• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

A local TB'er ripped me off!!

Status
Not open for further replies.
Are you a competent luthier? Can a competent luthier please chime in on this. I am not a pro but I have alot of experience with bolts and threads. Truss rods have a pretty fine thread, 1/4" is plenty to provide a secure connection.
Yes, perhaps someone who can be objective?

Don't discount the fact that I have many years (40) of playing under my belt, and adjusted many truss rods. I also happen to be a machinist for a large defense contractor. I know a little about threads.
 
On the contrary, I just found out that it's $250 to replace the truss rod, $325 to replace the neck. I'm not crazy about replacing whole neck, its a 2003 Korean, with matching color on the headstock. Believe me, bickering isn't good for my blood pressure!!
Where did you get the quote from? Has a local tech looked at it? Or is that just the price of a new trussrod, there is still the possibility that the trussrod could be repaired. If you haven't had a tech look at it yet then we are all just wasting our breath here.
Also give the seller a chance to respond to your PM he may work with you. Going out of your way to slander him isn't going to make him want to work with you.
 
Well after a couple of turns, the nut bottoms out and stops dead. I've never had a truss rod with such little travel. Have we not all always been advised that truss rods should be relatively easy to turn, and that if they seem excessively stiff or "frozen", not to force it?

You can buy some copper nut / shims to help with that. I have a few on my workbench. Here's a pic :

IMG_2267.JPG


You take the truss rod nut off, stack some washers around the rod, then tighten the nut back down.
 
  • Like
Reactions: GBassNorth
Where did you get the quote from? Has a local tech looked at it? Or is that just the price of a new trussrod, there is still the possibility that the trussrod could be repaired. If you haven't had a tech look at it yet then we are all just wasting our breath here.
Also give the seller a chance to respond to your PM he may work with you. Going out of your way to slander him isn't going to make him want to work with you.
I took it to The Guitar Factory in Wibter Park. There isn't s better place in town.
 
You can buy some copper nut / shims to help with that. I have a few on my workbench. Here's a pic :

View attachment 761589

You take the truss rod nut off, stack some washers around the rod, then tighten the nut back down.
One thing I am always cognizant of is my own limitations, and I endeavour to not risk taking a flying leap into something I'm unfamiliar with. Repairs at this low a level are beyond my experience, so I can't really speak on them.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Antisyzygy
Friend....when the nut bottoms out before a proper setup is achieved because the threads are broken, then that can't, in any way, be "adequate".

You can usually fix that by using some washers, not always, but usually. You take the nut off then stack the washers around the rod. Then, tighten the nut back down.

A competent guitar tech (not even a luthier) might be able to fix that without replacing the entire truss rod.

Although, I am unsure what kind of truss rod Laklands have. That works on many Fender style heel or neck rods. Fender actually sells a part for doing that so you can fix their old vintage guitar necks that have bowed a bunch.
 
I disagree sir. I first saw the bass here on this site. He was selling it here under the same pretenses as he was on Reverb. Shall I not leave feedback here, simply because I used Reverb's system I make the purchase, rather than just paying him straight with paypal?

Do you leave negative reviews on Amazon when receiving a damaged product from eBay?
 
Too often consumers get out the pitch forks and join the rabble without thinking this stuff through or putting themselves in the shoes of the other side.

No you are taking statements out of context and drawing a false conclusion.
Read my posts on this thread, I have been very fair to the seller, and have repeatedly said that the OP should have a local tech look at the bass and work with the seller privately to resolve the issue rather than the witch hunt that we have all witnessed. None of us were there, the picture is worthless at proving anything, and we will never know the truth, splitting the cost of the repair is only $125, neither the buyer or seller will lose there pants on this, it is the right thing to do.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Antisyzygy
Read my posts on this thread, I have been very fair to the seller, and have repeatedly said that the OP should have a local tech look at the bass and work with the seller privately to resolve the issue rather than the witch hunt that we have all witnessed. None of us were there, the picture is worthless at proving anything, and we will never know the truth, splitting the cost of the repair is only $125, neither the buyer or seller will lose there pants on this, it is the right thing to do.

Makes sense to me. :)
 
I'm a bit confused by all the posts in this thread but the money quote in the TB sale ad is "fully functional bass". Last I checked you need to have an intact truss rod to be fully functional. So that claim alone is enough to void the deal in my book.
Now the part I find confusing is...
Was the rod intact with nut installed when the buyer bought the bass? If yes, then the seller and buyer should split the repair cost since it's a matter of opinion on how functional that bass was with its current setup.
Or...
Was the rod already snapped and the nut just free spinning on the threads? If yes, then the seller should pay for the fix or provide a total refund since the truss was not functional.
Or...
Did the rod snap as the buyer was making an adjustment on it? If yes, then the buyer may completely own the bass and any repair costs. If the action was way too high (I assume way out of spec) and the buyer attempted to tighten the rod to create some back bow and he did it with the strings attached and under tension then it's the buyers fault the truss rod snapped (which may have been weakened by corrosion possibly hidden from the sellers view).
 
E, you've been critical of my position since you entered this conversation. One might think you're related to the seller in some way. Just sayin.
I am not...I am just trying to point out that your position is not absolute. Just because someone makes a claim that they believe they have been wronged does not make it so. You have not been able to prove that this issue is the seller's fault or that he knowingly scammed you, in my opinion of course. I realize I am in the minority here.

Like I said, it is a simple matter of who should be believed and I happen to be giving the seller the benefit of the doubt based on the fact that your details are not definitive.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.