Bugera Veyron BV1001M gig review

[Mr_O'B]

No shame in my game and sometimes folk pay too much attention to the Name. I use mine to drive my Tecamp L610. Can you say you're fired? . View attachment 807449

Not in anyway asking if one is better than other. I am curious to know the tonal differences between the TecAmp and Bugera Veyron Mosfet?

 

[phillybass101]

Not in anyway asking if one if better than other. I am curious to know the tonal differences between the TecAmp and Bugera Veyron Mosfet?

IMHO Tecamp Tone is clean/clear and of course has a knob which can affect how warm or more trebly you sound with just a turn either way. The Bugera is not as clean/clear or as hifi as the Tecamp but also provides compression and several preset mid frequencies at the turn of a knob. My Bugera was a gift and I'm saving for either a Puma 900 or the 1000 if that tells you anything. I just have a preference for that Tecamp Tone. Just my own subjective opinion. My Puma is only 500 watts and to me the Bugera is way louder thus I use it with the 610. I don't know if this helps or not.

 

[Mr_O'B]

IMHO Tecamp Tone is clean/clear and of course has a knob which can affect how warm or more trebly you sound with just a turn either way. The Bugera is not as clean/clear or as hifi as the Tecamp but also provides compression and several preset mid frequencies at the turn of a knob. My Bugera was a gift and I'm saving for either a Puma 900 or the 1000 if that tells you anything. I just have a preference for that Tecamp Tone. Just my own subjective opinion. My Puma is only 500 watts and to me the Bugera is way louder thus I use it with the 610. I don't know if this helps or not.

Great description!

 

[arbiterusa]

Just out of conversation, what indications do we have that these new Bugera amps unreliable? You mean like the TC Electronics, Markbass, Ampegs catching fire? I've been playing Bugera bass amps for years and they've been nothing but ABSOLUTELY RELIABLE. It's just that people for some reason love to connect Bugera and Behringer, then quote from "somewhere on the interweb" stories about Behringer/Bugera reliability. I've been a TB member for years and I rarely see reliablity issues making the front page for either Bugera or Behringer. Yet, the rumors persist. I wish everyone would leave them alone. They make a bunch of excellent products.

My Behringer V-Amp Pro failed after ten years when I was trying to change the battery and managed to both slip and lose my balance, driving the screwdriver I was going to use to pop the battery loose right through one of the big ICs on the chassis. The POS quit right there! What kind of crap construction is that? Everything they make is garbage. /sarcasm

Hate to say it and it will get me flamed, but the brand I have had more problems with than any other over the years, and NOT because I own a lot of it, is Fender. Carvin would be number 2. My Mackie mixer is doing its level best to beat them both to the #1 spot, and is going to get replaced by something...not Mackie, since they quit making stuff here in the US.

 

[Mr_O'B]

My Behringer V-Amp Pro failed after ten years when I was trying to change the battery and managed to both slip and lose my balance, driving the screwdriver I was going to use to pop the battery loose right through one of the big ICs on the chassis. The POS quit right there! What kind of crap construction is that? Everything they make is garbage. /sarcasm

Hate to say it and it will get me flamed, but the brand I have had more problems with than any other over the years, and NOT because I own a lot of it, is Fender. Carvin would be number 2. My Mackie mixer is doing its level best to beat them both to the #1 spot, and is going to get replaced by something...not Mackie, since they quit making stuff here in the US.

If that's your experience and opinion you have the right to express yourself without getting flamed!

 

[Justice]

It has been a year and a half (18 months) since I started using my Bugera Veyron M amp, I was an early adopter and have not been disappointed. I have been through a few different cab configurations and I am currently using two 2x10 in a vertical stack. Indoors or outdoors with no PA support, no problems. I have even dropped the head once, it gained a few scratches but keeps on going.

My current rig from our 4th of July gig.

 

[Mystic Michael]

Same with me.
I also had both of them at home for a few days, quite a pair of different beasts.
The M is more pronounced in the mid/upper mid range and overall sounds a bit more "snappy".
The T focuses more on the low mid range where it moves some serious air, but you'll have to dial in a lot of treble to get a bit of that sparkling top end, where it can easily get bitey and too much from the M.
Both are great sounding amps, but voiced quite differently.

Oh, and both of them are not the kings of overdrive without a stompbox.
Both of them can be overdriven, but none of them sounds any good to my ears.

@Lindex I've got a question for you: If one wanted to own just one Veyron that is as versatile as possible, which would it be? Can the mosfet version be tweaked to sound like the tube version more effectively than the tube version can be tweaked to sound like the mosfet version? Or vice versa?

What say ye?

MM

 

[Lindex]

Can the mosfet version be tweaked to sound like the tube version more effectively than the tube version can be tweaked to sound like the mosfet version? Or vice versa?

Difficult to say...
In my ears the M is more natural, neutral sounding than the T which adds quite some character to the tone.
The T tends to sound quite dark, and you really have to push the gain and treble on the amp to get it sound more fresh and to really get the highs open up.
But then again it offers some serious push and punch in the lower registers, I'm not sure if you can get them sound like the other one with their respective onboard EQ.

I would say the M is more versatile and lifely, while the T is more on the smooth side with more "ooomph".

IMHO if you are playing "fast" music, be it Rock, Funk, Metal etc. the M might be the one to go to, if your playstyle is more on the slow side, laying massive foundations with weight to every single note played, the T may suit better.

That's not saying you cannot do everything with either of them, it's more like a tendency.

That said, this is all from my memory as I'm not playing the Veyrons anymore.
I switched to the Behringer BX2000H which has the same power section as the Veyrons (Bugera is just another brand of Music Group Corp. which was founded by Uli Behringer), but I like its EQ section more than both of the Veyrons, giving you 5-band-EQ as opposed to 3-band, a frequency variable Shape Filter and some more.
All set flat the Behringer sounds pretty much like the Veyron M.

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[Kirk Bryant]

So are all you guys still rockin' your Veyrons? How's the reliability been. Still happy with the tone profile of this amp? @Brad Johnson I just revisited this thread after a year and since seeing this amp for $350 a couple of places. I was thinking of retiring my GB shuttle 6 or BX500 and getting one of these for a backup to my PV MM1000 and GB SM 12.0.

 

[Brad Johnson]

So are all you guys still rockin' your Veyrons? How's the reliability been. Still happy with the tone profile of this amp? @Brad Johnson I just revisited this thread after a year and since seeing this amp for $350 a couple of places. I was thinking of retiring my GB shuttle 6 or BX500 and getting one of these for a backup to my PV MM1000 and GB SM 12.0.

No problem in over a year of gigging but the last few months I switched over to a Quilter Bass Block 800.

 

[Kirk Bryant]

Hey Brad that's interesting as I kind of follow what you're using for an amp. Now that you've opened the door, how about a compare and contrast. I'm waiting for a friend to bring a Q into my jam as I write this. Hmm I think a text is in order.

 

[GMC]

Hi Guys.
A basic question that I can't seem to find the answer to.
I've read most of the comments about how we don't know what the "watts" are, but can't figure out if this amp is louder than, say my Markbass F1 at 8ohms.
I believe my amp puts outs 300watts at 8homs, and I want something louder, so I have more headroom, and maybe a bit more volume.
The Veyron looks to be ideal, but I can't figure out if it is going to offer the above, or if the marketing hype is covering the fact that it's just a standard D class head that's no louder than the average 500watt head.

Thanks.

A 2000w peak amp into 4 Ohms is capable of 1400w RMS into 4 Ohms. The RMS value is basically 70% of the peak value and it's a theoretical / mathematics figure. Into 8ohms, one generally halves this value again...so into an 8 Ohm load it's giving 800w RMS. Which is over double the wattage that most class D 500w amps are putting out. That's 500w rms into 4 ohm loads. Ever see a 500w Markbass combo? Well you only get 500w if you add another cab. On it's own..it's only 250w. So this amp is cracking out double the Markbass 800w amps are kicking out.
The next thing to consider is if your cabs are efficient at 800w? The single driver cabs I've used that can handle that kind of power don't seem to give any more volume over a certain amount of power...up the gain more...and nothing more really happens. Most cabs don't give you any more spl over a certain power anyhow. So multiple cabs are usually the way to go.

 

[Stinsok]

I've been happy with mine. The mid sweep makes me fiddle with it more than I should. I bought a nice laptop bag at the thrift store for 3 bucks. Fits like a glove.

 

[agedhorse]

A 2000w peak amp into 4 Ohms is capable of 1400w RMS into 4 Ohms. The RMS value is basically 70% of the peak value and it's a theoretical / mathematics figure.

No sir, this is not true.

The RMS VOLTAGE is about 70% of its peak voltage but the "RMS" POWER is 50% of its peak power.

You missed the squared factor in the power equation that is responsible for the difference between voltage and power. It's also why 1/2 the voltage is 6dB but 1/2 the power is 3dB, the scales change for this reason.

 

[John D Harris]

No sir, this is not true.

The RMS VOLTAGE is about 70% of its peak voltage but the "RMS" POWER is 50% of its peak power.

You missed the squared factor in the power equation that is responsible for the difference between voltage and power. It's also why 1/2 the voltage is 6dB but 1/2 the power is 3dB, the scales change for this reason.

Plus, the peak power rating could possibly be (? - conditions under which the 2kW was measured) at a favorable frequency or narrow band of frequencies only - IOW, peak power at all points between 31Hz to 10kHz, could fall a lot lower than 2kW though a sizable portion of that range.

 

[Brad Johnson]

Hey Brad that's interesting as I kind of follow what you're using for an amp. Now that you've opened the door, how about a compare and contrast. I'm waiting for a friend to bring a Q into my jam as I write this. Hmm I think a text is in order.

Sorry, I missed this somehow, Kirk.

The Bugera Veyron Mosfet still does what it does... the Quilter seems to do everything "better". Which initially was very hard to believe. It's cleaner, without leaning towards sterile. Tighter sounding, including the low end. Even more controllable. It's like someone gave me a simple black box that emitted my ideal amplified tone with whatever bass I was using and whatever way I was playing it. It's that nice. And headroom? Geeze. I set the Master around 40w at soundcheck and it was pumping. Kind of went against my usual MO and set the Master to a click or two below 160w for the gig and brought down the volume on my Brubaker JXB-6 Custom jazz bass. Tone controls were at noon. Easily some of the best live sound ever for me and all I did was twiddle my fingers.

I just did an upscale club date with a very good sound engineer. He said my rig was the best he's heard. And he loved the DI in the Quilter and compared it very favorably against a pretty popular amp. Didn't need bass in the monitors onstage, I had that covered with the rig. And to top it off, he had my tone coming through the house. Sounded like it was my gig.

Short version... as long as you don't hear or compare a Quilter, the Veyron is still great. Once you have it's pretty much impossible to put the horse back in the barn. And the fact that this killer US built amp is under $600 is crazy.

 

[Kirk Bryant]

Thanks for the update, much appreciated.
Now how can those two knobs control the entire frequency range. I'll have to play one live to really understand how those simple controls can sculpt the sonic image I have in my head. For each different room that's encountered with its own EQ requirements. For several different basses from P to jazz to modern 5er to fretless to upright.

 

[John D Harris]

It would be interesting to hook up a signal generator & a scope, tweak & see how the 2 knobs work & interact.
Ears are the final arbiter, but I'm thinking the interaction between the 2 might be hard to guess from the knob positions.

 

[Brad Johnson]

Thanks for the update, much appreciated.
Now how can those two knobs control the entire frequency range. I'll have to play one live to really understand how those simple controls can sculpt the sonic image I have in my head. For each different room that's encountered with its own EQ requirements. For several different basses from P to jazz to modern 5er to fretless to upright.

I've been gigging mine for months and have rarely even felt the need to tweak. And every bass I've used has sounded as good as I've heard them. It's one of those things where you have to try it to hear if you get similar results. My BB800 has sounded surprisingly nice with cabs I didn't particularly care for with other amps.

My MO on gigs works well with the Quilter. Before I tweak anything I bring my volumes up. That simple move typically yields all the highs, mids and lows that I'll need. From there I can usually tweak my Bass or technique. That's all I've had to do.

 

[Brad Johnson]

It would be interesting to hook up a signal generator & a scope, tweak & see how the 2 knobs work & interact.
Ears are the final arbiter, but I'm thinking the interaction between the 2 might be hard to guess from the knob positions.

The knobs are very well thought out IMO, deceptively simple. You can sweep between a mid cut, flat and treble roll off on one knob or play around with the depth with the other control. The highs are killing with my passive Jazzes so I don't need a treble boost. In fact I find myself rolling the passive tone controls on my 1978 Jazzes back. The headroom can really get in your face if you so desire. The character of the basses really come through and I think that subtractive tweaks can get many sounds that someone might normally add by addition.