AudioKinesis Cabs Part VI...

[Passinwind]

I like it a lot. Just the stockers. I haven’t had it long enough to futz with it and it sounds great as is.

Way cool. I'm working through a DIY 100 watt tube amp build at the moment and got to try the power amp section through a luthier friend's TC112 on Saturday while we auditioned various preamps and basses into it. I haven't gotten around to wiring up the 4 ohm tap to try my own TC112AF yet, but I'm sure it'll be killin' as well.

 

[MarkA]

On the topic of tube amps with AK cabs, the Shaw B-150 sounds pretty killer through a 12" Hathor, Changeling, or both - I've gigged that amp, but not with that stack. Based on past experience, though, I think it'll go louder than most folks would expect from the sensitivity rating of the cabs and the amp's nominal 150 Watts.

Running sealed or with one port open - at least thus far at home.

 

[Emperor Elite]

Duke, wishing that you can quickly find a workable solution to your central sleep apnea. I have obstructive sleep apnea and have been lucky to find relief with a CPAP, but central sleep apnea is so much worse. There are a lot of people here on Talkbass that support you, my friend.

 

[Passinwind]

On the topic of tube amps with AK cabs, the Shaw B-150 sounds pretty killer through a 12" Hathor, Changeling, or both - I've gigged that amp, but not with that stack. Based on past experience, though, I think it'll go louder than most folks would expect from the sensitivity rating of the cabs and the amp's nominal 150 Watts.

Running sealed or with one port open - at least thus far at home.

We were using two plugs with a four port TC112 cab. One of the preamps had a variable HPF too, I think I’ll probably be including one in my amp build after hearing how well it worked.

 

[Slim Pickins]

If anyone is interested in selling a Hathor 12 ( not tall) please pm me. It looks like Duke is pretty backed up otherwise I’d just order a new one. These are my favorite bass speakers and I may not have tried all of them But I’ve certainly tried my share.

 

[mtsens1]

Hi, Anyone swap out 1203 corners so they stack more secure?

 

[MarkA]

Hi, Anyone swap out 1203 corners so they stack more secure?

My older, one-port Hathor 1203 has plastic corners with wide, diagonal ridges ("chevron," I think the oattern is called). The newer (three port) cabs have similar corners but the ridges are narrower and straight. I've considered replacing the corners on the older cab with the style used on the newer cabs so they interlock when stacked on their sides (as in your photo) but I'm not sure which style (diagonal or straight) would be more secure overall.

From what I can see on my phone-screen, it looks like you have the straight-ridge plastic corners. Are you looking for an alternative to those?

 

[mtsens1]

My older, one-port Hathor 1203 has plastic corners with wide, diagonal ridges ("chevron," I think the oattern is called). The newer (three port) cabs have similar corners but the ridges are narrower and straight. I've considered replacing the corners on the older cab with the style used on the newer cabs so they interlock when stacked on their sides (as in your photo) but I'm not sure which style (diagonal or straight) would be more secure overall.

From what I can see on my phone-screen, it looks like you have the straight-ridge plastic corners. Are you looking for an alternative to those?

While the corners look similar, they don't interlock well, especially in the pictured configuration, I'd like an amp wedge between the cab's so I get closer to ear level. Wont work as is , and yes, one is a single port and one a 3 port. I see some online, not sure they would work on 1203s, wanted to know if anyone has figured this out.

 

[MarkA]

While the corners look similar, they don't interlock well, especially in the pictured configuration, I'd like an amp wedge between the cab's so I get closer to ear level. Wont work as is , and yes, one is a single port and one a 3 port. I see some online, not sure they would work on 1203s, wanted to know if anyone has figured this out.

Okay, zooming in, I can see that your situation is similar to mine - chevron corners on the bottom cab and straight-ridge corners on the top. (Didn't notice before.) Those definitely won't interlock.

I am not 100 percent positive, but I'm pretty sure that those corners are available at Parts Express or Speaker Hardware. I want to say Penn Elcom plastic corners in a 3" size, but I'm not with my cabs at the moment.

I have an Ampwedge, but I've not tried running it between the cabs as you propose. I think it'd work with the cabs stacked vertically (and I used to do that with the Hathor and a MAS 110 sub), but not sure about on their sides, even with matching corners. Maybe - might depend on how far you tilt the top can back.

Adding rubber feet to the side of a cab might be a possibility (you'd want to make sure you didn't hit any internal components and used proper-depth screws), but it's worth it to try matching corners first.

 

[DukeLeJeune]

Okay, zooming in, I can see that your situation is similar to mine - chevron corners on the bottom cab and straight-ridge corners on the top. (Didn't notice before.) Those definitely won't interlock.

I am not 100 percent positive, but I'm pretty sure that those corners are available at Parts Express or Speaker Hardware. I want to say Penn Elcom plastic corners in a 3" size, but I'm not with my cabs at the moment.

The ridges interlock with the ridges better than the chevrons interlock with the chevrons. And if the ridges are off a bit, there's a little cross-piece that is often the culprit, and it can be whittled away. The ridged corners are Penn Elcons.

 

[MarkA]

The ridges interlock with the ridges better than the chevrons interlock with the chevrons. And if the ridges are off a bit, there's a little cross-piece that is often the culprit, and it can be whittled away. The ridged corners are Penn Elcons.

Thanks, Duke! I guess I'll be picking up a set of four ridged corners.

Re. tilting back the top cab on an Ampwedge (largeish rubber wedge), I wonder if one of those grippy rubber mats folks often use in tool and kitchen drawers might help.

Would there be any issue with putting rubber feet in the side of a cab if one wanted to?

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Thanks, Duke! I guess I'll be picking up a set of four ridged corners.

Re. tilting back the top cab on an Ampwedge (largeish rubber wedge), I wonder if one of those grippy rubber mats folks often use in tool and kitchen drawers might help.

Would there be any issue with putting rubber feet in the side of a cab if one wanted to?

Haven't had a chance to gig it yet, but digging the TC115 with the WD800.

 

[DukeLeJeune]

Would there be any issue with putting rubber feet in the side of a cab if one wanted to?

Nope.

I'd suggest using #8 screws instead of #6 screws, as the bigger threads are less likely to spin in the lightweight plywood. Still, be careful not to overtorque the screws. If you do get a spinner, patch the hole with wood glue and a wooden match stick, and trim it off flush after it dries overnight. Should be good for another go.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

Haven't had a chance to gig it yet, but digging the TC115 with the WD800.
View attachment 3973657

Forgot to point out it supplanted Mesa Subway 112/115 stack I'd been gigging for 4 years.
Seemingly very capable replacement

Thanks Duke.

 

[MarkA]

Forgot to point out it supplanted Mesa Subway 112/115 stack I'd been gigging for 4 years.
Seemingly very capable replacement

Thanks Duke.

Given your high praise of the Mesa stack, that's saying something. I'd be curious to hear comparative impressions with the stack and the TC115 (I am more familiar with the 12" Hathor cabs and, more recently, the 12" Changeling, though I've not gotten to play that one out).

Anyway, nice to see you here and digging the TC. Hope all is well on your end.

Nope.

I'd suggest using #8 screws instead of #6 screws, as the bigger threads are less likely to spin in the lightweight plywood. Still, be careful not to overtorque the screws. If you do get a spinner, patch the hole with wood glue and a wooden match stick, and trim it off flush after it dries overnight. Should be good for another go.

Thanks, Duke.

I've no immediate plans to do so, but if I take a stack out with the tube amp, I could see putting them on their sides - feet might be nice on the bottom cab, then (though maybe the corners - or a small rug - would be enough). Also asking re @mtsens1's proposed use with an Ampwedge. Good to know it can be done safely.

 

[/\/\3phist0]

@MarkA
This choice in no way diminishes my.
Massive respect for the subway line
I may yet prefer the Subway tone to this cab *shrug* until I can burn test I don't know!

The WD is so flexible EQ wise I doubt I will have a hard time dialling it in close.

Without a gigging situation it will be tough to compare directly for a while yet .
What I can say is the TC is a little less deep than the SW115. A little tighter (with the ports closed ) overall.
Ports open its depth is the 115s equal, but it loosens quite a bit, some of that tightness returns when 2 of the 4 ports are closed . The rear firing horn will be interesting live, we'll see!

The TC lacks that little sumthin that the SW112 brings to the party.

The TC is more accurate , brighter, and cleaner (the SW charm is in the character)

I don't expect the TC will achieve the sheer volume or "slam factor" that the SW does. Though I rarely needed it.

The main motivation for this change, was a reference monitor, a more "pa" like platform for my stage monitor as more and more often I find that live the FOH sounds so different from that tone I am hearing onstage.

As I now also own the PA that will be the FOH at many of our gigs this is expected to be a tool to "even" the playing field (soundscape).
My hope is that I'll be able to tailor the preamp, and HPF to send the house "my" preferred EQ/tone and let them cut what the need for "the mix"

It may fail as an experiment , were I able to keep both Mesa and the TC I would have. Financially and space wise not feasible .
I may get a Mesa cab again.
Likely a 2x15
I'd like a neo 8x8 designed by Andy though (I miss my SWR henry )
Hope this helps others.

 

[emjazz]

Great to see Duke pop back in. Hope you get the sleep figured out, Duke!

I have friends that still mention the TC112 that I used to have. I moved away from a less precise sound, but it's still the best cab that I've ever owned. Hope to pick up a hathor or changeling one day. I greatly prefer a paper cone to the large horn.

 

[Lowendtech]

Just a quick PSA for anyone wanting to swap out the older “chevron” style corners to the newer straight ribbed style, the screw holes aren’t in the exact same place between the two corners. I swapped mine out when I got my older style single port H1203 and I had to use Dukes hole filling method on (iirc) at least two out of the four screw holes for each of the new corners. Worked great and now I can stack it with my newer C112T.

 

[DukeLeJeune]

Just a quick PSA for anyone wanting to swap out the older “chevron” style corners to the newer straight ribbed style, the screw holes aren’t in the exact same place between the two corners. I swapped mine out when I got my older style single port H1203 and I had to use Dukes hole filling method on (iirc) at least two out of the four screw holes for each of the new corners. Worked great and now I can stack it with my newer C112T.

You're absolutely right about the screw holes not lining up. Sorry I forgot to mention that!!

 

[MarkA]

@MarkA
This choice in no way diminishes my.
Massive respect for the subway line
I may prefer the Subway tone to this can *shrug*
The WD is so flexible EQ wise I doubt I will have a hard time dialling it in close.

Without a gigging situation it will be tough to compare directly for a while yet .
What I can say is the TC is a little less deep than the SW115. A little tighter (with the ports closed ) overall.
Ports open its depth is the 115s equal, but it loosens quite a bit, some of that tightness returns when 2 of the 4 ports are closed . The rear firing horn will be interesting live, we'll see!

The TC lacks that little sumthin that the SW112 brings to the party.

The TC is more accurate , brighter, and cleaner (the SW charm is in the character)

I don't expect the TC will achieve the sheer volume or "slam factor" that the SW does. Though I rarely needed it.

The main motivation for this change, was a reference monitor, a more "pa" like platform for my stage monitor as more and more often I find that live the FOH sounds so different from that tone I am hearing onstage.

As I now also own the PA that will be the FOH at many of our gigs this is expected to be a tool to "even" the playing field (soundscape).
My hope is that I'll be able to tailor the preamp, and HPF to send the house "my" preferred EQ/tone and let them cut what the need for "the mix"

It may fail as an experiment , were I able to keep both Mesa and the TC I would have. Financially and space wise not feasible .
I may get a Mesa cab again.
Likely a 2x15
I'd like a neo 8x8 designed by Andy though (I miss my SWR henry )
Hope this helps others.

No dis for your Mesa stack intended or inferred. I know you dig that combo (though it doesn't seem like four years since they've come out - time does indeed march on). I've also sold rigs and instruments I really liked that just weren't what I needed at the time.

Your approach makes sense. Many ways to approach stage vs. house sound - ultimately, whatever works for you is valid. I think that I've tended to split the difference between "typical" bass cab coloration (whatever that might be) and the "PA like" approach you mention. At least that's how I hear the cabs I've favored (Hathor 1203 and MAS 112) over the last several years. I could see myself taking the more accurate, "PA-like" approach, too (and have flirted with it in the past), under the right circumstances.

In any case, I wish you a successful experiment and a safe and happy return to gigging when it happens!