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Ampeg SVT-II appreciation thread
- Thread starter i_got_a_mohawk
- Start date
Okay. Seems those have been the only choice they've carried that might actually fit.
I'm not sure what to recommend for proper fasteners. You could calculate the length by checking hole/thread depth of the handle, adding flange thickness, etc. The non-Pro handle uses either 8-32 or 10-32 machine screws, but I'd have to pull the amp out and get into the chassis to verify, and see what is used for head type (maybe just pan head phillips??).
Try asking fliptops?
I think they were originally bolts that were in there, but I could be wrong. I had to replace one of the screws/bolts on mine, but that was a long long time ago, I just remember that the head doesn't match up and it was a pretty long bugger!
I think they were originally bolts that were in there, but I could be wrong. I had to replace one of the screws/bolts on mine, but that was a long long time ago, I just remember that the head doesn't match up and it was a pretty long bugger!
I sent an email to fliptops months ago asking about the screws and got no response. I'll send another email and see if I can find something out. But I may have to just calculate the length and then bring one of the handles down to the local hardware shop and find the right screws and washers.
For new stock, probably the JJ's are your best bet.
As far as NOS or used tubes, I really liked the JAN Philips 12AX7WA or Sylvania 7025 (basically the same tube) in my (former) Demeter VTBP-201S.
Pretty good balanced tone with good solid bass, clear mids, and smooth treble.
Heard very good things about the ECC83 Telefunken and CV4004 Mullard.
On some multi-tubed preamps there is one particular tube that has the most effect on the perceived tone, not sure if the Ampeg is like this or not.
You might start with one replacement tube, try different sockets to see how it affects the tone, and work from there.
That's the right thing to do - take them with you, and the right thread size you'll be able to thread in by hand.
I'm guessing the handles are aluminum, rule for thread engagement is twice the diameter minimum, but I'm sure these are beyond that.
CM
What's Up All?
I've been reading this long-a$$ thread with some interest since I used to own an SVT II non-pro. Maybe some of you heard my tale-O-woe in other threads about my moment of weakness when I sold it...
Anyway, with a bit of sleuthing I found that Bovine Mind most likely acquired mine from this guy in Redwood City, CA that I sold mine to back in 2003 or 2004... I'm glad to know that a fellow TB'er and Bay Area player is rocking it - but I'll kill that guy if I ever see him again - I called him frequently and left him messages that I wanted it back if he would ever sell it.
Oh well
A question:
So you were about to touch on something that I'm very keen to know - which is the difference between the non-pro / pro versions. Yes yes, I know all about the difference in controls, and that the non-pro is grindy and aggressive out of the box. But, since the two have the same number of tubes, and same design otherwise, seems to me that there IS a combination of settings on the PRO which can voice it like the non-pro.
What are they?
Cheshire, did you ever complete your comparison? Ever try to cop the non-pro tone with your PRO?
Reasons are obvious - there are more PROs out there than the originals; I could run out today and find II pros at a good price. Non-pro version is harder to come by, and no offense - it has that mojo for that particular sound but is otherwise not very tonally diverse.
I do typically like to dial my amps in for what they do best, but also like to be able to get other sounds from them when the need arises.
Thanks guys, rock onward
CM
I've been reading this long-a$$ thread with some interest since I used to own an SVT II non-pro. Maybe some of you heard my tale-O-woe in other threads about my moment of weakness when I sold it...
Anyway, with a bit of sleuthing I found that Bovine Mind most likely acquired mine from this guy in Redwood City, CA that I sold mine to back in 2003 or 2004... I'm glad to know that a fellow TB'er and Bay Area player is rocking it - but I'll kill that guy if I ever see him again - I called him frequently and left him messages that I wanted it back if he would ever sell it.
Oh well
A question:
So you were about to touch on something that I'm very keen to know - which is the difference between the non-pro / pro versions. Yes yes, I know all about the difference in controls, and that the non-pro is grindy and aggressive out of the box. But, since the two have the same number of tubes, and same design otherwise, seems to me that there IS a combination of settings on the PRO which can voice it like the non-pro.
What are they?
Cheshire, did you ever complete your comparison? Ever try to cop the non-pro tone with your PRO?
Reasons are obvious - there are more PROs out there than the originals; I could run out today and find II pros at a good price. Non-pro version is harder to come by, and no offense - it has that mojo for that particular sound but is otherwise not very tonally diverse.
I do typically like to dial my amps in for what they do best, but also like to be able to get other sounds from them when the need arises.
Thanks guys, rock onward
CM
does anyone know the model number of the transformer of an SVT 2 (non-pro)? same as a regular SVT? available on fliptops.net?
Hey thombo.
If its any help, you might be able to make out the trany #'s of my 1992 SVT-II here in these pics: SVT-II pictures by Mybigpics - Photobucket
If its any help, you might be able to make out the trany #'s of my 1992 SVT-II here in these pics: SVT-II pictures by Mybigpics - Photobucket
Got me a 1991 SVT-II little over a week ago. for 750. just got retubed etc....But the damn power button has stopped working so I have to cut the power at the strip.
any advice on repair? Im not sure how to even get to it...
any advice on repair? Im not sure how to even get to it...
JD, Without taking the amp apart (just unplug it first) you could try spraying some Caigs Deoxit in around the top-outer edge of that rocker switch and then turn it on/off several times to help work it in. You can buy it at Radio shack. Don't spray in a whole bunch at once, try just a couple quick squirts at first. Then if that didn't fix it wait awhile for the excess to evaporate before trying again.
I just got an '89 SVT II today from Music Go Round and I am stoked! I had been looking at it on the website for several months and finally pulled the trigger on it. It's in great shape with the exception of the power tubes. They look really old and one of them is out.
Congrats, cool it might still have some valuable and great sounding GE power tubes in there. Did an good/honest amp tech condem that 1 tube or were you just kinda going by how brightly it glows?
If its the later, that might not mater or there could be a problem with the amp that's just affecting that 1 power tube.
Search out my (and timv my amp tech's) posts in this thread and you'll find some fairly common issues and remedies these amps can develop.
Thanks so much for the suggestion. I really haven't had time but I will be scouring this thread often. The one power tube in question doesn't glow at all. I have a tech who will check it out and it's just a matter of getting the head to him.
Cool, my SVT-II still had the original GE power tubes when I got it. My tech found a couple with issues so he just picked up a couple nos GE's and matched them all into 2 groups of 3. That was several years ago and the amps still working great today after lots of hard use.
So I don't have much experience with tube heads and I was told that power tubes should be replaced in matched pairs. If this is true, which pairs can be replaced?
