check the wiring, make a schematic and upload. But yes, your right: What you do is to interrupt the signal (white to the jack) and at the same time you connect the ''jack side of the interrupt'' to ground. This way you do not short the output of the preamp, and you connect the jack to ground preventing noise from an open signal wire that can otherwise act as an antenna picking up noise. Hard to explain in words, easy to show on a drawing... Will get back.
Little update: I put some small magnets on the TR cover and on the headstock
The cover is still rough...
The cover is still rough...
I glued the neck on the body, and I shaped the end of the fretboard and the neck heel.
For the fratboard i used chisels and scrapers, for the heel scrapers and 60 grit sandpaper
I removed the last frets form the low side of the fretboard because slapping should suond better in a 24 fretboard than in a 27...
The heel is asymmetrical in order to create more space for the thumb
Now I'm preparing the freatbord for fretting, I'm wet sanding it with boiled linseed from #400 to #1200
For the fratboard i used chisels and scrapers, for the heel scrapers and 60 grit sandpaper
I removed the last frets form the low side of the fretboard because slapping should suond better in a 24 fretboard than in a 27...
The heel is asymmetrical in order to create more space for the thumb
Now I'm preparing the freatbord for fretting, I'm wet sanding it with boiled linseed from #400 to #1200
...
It's alive!
I was able to put all the frets today, and it was a pleasure! This Wenge is awesome!
The neck is so stiff! And the fretboard "catch" the frets.
I assembly it for a test with only the neck PU (I need to route the bridge baseplate for the bridge PU...)
without the preamp and i tried it with headphone (it's night in Italy now
) but i can say: IT ROCKS!
Also the TR access works fine!
The only bad news is about the strings: E and A are brigther than the others
It's alive!
I was able to put all the frets today, and it was a pleasure! This Wenge is awesome!
The neck is so stiff! And the fretboard "catch" the frets.
I assembly it for a test with only the neck PU (I need to route the bridge baseplate for the bridge PU...)
without the preamp and i tried it with headphone (it's night in Italy now
) but i can say: IT ROCKS!Also the TR access works fine!
The only bad news is about the strings: E and A are brigther than the others
