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A little project

So, how would you rate that home Depot dust collection doohickie? Particularly with the spindle sander.
Works well so far, seems to do a good job separating everything. A little fine dust settles in the vac, but it is a very small amount. I think it is worth the price, and it is much less a pain to empty the bucket than to dismantle the shop vac. The better filter and bag make a big difference as well, it was basically blowing out dust before. The diffuser is also nice, the air exiting the vac isn’t so strong so it isn’t stirring things up so much.

Having said that, the sanders both create dust that exits the machines in other spots. I think for now I will mask up when using these tools extensively and when done exit the shop for a bit to let things settle. I have to look more into air filtration, I hear homemade box fan air filters can work well, and I also read they can be worthless. Maybe I’ll pick up an air particulate meter and get a real read in what each tool is putting in the air.

However, for the cost it is a deal, and I didn’t have any sawdust boogers after using this setup.
 
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Glued up a few more puzzle pieces, just the outside two left. Have to pick out a top and back.

This summer I started an archtop guitar, built the sides, neck blank, and top and back blanks. I am waiting to dive into the carving until I get a few days with no kids around, it will be my first go. The walnut and maple came from my local guy, and I got really lucky, this was some special stuff.
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The guitar plan I am working off of is an Epiphone Spartan, which just happened to be their only model made of walnut!

Anyway, the offcuts have that beautiful figure, but also splits and knots. But I can squeeze a dano top and back out of them!
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I have resawn 6” lumber on my little old craftsman bandsaw before, but 7” will be the biggest I have done. It will technically fit, fingers crossed!
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Have to get the kids moving, lunch and chores.

Oh, that dewalt job site saw is awesome. Of course I would love a giant sawstop or unisaw cabinet saw, but that isn’t realistic for many reasons. Mostly because even if I got a deal on the saw, I would have to make a new building around it. This folds up and rolls away, great for my tiny shop. It has a thin kerf blade that cuts really well, and the fence is really accurate once you dial it in. I had to adjust everything, the blade angle, fence angle, etc, but once it is set up it works really well. It is a universal motor, very loud, but besides that it is great.
 
Took the mighty #7 to the top and back, a sharp plane is very satisfying. Took a while for me to get consistent 90 degree surfaces, but it has become successful more often than not. One of these days I will make a shooting board setup, but I practiced a lot on pine scraps over the last few years and it has become more comfortable. I use the shavings to start up the wood stove in the early season, so I got lots of regular experience. Learning hand tools is a lot like learning an instrument.

All the body blank components are glued up. My old dehumidifier burned out, and I picked up this small unit used for $20, seems to do the job really well and it is a lot less noisy. Will see how it holds up!
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I know there was a baritone guitar, not sure if that is the same. I think that was the ‘tic tac’ sound they overdubbed over a regular bass for the old school country sound.
The baritone had a 29 or 30" (29.75 if the reissue is the same) scale so it just depends on what you string it with.
 
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Since I didn’t really plan on making this, it turns out finding dano parts is really hard! Who would have thought?

May have to get creative with the electronics. I have some thoughts, interesting dilemma though. I figured google would have a ton of parts floating around.

Anyone have a secret supplier?
 
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Since I didn’t really plan on making this, it turns out finding dano parts is really hard! Who would have thought?

May have to get creative with the electronics. I have some thoughts, interesting dilemma though. I figured google would have a ton of parts floating around.

Anyone have a secret supplier?
Guitar Fetish has pickups, depending on controls you want auto parts stores have the on/off/on switch for a series selector, for the bridge I'd get something modern rather then the vintage one piece rosewood, ace hardware has similar knobs to the danelectro style chicken heads.
 
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I just bought a guita
Since I didn’t really plan on making this, it turns out finding dano parts is really hard! Who would have thought?

May have to get creative with the electronics. I have some thoughts, interesting dilemma though. I figured google would have a ton of parts floating around.

Anyone have a secret supplier?
I just blundered across this bridge. DRB2 — JEFF SENN GUITARS Kind of ‘inspired by’, rather than a reproduction.
 
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I just bought a guita

I just blundered across this bridge. DRB2 — JEFF SENN GUITARS Kind of ‘inspired by’, rather than a reproduction.
That’s a cool design, no bass bridge unfortunately. Speaking of the bridge, with the design of the skeleton in this plan it looks like there is no support for the two front tilt screws outside the 1/8” Masonite. I think I have to add some supports to the center beam on the sides so there is something to screw into. Anyone have any insight into this?

For the bridge, although I know some are advising against it, I think I will try and fabricate an original style. If it doesn’t work well I can always retrofit, but I have the stock handy so it wouldn’t cost anything. Any dano bass bridge out there seems to be $100 and up, and none of them look worth that kind of money.

So tomorrow I will thin down the top and back, really excited to see how they come out.

Second question, regarding the mustang bass, as I understand it was never a true 30” scale. Using their existing fret cutting jig, you use a fender 34” scale starting at the 2nd fret, giving you just over 15 1/8” at the 12 fret. Does this sound right to those who have done this? I should be able to slot my mustang fingerboard tomorrow, and I have a 34” template.
 
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That’s a cool design, no bass bridge unfortunately. Speaking of the bridge, with the design of the skeleton in this plan it looks like there is no support for the two front tilt screws outside the 1/8” Masonite. I think I have to add some supports to the center beam on the sides so there is something to screw into. Anyone have any insight into this?

For the bridge, although I know some are advising against it, I think I will try and fabricate an original style. If it doesn’t work well I can always retrofit, but I have the stock handy so it wouldn’t cost anything. Any dano bass bridge out there seems to be $100 and up, and none of them look worth that kind of money.

So tomorrow I will thin down the top and back, really excited to see how they come out.

Second question, regarding the mustang bass, as I understand it was never a true 30” scale. Using their existing fret cutting jig, you use a fender 34” scale starting at the 2nd fret, giving you just over 15 1/8” at the 12 fret. Does this sound right to those who have done this? I should be able to slot my mustang fingerboard tomorrow, and I have a 34” template.


As long as your fret slotting template has enough slots at the dusty end that will definitely work. Gibson (or somebody’s) short scale was 30 1/2”. Use what you have.
 
Speaking of the bridge, with the design of the skeleton in this plan it looks like there is no support for the two front tilt screws outside the 1/8” Masonite. I think I have to add some supports to the center beam on the sides so there is something to screw into. Anyone have any insight into this?
For what it's worth, I read the plan the same way and see the same problem. The reissues have a fairly wide block under the bridge, giving all the screws somewhere to go.
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