So, how would you rate that home Depot dust collection doohickie? Particularly with the spindle sander.
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Works well so far, seems to do a good job separating everything. A little fine dust settles in the vac, but it is a very small amount. I think it is worth the price, and it is much less a pain to empty the bucket than to dismantle the shop vac. The better filter and bag make a big difference as well, it was basically blowing out dust before. The diffuser is also nice, the air exiting the vac isn’t so strong so it isn’t stirring things up so much.So, how would you rate that home Depot dust collection doohickie? Particularly with the spindle sander.
It is beautiful, that figure didn’t come out until I took a plane to it. Kind of stood back and said wow. I cut down the sides and neck blank from the same wood. Kind of nervous because I don’t want to screw it up that much more.I'm in love with your guitar blank.
I know there was a baritone guitar, not sure if that is the same. I think that was the ‘tic tac’ sound they overdubbed over a regular bass for the old school country sound.Very nice. I don’t remember if Dano originally made them, I know one of the later versions of the company did, but I’ve often thought a Longhorn Bass VI would be pretty cool.
The baritone had a 29 or 30" (29.75 if the reissue is the same) scale so it just depends on what you string it with.I know there was a baritone guitar, not sure if that is the same. I think that was the ‘tic tac’ sound they overdubbed over a regular bass for the old school country sound.
Guitar Fetish has pickups, depending on controls you want auto parts stores have the on/off/on switch for a series selector, for the bridge I'd get something modern rather then the vintage one piece rosewood, ace hardware has similar knobs to the danelectro style chicken heads.Since I didn’t really plan on making this, it turns out finding dano parts is really hard! Who would have thought?
May have to get creative with the electronics. I have some thoughts, interesting dilemma though. I figured google would have a ton of parts floating around.
Anyone have a secret supplier?
I just blundered across this bridge. DRB2 — JEFF SENN GUITARS Kind of ‘inspired by’, rather than a reproduction.Since I didn’t really plan on making this, it turns out finding dano parts is really hard! Who would have thought?
May have to get creative with the electronics. I have some thoughts, interesting dilemma though. I figured google would have a ton of parts floating around.
Anyone have a secret supplier?
That’s a cool design, no bass bridge unfortunately. Speaking of the bridge, with the design of the skeleton in this plan it looks like there is no support for the two front tilt screws outside the 1/8” Masonite. I think I have to add some supports to the center beam on the sides so there is something to screw into. Anyone have any insight into this?I just bought a guita
I just blundered across this bridge. DRB2 — JEFF SENN GUITARS Kind of ‘inspired by’, rather than a reproduction.
That’s a cool design, no bass bridge unfortunately. Speaking of the bridge, with the design of the skeleton in this plan it looks like there is no support for the two front tilt screws outside the 1/8” Masonite. I think I have to add some supports to the center beam on the sides so there is something to screw into. Anyone have any insight into this?
For the bridge, although I know some are advising against it, I think I will try and fabricate an original style. If it doesn’t work well I can always retrofit, but I have the stock handy so it wouldn’t cost anything. Any dano bass bridge out there seems to be $100 and up, and none of them look worth that kind of money.
So tomorrow I will thin down the top and back, really excited to see how they come out.
Second question, regarding the mustang bass, as I understand it was never a true 30” scale. Using their existing fret cutting jig, you use a fender 34” scale starting at the 2nd fret, giving you just over 15 1/8” at the 12 fret. Does this sound right to those who have done this? I should be able to slot my mustang fingerboard tomorrow, and I have a 34” template.
For what it's worth, I read the plan the same way and see the same problem. The reissues have a fairly wide block under the bridge, giving all the screws somewhere to go.Speaking of the bridge, with the design of the skeleton in this plan it looks like there is no support for the two front tilt screws outside the 1/8” Masonite. I think I have to add some supports to the center beam on the sides so there is something to screw into. Anyone have any insight into this?

Sweet, thanks! Glad we caught that before it was buttoned up!For what it's worth, I read the plan the same way and see the same problem. The reissues have a fairly wide block under the bridge, giving all the screws somewhere to go.
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Don't heed the naysayers!For the bridge, although I know some are advising against it, I think I will try and fabricate an original style.