I don't know, haven't seen anything, but they're releasing new pedals like nothing else.
Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
Boss GT 1000Core
- Thread starter Krisfield
- Start date
You mean, they're releasing Waza versions of all their old pedals... So, the same pedals.
A lot of other stuff besides the Waza pedals. Like their new noise gate/suppressor that has some new tech in it. And the new IR-2 guitar amp and cab simulator.
Tbh the noise suppression on the Core is probably my most used feature. A dedicated NS would take up a lot less board real estate. It’s just such a boring pedal to buy.
Apparently the new NS-1X has a very good gate where you do a Slicer effect with it. Really good those fast stops and starts in metal.
How many of you use the X-Bass compressor of the Core?
I have tried it a few times but it adds a lot of lows and boominess to the sound. There is no way I can dial it out in the compressor effect. I don’t think it’s normal that a compressor adds so much lows? Do you use the X-Bass or do you prefer another compressor type in the Core?
I have tried it a few times but it adds a lot of lows and boominess to the sound. There is no way I can dial it out in the compressor effect. I don’t think it’s normal that a compressor adds so much lows? Do you use the X-Bass or do you prefer another compressor type in the Core?
I know what you’re referring to. I put an EQ before the X Bass Comp and add a Low Cut between 40-80hz. I don’t usually use the Direct Mix setting. I also put a Low Cut in the Output EQ.
I think it’s very strange that they add so much boominess to a bass compressor. Why? Bass compressors shouldn’t do that. It totally messes up your sound.
Instead of fixing this with EQ’s can’t you just use another compressor model? Say the X comp. That’s much easier and I think works just as well. You don’t really need a dedicated bass compressor I think.
I like the Orange compressor. The low end is attenuated but you can add it back in with Direct Mix. It does add color and has the Orange Squeezer character. Another choice X Comp. But any of those compressors are good with the Direct Mix setting. I like the X Bass Comp because it’s very clean.
How can you find the X Bass clean if it adds so much lows and totally destroys your original sound? That’s not clean in my book.
I exclusively use the X-bass comp and never ever have had problems with the low end. I find it one of the best compressors if not the best I've ever used (digital and otherwise). Maybe your input level is too hot? Is the compressor first in your chain?
I have tested it some more. I have it right at the beginning of the chain. My input signal is not too hot. The added lows are very prominent on my active Ken Smith bass, even with input in system backed to -10db it messes up that bass sound. Less so on my passive Moon jazz. But still it adds more lows than a compressor should normally do. I find the other compressor models therefor more useful. Did you AB it, with on and off?
I have set direct mix to 0. With direct mix dialed in the sound becomes 'honkey/phasey'. Not sure why that is either?
Last edited:
I use x-bass sometimes although recently switched to using the Orange more. I have a Thumpinator HPF up front and always have an EQ block upfront with a high and low cut on all my patches. One of the Thumpinator sales pitches was that some compressors are a little more sensitive to sub frequencies causing compression to kick in too heavily, perhaps it being multi-band makes this more excessive?
I don’t find it excessively boomy but it certainly thickens the lows. I think there’s a pretty good range of comps for different scenarios.
I don’t find it excessively boomy but it certainly thickens the lows. I think there’s a pretty good range of comps for different scenarios.
I’ve been playing more with the Int Pedal stuff in assigns, it’s super powerful!
Still experimenting but one really cool one was stacking two slicers at different rates. Then setting an assign which sweeps back and forth through the patterns which makes for a really cool glitchy effect.
Still experimenting but one really cool one was stacking two slicers at different rates. Then setting an assign which sweeps back and forth through the patterns which makes for a really cool glitchy effect.
Has anyone who is using the included Roland PSB-1U to power the GT-1000Core shortened the attached cord and removed the barrel-shaped magnetic core with no adverse effects (noise)? I know the magnetic core is generally included in this type of power supply to make certain there is no line noise, but also know that it is not always required in every situation. When I power using a 1-Spot (that does not have the core) there are no issues.
Reason I ask...I am this close to being able to mount the GT, an FS-7 and the power supply in a BCB-30X for the ultimate grab-n-go system. The long attached cord AND the placement of the magnetic core are ruining an otherwise clean install.
Reason I ask...I am this close to being able to mount the GT, an FS-7 and the power supply in a BCB-30X for the ultimate grab-n-go system. The long attached cord AND the placement of the magnetic core are ruining an otherwise clean install.
Why not just use the one spot?
That is what I do because the boss power suply is so bulky, no problem ever.
Ok, so you can mod the boss power supply on the 9v side, but pay great attention to the polarisation and insulation. I would recomend some kind of parts like in the following pic, I do not know the english name (in french it is epissure) or even better soldering the wire and insulating them with termo sleeves.
For a similar problem that you have, I once recased a 1 spot in a project box, so I could desolder the wires on the pcb itself to shorten the 9v side, and ad a classic plug for the high tension side (the kind there is on an amp), it is fairly easy to do so with a little know how.
For a similar problem that you have, I once recased a 1 spot in a project box, so I could desolder the wires on the pcb itself to shorten the 9v side, and ad a classic plug for the high tension side (the kind there is on an amp), it is fairly easy to do so with a little know how.
After some research and thought, I shortened the 9v lead and removed the ferrite choke. Everything works perfectly and without any noise. The following is an explanation of why the choke is positioned where it is...
"If the ferrite choke was intended to reduce interference coming out of the power supply, it would be located close to the PSU end of the wire. Being at the far end, it leaves the whole length of the wire open as an antenna. Any interference coming out of the PSU would have several feet of wire to radiate from, before meeting the choke.
No, the choke is there to prevent the power wire from acting as an antenna for the device it's intended to plug into."
That and the fact that the GT1k worked perfectly with the 1-spot made the decision to move ahead easy.No, the choke is there to prevent the power wire from acting as an antenna for the device it's intended to plug into."
