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AudioKinesis Cabs Part VI...
- Thread starter Thor
- Start date
If it's anything like my TC v1, one of the switches is an on/off for the horn. Up for on, down for off.
The other one changes the horn between full range and a more gentle treble contour. Up for full on, down for the slightly more chilled out treble.
Okay thanks. So top switch defeats the horn and bottom switch affects what the horn does? I need to pick up a Speakon cable before I can crank it up for a listen.
Give it a listen and see what they do. Cutting the horn entirely will be the more drastic tonal change. And, if the horn is switched off, the other switch won't make a difference, of course.
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,069
- 46,010
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
Give it a listen and see what they do. Cutting the horn entirely will be the more drastic tonal change. And, if the horn is switched off, the other switch won't make a difference, of course.
IIRC he changed away from that horn kill format to a mid voicing switch instead at v2 or v3. In any case, if it is a horn kill like on my v1 cab it'll be readily apparent.
+1 to this; I have a Birdhaus 48, not a TC, but having the plugs both out vs both in reeeeally changes the low end response, to my ear, and that’s with a four-string P bass and only 210 watts driving it. In that scenario I like the looser, fuller lows (although it still feels “fast” to me) of running both ports unplugged. Very much worth experimenting with different port pluggage configurations.
Passinwind
I know nothing.
- Dec 3, 2003
- 23,069
- 46,010
- Disclosures
- Designer/Toaster Tech @ Passinwind Electronics
@pisces_bass :
Here's the description Duke sent me a couple of years ago for what seems to have now ended up being v4, at the time it was a one-off for my friend's NAMM booth where we also had one of my DIY amps:
"The lower switch, in the DOWN position, smooths out a 4 dB bump at the top end of the woofer, ballpark 1.8 kHz. But when it's engaged, there is a slight, perhaps 1/2 dB, boost of the woofer's response below that peak region, extending down into the upper hundreds. The net effect is that it's not audibly obvious that flipping the switch down makes the cab louder (because it only does in a small region). Even on program material with vocals, this switch is very subtle, and I might simply omit it in the future."
Here's the description Duke sent me a couple of years ago for what seems to have now ended up being v4, at the time it was a one-off for my friend's NAMM booth where we also had one of my DIY amps:
"The lower switch, in the DOWN position, smooths out a 4 dB bump at the top end of the woofer, ballpark 1.8 kHz. But when it's engaged, there is a slight, perhaps 1/2 dB, boost of the woofer's response below that peak region, extending down into the upper hundreds. The net effect is that it's not audibly obvious that flipping the switch down makes the cab louder (because it only does in a small region). Even on program material with vocals, this switch is very subtle, and I might simply omit it in the future."
According to Duke, the switch makes the -3dB point 17kHz in the up position and 3.5 kHz in the down position. These are great cabs, great find!
Bob
Yeah, I think the top switch changes the top end frequency like RColie said, and the bottom switch flipped up adds some mid grind. Great cab. Don't dawdle.
The connectors should be combo speakon and 1/4". They are on my TC115 v1.
Ha ha! Thanks Jon!I’m on my way home so I can give you one!
gregbackstrom
These aren't stock curves--things move around!
On my latest version TC-115 UFT (with up firing tweeter), I have a potentiometer which adjusts the uft +/- 7db and a switch that gives the front firing tweeter a gentle top-end rolloff (or not). If your switch functions similarly, it should be easy to hear.
I thought I would tap the collective for some opinions on this.
I just got a 1203 single port. Great cab but I know it might not be enough for louder situations so.....
I was thinking about building a single 12 with exact dimensions and additional ports as the current 1203 for more lows or a 1203T. My reasoning is cheaper that an additional 1203 plus the wait time to get one built.
I would use the stock 3012LF driver. The question is how will the tone of the 3012LF mate with the full range 1203?
The 3012LF has a spike around 2k which I don't care for. But would a simple x over be a good idea to tame it or should it be left as is and still sound good?
Any info is appreciated.
I just got a 1203 single port. Great cab but I know it might not be enough for louder situations so.....
I was thinking about building a single 12 with exact dimensions and additional ports as the current 1203 for more lows or a 1203T. My reasoning is cheaper that an additional 1203 plus the wait time to get one built.
I would use the stock 3012LF driver. The question is how will the tone of the 3012LF mate with the full range 1203?
The 3012LF has a spike around 2k which I don't care for. But would a simple x over be a good idea to tame it or should it be left as is and still sound good?
Any info is appreciated.
For anyone interested, I have a ThunderChild TC112 version 4 with a padded cover in the classifieds. The cabinet is in excellent condition with very few hours on it.
Thanks,
Bob
Edit: Here's the link...
For Sale - AudioKinesis ThunderChild TC112 Version 4 For Sale Only | TalkBass.com
Thanks,
Bob
Edit: Here's the link...
For Sale - AudioKinesis ThunderChild TC112 Version 4 For Sale Only | TalkBass.com
Last edited:
I have considered the same thing..and have kind of done just that. I bought an Ashdown Rootmaster 112T cabinet which is basically the same width as my AK cab. I yanked out the tweeter and crossover and put a 3012LF in there. It's probably not as refined as the AK cab but they work well together. Good enough for now, anyway. Someday I'll get another AK cab or bug Duke again about building me one without a mid driver or crossover. That should make it rather cheap, plus I already have the 3012LF!
As far as a crossover, I'd run it full range. The 3012LF is very very dark. When using both cabs together, I'll flip the mids switch on my Changeling up to deliver more bite and it blends well.
I'll also use this opportunity to make a confession....and I might be burned at the stake here for doing this...but I actually rewired my Changeling to bypass the crossover for the 3012. It just runs straight full range and I think it sounds better that way. I'm a special kind of jerk for that, I know
