Enjoy the benefits of a premium membership!
Upgrade Account
-
TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
Join free Log in
Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.
- Status
svtb15
Inactive
- Mar 22, 2004
- 13,004
- 4,741
- Disclosures
- I play it all. Whatever works for the gig. Q+
There were very few. Perhaps 3-7 that had a hex adjustment on the truss rid adjuster.
Hey everyone...
I'd like to ask a few questions to the owners/past owners here; especially those who have owned multiple A-C basses.
1.) How often, if at all, has your bass needed a shim?
2.) Related to question 1, has anyone ever had a problems with their saddles bottoming out trying to lower the action to their liking?
3.) Does anyone here like really straight necks with low (1/16"-3/32") action? Any comments on how easy this setup has been to achieve?
4.) Can anyone comment on the general tonal qualities of "Jimmywood" as opposed to any other "legal" rosewood that is used on many hundreds of basses today?
5.) For anyone who has bought and sold several A-C basses while keeping just one or two, what stands out about the basses that made you keep them vs. the basses you decided to sell?
6.) And finally... in the world of A-C, does the word "dud" even exist?
Thanks to anyone who is willing to answer one or all of my questions above... thanks!!
*NOTE* - I am _NOT_ attempting to open any cans of worms or stir any pots... I am simply weighing options before I make what could be the most significant bass purchase of my life and am doing my best to be as thorough and knowledgeable as possible.
Thanks!!!
I'd like to ask a few questions to the owners/past owners here; especially those who have owned multiple A-C basses.
1.) How often, if at all, has your bass needed a shim?
2.) Related to question 1, has anyone ever had a problems with their saddles bottoming out trying to lower the action to their liking?
3.) Does anyone here like really straight necks with low (1/16"-3/32") action? Any comments on how easy this setup has been to achieve?
4.) Can anyone comment on the general tonal qualities of "Jimmywood" as opposed to any other "legal" rosewood that is used on many hundreds of basses today?
5.) For anyone who has bought and sold several A-C basses while keeping just one or two, what stands out about the basses that made you keep them vs. the basses you decided to sell?
6.) And finally... in the world of A-C, does the word "dud" even exist?
Thanks to anyone who is willing to answer one or all of my questions above... thanks!!
*NOTE* - I am _NOT_ attempting to open any cans of worms or stir any pots... I am simply weighing options before I make what could be the most significant bass purchase of my life and am doing my best to be as thorough and knowledgeable as possible.
Thanks!!!
Chef
In Memoriam
Never needed a shim.
I keep my action at 1/16 b/t bottom of string and top of fret, at 12th position, fretting 1st position; relief nearly flat but not quite.
Personally, I'd call that relatively medium action. I know guys that like it lots lower than I do.
I keep my action at 1/16 b/t bottom of string and top of fret, at 12th position, fretting 1st position; relief nearly flat but not quite.
Personally, I'd call that relatively medium action. I know guys that like it lots lower than I do.
Cool, thanks.
At this setup, do you have room to go even lower, or are your saddles bottomed out?
Here's why I ask... saddles bottoming out is one of the most common problems I have found on bolt-on basses. It drives me insane. I have had this problem with a USA Lakland, Musicman SR4 and "BFR" SR5, Modulus Genesis... maybe this is exclusive to lefties?
So... IF I am lucky enough to get to own an A-C someday, I will NOT be able to return it and it will suck horribly if I run into this problem again.
Assuming "often" is related to multiple basses, as I find a shim is a one time thing and deemed as necessary (or unnecessary) right from the get-go on any bass.
My LG didn't need a shim to support any action setting I'd ever desire, BUT, I've seen cases where neck shims were necessary on multiple brands of very high end instruments. Generally speaking it simply means the neck heel was cut a bit too thin, or, the neck pocket is cut just a bit too deep, or both. And it does not take much to bump into the limits of some of the bridges out there.
I know how important a good solid neck fitting is on any bass, but I've also never seen a case where adding a shim has negatively impacted tone. I think a big part of the reason why is because it generally only takes a very small/thin shim to get things up to where you can get the action as low as you need (note that it's not a 1:1 thing... a thin shim gives you much more adjustment back than the thickness of the shim itself... it's important to know that). I've seen everything from small strips of sandpaper to segments cut from business cards.
Bottom line on this one is, I do see how a shim might unsettle someone... especially with a high end instrument, but it's really no big deal at all. IMHO.
See above.
In my case, relatively flat/low, but not super low. But at least on my LG5, getting the setup I want, or even lower, is trivial.
Fine instruments are such a personal thing, I think the answer always has to be "yes", depending on the musician, and "dud" can be a relative term... when you're spending this kind of money on an instrument "dud" doesn't literally have to mean genuine crap. Just means it fell short enough of expectations that it was deemed as not worth the money for a given potential owner... yet at the same time, that same bass would totally rock someone else's world just as it should. This is why a lot of builders offer the approval period for the vast majority of their offerings (barring any custom orders that are just too specialized to be re-offered to another or a dealer if not approved, anyway).
svtb15
Inactive
- Mar 22, 2004
- 13,004
- 4,741
- Disclosures
- I play it all. Whatever works for the gig. Q+
I have never had a shim in any of my Alleva basses. Although i have another top name fender clone bass that has one. It is fine as long as teh shim is feathered...
I set my action about the same as Chef. At times it will be lower and at times higher.. depending on my strings.. I never stick with one set type. im always experimenting
I have never had a dud. But i have had a few that are stand out greats.
I think that is just the way it goes when you have organic components such as wood. sometimes the sum of the parts just "happens" in a good way..
Where if it were aluminum of graphite the outcome would be more consistent. As soon as you bring Wood into the picture, variations arise.
But I never had a dud.
I have had about ten allevas.. And i only got rid of them in order to keep the lightest of the batch or to donate to a charity fund raiser.
I currently own 4
I set my action about the same as Chef. At times it will be lower and at times higher.. depending on my strings.. I never stick with one set type. im always experimenting
I have never had a dud. But i have had a few that are stand out greats.
I think that is just the way it goes when you have organic components such as wood. sometimes the sum of the parts just "happens" in a good way..
Where if it were aluminum of graphite the outcome would be more consistent. As soon as you bring Wood into the picture, variations arise.
But I never had a dud.
I have had about ten allevas.. And i only got rid of them in order to keep the lightest of the batch or to donate to a charity fund raiser.
I currently own 4
Yeah, the "problem" is some builders like the saddles to be fairly low (and even in some cases literally bottomed out) when the bass is set up as they feel it should be. In theory, if the saddles are bottomed, they should "couple" better. Even if they're just lower, it makes the break angle of the string at the saddle a bit more polite to the windings, which usually means better performance... especially on the bigger strings (IMHO). Problem is, we're all different, and there's no one "factory" setting that'll ever be right for everyone.
On spec'ing ANY new bass build, just make sure to state right up front ALL your requirements. The ability to set the action very low should be one of them.
I've had seven AC's thus far and I've shimmed a few of them. Shimming doesn't bother me at all -- I like the action low enough in the upper positions that, to me, it makes a lot of sense.
My 12th fret measurement is similar to Chef's -- if not a hair lower. I also keep the necks almost straight with just a hint of relief.
I've never had a bad AC. I've only sold the ones that I have to fund other ones.
I've never had a bass with Jimmy wood, so I can't comment.
I'm sure there are ones that are better and worse than others. It's like that with any brand at any price. I've not had any that I would call 'duds' by any stretch though.
Right on... thanks you guys!
My main issue is that I'm a lefty, so if I do order one of these basses, I am 100% stuck with it.
Getting a dealer to take it if I don't like it, just isn't going to happen, unfortunately.
So... even though I kind of already knew the answers to a lot of my questions, I suppose I was just looking for some reassurance if/when I bite the bullet and make this happen.
Thanks again... and if anyone else wants to comment, I'm all ears!
My main issue is that I'm a lefty, so if I do order one of these basses, I am 100% stuck with it.
Getting a dealer to take it if I don't like it, just isn't going to happen, unfortunately.
So... even though I kind of already knew the answers to a lot of my questions, I suppose I was just looking for some reassurance if/when I bite the bullet and make this happen.
Thanks again... and if anyone else wants to comment, I'm all ears!
Chef
In Memoriam
The impression I got was no... but I'm pretty sure there was a special circumstance or two that JC and I were discussing that might be the reason for that answer.
Unfortunately, I can't get into the details right now... so it's impossible for me to say what JC would say if it were a different situation.
I'm sorry if that sounds weird... but it's the best I can do right now.
Unfortunately, I can't get into the details right now... so it's impossible for me to say what JC would say if it were a different situation.
I'm sorry if that sounds weird... but it's the best I can do right now.
Yeah, no surprise... I know this is not at all your first rodeo at the high end. The key is (as I bet you also already know) just being very meticulous about spec'ing every aspect of the build that is important to you. Make no assumptions, leave nothing to interpretation.
There are two trolls hiding under the bridge that represents any build, and their names are, Assumption, and Interpretation. Fear them, my friend... fear them. Do NOT feed them.
Chef
In Memoriam
Story of my life, unfortunately.
I totally hear what you're saying... but, in all honesty, the only time I have ever had an approval period of any kind was when a bass was already in stock at a store. And, as you can imagine, it is really, REALLY rare to come across ANYTHING more high-end than a Fender, Schecter, Musicman, or Ibanez lefty in stock anywhere.
Special orders or direct orders for a lefty are usually a big gamble for us... it really sucks.
The latest bass I ordered was a lefty LG 5-string NF from Jimmy and I´m very pleased with the playability, sound and weight. I got it right after new years eve and it´s actually becoming my favorite fretted bass that get most of my gigs besides my fretless Rob Allen. I can choose from Fodera Emperor BO, Mike Lull M5V, Unicorn Ozellman and a Fender Jazz -75.
Attachments
Very nice ursus!!
I received my LG5 last week. The 2 year wait was killer.
Olympic White, Jimmy Wood with Blocks and Binding.
I'll post pics later.
Dan
I received my LG5 last week. The 2 year wait was killer.
Olympic White, Jimmy Wood with Blocks and Binding.
I'll post pics later.
Dan
- Status
