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Building Your Own Custom Truss Rods

I'm going to add just a few thoughts having completed my first DASR from the point of view of being a complete beginner. Guitars I can make, but my metalworking experience is exactly zero.

Because I'm a complete beginner, nobody should take anything written here as advice! Read what Bruce and the others have written. I won't do a step by step guide, Bruce has already pretty much done that. I'll just included what I found useful to know as a beginner.

First step was to watch this, showing how to drill vertically through the very centre of rod.




I live in Italy so everything is Metric. This a list of what I used:

FOR THE PARTS:
Apart from the rod, all came from Amazon.

Rod - 5mm steel. It just came from my local DIY shop, so I can't be sure exactly what type of steel.
Barrel -10mm brass rod
Space and cross bar - 10mm 6061 aluminium square rod
Pins - 2mm steel rod
Bolt - M6 x 70mm bolts. I found ones that were only part threaded. Cutting off the threaded part of the 70mm bolts left an unthreaded shaft of the right length.
View attachment 7362970



TOOLS:
Bench Drill Press
Hacksaw with bi'metal blade 24tpi
View attachment 7362975
Clamp - I bought a cheap one from Amazon, made my Silverline. It's got no vertical or horizontal V channels, which made things a bit more difficult. At some point I'll replace it for one with channels.
Drill bits - I used my standard HSS drill bits, that I use for wood working. They worked fine.
Centre drill bits - I bought a cheap set from Amazon. They worked fine.
View attachment 7362959
File
Digital level
Oil (because I forgot to buy cutting fluid)
Tap & die - I bought from Intense Srl in Italy. M5x0.8 is the thread size.
View attachment 7362969



First I cut off about 33mm of brass using the hacksaw. Before I started I thought I'd be spending days just sawing the various rods into the right length. In reality the hacksaw with the bi-metal blade was incredibly quick. Steel, brass, aluminium, nothing took more than 30 seconds to saw through. I then used a file to clean up the ends of the brass rod, then put it into my drill press and pushed it down onto a piece of 120 grit stuck to a piece of scrap.
View attachment 7362965

I then used the technique described in the video at the top to position the clamp directly under the chuck so that I could use the centre drill bit to start the hole. Watch the video, but basically you put the centre drill bit (upside down) loosely in the chuck, slide the clamp so that makes contact with the jaws on the far side, tighten up the clamp so that it grips the centre drill bit, then loosen the chuck so the drill bit is now held tightly in the clamp directly centred below the chuck. You can now put the brass barrel in the chuck and lower it onto the centre drill.
View attachment 7362966
You get left with a small hole like this;
View attachment 7362971

I then drilled a 4.2mm hole through the barrel. It's 4.2mm because that's the size hole you need for tapping an M5 thread. I used the same techniques as above, putting the drill bit upside down in the chuck, lowering it down and tightening it into the clamp. The brass rod then goes into the chuck and you can start drilling. I drilled at about 1200RPM, reversing frequently, light-ish pressue and frequently stopping to re-apply oil as the lubricant.

I won't lie, it took me quite a long time to get all of this set up, and a couple of tries to get holes centred and clean. It would have been a lot easier with a vise with horizontal and vertical V slots.



For me these were the techniques that mattered:

1. Drilling in the centre of something using the technique shown in the video.
2. Using a centre drill bit to start the hole. Without it my drill bits wandered.
3. Clamping the drill bit, and putting the work piece into the chuck. I'm told that by doing this the drill bit is automatically finding the centre.
4. For the barrell I drilled half way, then repeated the process starting from the other end. I ended up with a perfectly centred hole all the way through.

All the holes were drilled as above.

For drilling the holes at a 2 degree angle I just did this:
View attachment 7362963
And for the square rod, this:
View attachment 7362967

For tapping the holes I put the tap into the drill press and turned the chuck by hand. Here I've drill several holes making several anchor pieces. One technique that occured to me only late in the day is to tap a hole as soon as you've drilled it. The clamp is already in the right place, so the tap will cut exactly in the centre of the hole.
View attachment 7362968

For threading the rod, I made one of Bruce's handles that he describes above. I found it really hard to start the thread though. I could'nt seem to apply enough pressure and turn smoothly at the same time. So I improvised and put the rod in a hand drill and just pushed it againt the die held in my clamp.
View attachment 7362973

DO NOT copy this technique. Yes it worked brilliantly, but something tells me the machinists are going to (rightly) shout at me. Not least because it puts a lot of stress on the drill. Doing one truss rod is probably ok, but if I were making them in batches I'm pretty such my drill would melt. I know drill Bruce mentions threading in one go without stopping. I wasn't able to do this, I found I need to reverse every couple of revolutions. I ended up with beautiful threads, no wobble at all.


Once I'd gathered all the parts, it probably took me a full day of experimenting, failing, re-trying till I had my first truss rod. Nothing was particularly difficult, once I'd understood the 4 techniques I describe above. Once they had sunk into my pretty thick head, everything went smoothly.


So overall, I would say that it was a reasonably straightforward process, using tools that most people with a workshop probably already have. Being able to make rods in any size I like is going to be amazing.

The only thing I don't like about them is the mess. I have a small workshop with no room for a decidated metalworking drill press. I worry about the oil used for lubrication getting onto my desk and drill bits etc etc and contaminating my wood, particularly beforfe applying a finsih. So if anyone in Europe wants to make me the parts, I'd still happily pay for them.


With regards to installation, I've made the jig for routing the channel, but haven't actually done an installation yet. Once I have I'll write that up as well.


Thanks Bruce, this is surely one of the best threads ever.

Great work and process. Thanks for sharing.

I do my building in my house and wanting not to deal with the clean up. I use a Accu-lube gel paste - a vegetable-based gel lubricant. You brush on very little amount and remove any excess which I will apply to the holes in the soft metals to make sure I have enough lubricant. I have been very happy with the results with no mess or smell. Wipes clean with a paper towel.

Accu-Lube

Lurbi-Cut - is a wax and vegetable oil blend.
 
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Great work and process. Thanks for sharing.

I do my building in my house and wanting not to deal with the clean up. I use a Accu-lube gel paste - a vegetable-based gel lubricant. You brush on very little amount and remove any excess which I will apply to the holes in the soft metals to make sure I have enough lubricant. I have been very happy with the results with no mess or smell. Wipes clean with a paper towel.

Accu-Lube

Lurbi-Cut - is a wax and vegetable oil blend.
Thanks for suggesting that, I'll take a look.
 
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Clamp - I bought a cheap one from Amazon, made my Silverline. It's got no vertical or horizontal V channels, which made things a bit more difficult. At some point I'll replace it for one with channels.
You can make a set of pads to go in the vise you have that have channels. Quick and dirty vertical (not-a-V) is as easy as a set of sacrificial jaws (ones you don't mind modifying) and drill a slightly smaller hole than the stock you want to hold, after carefully centering the closed jaws on the drill bit point. Be sure to think enough to avoid the screws holding them to the vise.
 
I think I am about ready for the epoxy stage. So for rod prep you put some grease in the barrel and on the rod threads, then you also put wax over top of the exposed threads too? And then a wax covering in the nooks and crannies for the turning parts?
 
Yes, I put wax on the socket head, the brass barrel, and the exposed length of the rod. But not on the square aluminum Sleeve, the aluminum Cross Bar, or the Anchor.

Grease inside the threads of the Barrel and in the mating surfaces of head assembly (done before assembling and pinning).
 
I had never really thought of using a cable instead of a truss rod, but it is an interesting idea. I suppose the easiest way would be to use a folded cable, with the ends anchored say at the headstock end, and then a simple threaded j-hook type of adjuster at the heel, pulling on the fold of the cable. One of these days I should give it a try; I would think bicycle brake cable would be strong enough, and it is light and easy to work with.
Some sort of damping would be required, as the cables would act as a pair of sympathetic strings that would vibrate at a certain pitch, but that should be easy enough to control with some foam rubber or something similar.
I am wondering if any brave luthiers have experimented with using a Dyneema/Cuben cord to act like a single rod-single action relief adjuster?
This stuff is extremely light, and super strong. Hi-tech sailboats and ultralight camping gear are typical applications, and there are a couple companies using Dyneema strands to replace the SS spokes on mountain and road bikes. it would be unbelieveably light for sure!
 
I am wondering if any brave luthiers have experimented with using a Dyneema/Cuben cord to act like a single rod-single action relief adjuster?
This stuff is extremely light, and super strong. Hi-tech sailboats and ultralight camping gear are typical applications, and there are a couple companies using Dyneema strands to replace the SS spokes on mountain and road bikes. it would be unbelieveably light for sure!
It’s an interesting idea that would have the advantages of strength and light weight.

You’d have to figure out how to keep the adjustment end from rotating (probably not too difficult).

The distinct disadvantages I see are:
-Strictly single action (you can’t push on a rope).
-If slack or close to slack it could rattle unless it’s damped somehow.
 
I am wondering if any brave luthiers have experimented with using a Dyneema/Cuben cord to act like a single rod-single action relief adjuster?
This stuff is extremely light, and super strong. Hi-tech sailboats and ultralight camping gear are typical applications, and there are a couple companies using Dyneema strands to replace the SS spokes on mountain and road bikes. it would be unbelieveably light for sure!

Hello dimarquez;

Back around page 6 of this thread, we had some discussion about using things other than metal rods to make adjustable truss rods:


I'm not familiar with Dyneema/Cuben cord, but I assume that it's a refinement of Spectra and Kevlar. A very high strength/low stretch flexible fiber cord.

Yes, it's probably possible to make an adjustable SA truss rod using it as the main tension length. The tricky part would figuring how to attach it to the adjusting mechanism and the anchor. Probably pre-cast it into a strip of epoxy, which could then be set into a slot in the neck.

But would it really save much weight over a SASR rod made from 7075 aluminum? Probably not enough to be worth the trouble.

It would be a fun R & D experiment. Go for it, if you like!
 
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Hello dimarquez;

Back around page 6 of this thread, we had some discussion about using things other than metal rods to make adjustable truss rods:


I'm not familiar with Dyneema/Cuben cord, but I assume that it's a refinement of Spectra and Kevlar. A very high strength/low stretch flexible fiber cord.

Yes, it's probably possible to make an adjustable SA truss rod using it as the main tension length. The tricky part would figuring how to attach it to the adjusting mechanism and the anchor. Probably pre-cast it into a strip of epoxy, which could then be set into a slot in the neck.

But would it really save much weight over a SASR rod made from 7075 aluminum? Probably not enough to be worth the trouble.

It would be a fun R & D experiment. Go for it, if you like!
thanks for the encouragement Bruce! As for me going for it, I am 76 now, retired and living in Medellin Colombia. All of the great tools I had back in my field service engineer days are gone, and I was never really any good with wood, much better with metals and electronics. but I do enjoy reading your threads and posts and I truly appreciate the spirit in which you so generously share your expertise, experience, and wisdom.
The Dyneema thing is an idea that just occurred to me while reading this thread. I don’t think Dyneema comes from the Kevlar/Spectra family.
its pretty amazing stuff and it seems to resist solar degradation better than the Kevlar/Spectra stuff according my sailing friends.
Anyway…thanks for sharing your wisdom! always enlightening to read your posts!
 
It's been two years since I started this thread. I've said from the beginning that I wasn't really interested in building these truss rods for other Luthiers, at least not as one-off custom orders. I didn't really have the time, and I figured my price would be too high for most of you.

I openly encouraged anyone else to take this up as a side business, but I don't think anyone has. And only a few of you have been brave enough to make your own.

I'm re-thinking this. These days, it would be easy for me to have the blocks and bars made up by a mail-order company like SendCutSend, a hundred at a time, for $1 each or less. That would take away a lot of my labor. I would only need to cut the rods to length, thread them, and pin the parts together. And I've got good machines for that.

I may be able to offer one-off custom length truss rods for around $40-$50, plus postage.

Would any of you be interested in them for your projects? Is that a workable price?
 
It's been two years since I started this thread. I've said from the beginning that I wasn't really interested in building these truss rods for other Luthiers, at least not as one-off custom orders. I didn't really have the time, and I figured my price would be too high for most of you.

I openly encouraged anyone else to take this up as a side business, but I don't think anyone has. And only a few of you have been brave enough to make your own.

I'm re-thinking this. These days, it would be easy for me to have the blocks and bars made up by a mail-order company like SendCutSend, a hundred at a time, for $1 each or less. That would take away a lot of my labor. I would only need to cut the rods to length, thread them, and pin the parts together. And I've got good machines for that.

I may be able to offer one-off custom length truss rods for around $40-$50, plus postage.

Would any of you be interested in them for your projects? Is that a workable price?
I would consider that a fair price for a custom truss rod, however, I DO intend to make my own, using a variation of your recipe. I haven't posted about it, but I have started working on jigs and processes.

On the other hand, some places online sell a 5-pack of truss rods for less.
 
Probably not the cost advantage it sounds like. I recall someone in LC saying that they buy these with the expectation that some or most in a set will be bad, and test them all before using any.
Yeah, I get that! Not commenting on the quality of the more affordable truss rods, just the cost.

On further consideration, I guess the person who needs a custom one-off probably isn't going to buy in bulk, off-the-rack truss rods, anyway.
 
Yeah, I get that! Not commenting on the quality of the more affordable truss rods, just the cost.

On further consideration, I guess the person who needs a custom one-off probably isn't going to buy in bulk, off-the-rack truss rods, anyway.

Yeah, that's it. My offer is about custom length truss rods, which I'm assuming that you guys would order one at a time. I expect that most small shop and hobby builders would just buy standard Bitterroots or whatever if they fit and work okay. I understand that they may not think that my truss rods are worth the extra money, in standard sizes.

I currently make up custom truss rods in small quantities for several other Luthiers. These are all the DASR Embedded style, like I use in my own basses. They order them in batches of 5 or 10 at a time. And sometimes they have me do the routing and installation of the truss rod into their neck blanks.

My question here was more about the DADR style rods that I showed at the beginning of this thread. How many of you would be interested in one-off custom-size DADR rods? Whether for new instruments, or replacements like the Pedulla and Roscoe that I showed. I'm just trying to get a feel for whether it's worth it for me to order batches of the parts in advance, to get the price down lower. How many orders per year am I likely to get? If it's only a couple, then it's not worth my investment or time.
 
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Bruce’s truss rod design is different from DADR rods you can buy everywhere at low cost. I see this like why buy a Ferrari when you can buy Toyota. Both will take you from place A to place B, the experience is just quite different. In my own builds I like to use the best truss rod design I know, that’s why I make them like Bruce. To my ears they do make an audible difference. That difference is worth the extra work (or costs) for me.
 
Bruce’s truss rod design is different from DADR rods you can buy everywhere at low cost. I see this like why buy a Ferrari when you can buy Toyota. Both will take you from place A to place B, the experience is just quite different. In my own builds I like to use the best truss rod design I know, that’s why I make them like Bruce. To my ears they do make an audible difference. That difference is worth the extra work (or costs) for me.

Thanks, Marko! Yes, I'm coming to the conclusion that the builders who really dig into the engineering side of electric basses, are also capable of making their own custom truss rods. If they want them. It really isn't that hard. I wrote this thread as a guide, to help them along and save them some experimenting.

The builders who are content with the commonly-available DADR rods aren't really looking for custom length versions. I don't think there's enough market to justify me getting involved.