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Big E speakers: Pt 2

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Mountain Trivia:
There are more peaks in the Rockies with elevations above 14,000 feet than there are in California's Sierra Nevada Mountains. But, Mt. Whitney, the highest point in the Sierra Nevada, is 14,494 feet, 43 feet higher than Mt. Elbert, the highest point in the Rockies.

Back in the day, when I was fit and young, I did the start at dark, morning, and get back a few hours before dark pm hike up Mt. Shasta. A little lower, but serious oxygen deprivation at the summit. It is really an amazing, though congested state. Sometimes traffic willing, you can surf then ski or vice versa in the same day. Hate to derail a discussion about a great product, but it does bump it to the front!
 
Hey Mike, did even the new ones rattle? They have twice as heavy a spring in them, (actually 2), designed for 200-400lb cabs.

H1008 is a good handle. But it will need hurricanes or tee nuts. I'm shopping handles furiously. They are hard on these cabs.

Yes they rattle even worse. It's not that the spring isn't strong enough, the problem is that the entire handle mechanisms vibrated insanely when certain notes are hit up the neck on electric bass... even at moderate volumes. So I pulled em out.

It's 100% better with the handles removed. It's easy to carry using the hand slots where the handles were. Thinking of the corner handles in use when opening doors gives me pause. The 8x5 is narrow but fairly tall and wide. Hand slots at the balance point so the cab balances perfectly in a one-handed hold would take advantage of the narrow depth going through doors. Perhaps no handles are needed at all, just nicely rounded over handle slots at the balance points in the sides. Thoughts?
 
Not a fix, but a possible stop-gap: The spring loaded handle on the top of my 2x12 (not a Big E) cab rattled. I tucked one of those cheap gardening/utility gloves in there (so that the spring holds it in place, like a mousetrap -- doesn't have to be a glove, obviously). No more rattle.

Yes they rattle even worse. It's not that the spring isn't strong enough, the problem is that the entire handle mechanisms vibrated insanely when certain notes are hit up the neck on electric bass... even at moderate volumes. So I pulled em out.

It's 100% better with the handles removed. It's easy to carry using the hand slots where the handles were. Thinking of the corner handles in use when opening doors gives me pause. The 8x5 is narrow but fairly tall and wide. Hand slots at the balance point so the cab balances perfectly in a one-handed hold would take advantage of the narrow depth going through doors. Perhaps no handles are needed at all, just nicely rounded over handle slots at the balance points in the sides. Thoughts?
 
Not a fix, but a possible stop-gap: The spring loaded handle on the top of my 2x12 (not a Big E) cab rattled. I tucked one of those cheap gardening/utility gloves in there (so that the spring holds it in place, like a mousetrap -- doesn't have to be a glove, obviously). No more rattle.

I tried stuffing rags etc but it still vibrated. These Big E's have some serious waves going on and the actual cab sides act like a sounding board much like the bell on a trumpet or similar. Mike can explain this better but that was my takeaway after discussing this at length.
 
perfect solution for the handle dilemma

Talked to Steve. He said it was cool to put a hole in the side of the cabinet to use as a handle. The side is not an area subject to pressure as much as air velocity. We don't want to block that air velocity with the cup of a recessed handle. So I'm thinking of different ways to cut and round an integral handle. Which would be cool but a bit laborious.Then I thought---what if I took the handle I've always used (penn elcom 30769) and cut off the cup?
Just make a jig to perfectly cut the opening and just use the flat flange and handle of the 30769. It would look just like the normal handle until you look and see no cup. Dig?
 

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perfect solution for the handle dilemma

Talked to Steve. He said it was cool to put a hole in the side of the cabinet to use as a handle. The side is not an area subject to pressure as much as air velocity. We don't want to block that air velocity with the cup of a recessed handle. So I'm thinking of different ways to cut and round an integral handle. Which would be cool but a bit laborious.Then I thought---what if I took the handle I've always used (penn elcom 30769) and cut off the cup?
Just make a jig to perfectly cut the opening and just use the flat flange and handle of the 30769. It would look just like the normal handle until you look and see no cup. Dig?

So, if I understand this correctly, it's OK for the sides to have holes in them? I would have thought you'd have to maintain the integrity of the box all the way around.
 
On the bigger cabs it's ok to have the holes for handles. Not so good on the smaller cabs. Is there a change in sound? Sure but on the big cabs the ratio of the handle cutout to the side of the cabinet is so small that it's negligible.The smaller the cab the more noticeable it would be. As far as the integrity of the cab--it's pretty nuts with these cabs. You won't find a dimension greater than about 5" without some wood attached in the perpendicular plane..There is as much weight of wood on the inside of the cabinet as the outer shell.

So this would be ok for the 85 and 48---the others would still have corner and/or strap or dog bone handles
 
Cool idea for cutting the cups off the handles.Why didnt I think of that ?Nice. Thats thinking outside the box .er inside the box .Forget it .
Is that east German or West German .......mm what I dont know that .AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA
 
Played a block party with the SVT7pro into BigE 4x8, and was not in the PA. No need. Nice fat clear bass, (G&L SB-2 with flats). Nice long throw and dispersion. I let a second band bass guy play through my rig with his old Stingray.
I walked around the area, and heard him clearly.
Again no science here. The 48 will get er done for most any gig I am likely to play. I had a flat 2"x 4" under the front edge. Nice.
 
Played a block party with the SVT7pro into BigE 4x8, and was not in the PA. No need. Nice fat clear bass, (G&L SB-2 with flats). Nice long throw and dispersion. I let a second band bass guy play through my rig with his old Stingray.
I walked around the area, and heard him clearly.
Again no science here. The 48 will get er done for most any gig I am likely to play. I had a flat 2"x 4" under the front edge. Nice.

How hard did you feel you had to push the amp? The cab? (The 4x8 would be 4 Ohms, correct?)
 
Mike can answer re: the latest 4x8 but it should be 4 ohm.
Had the master about 2pm and the gain only 8 or 9 pm.
I still intend to use my Orange 1000 through it one of these days. The 7pro sounds good and mine is in a drunk proof skb case so I tend to use it for safety sake too.
The cab was not even breathing hard.
I played without my fdeck but plugged the fdeck in for the stranger, in case he ended up going crazy. Turns out he was a civilized fingerstyle player like me;)
 
yeah--christw's cab was one of those haunted cabs. One driver was out then both. Redid all of the wiring except the wires going through the panels.. Still nothing. In these cabs the wires have to pass through different panels before hitting the driver chamber. I was making the holes pretty small---just big enough to pass through with some friction. There must have been a brad that the wire abraded against that shorted it out. I don't think I could duplicate that screwup if I tried.
 
Thanks y'all

I'm a player first so I know what I would expect. These cabs ain't cheap---so I --at least try---to match that with decent customer service.
 
Mike was a great help from initial troubleshooting to repair. He sent me an extra driver to try, we talked through the wiring, and in the end he fixed it because I would have never figured the problem out. :)

Still, it's almost time to give them a real test drive. I'm excited!
 
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