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Club Moollon

You can order replacement guards directly from Moollon.

I believe all the guard sizes are uniform.

I’ve ordered replacement guards for both my PV and my JV.

I would just order ALL the different guards at the same time, as shipping could get pricy.
@Ultradust - Andy - I've got a nice Moollon classic jazz 4 (in Daphne blue) that I love, but I want to change out the pick guard to a different color (tortoise). My current guard is mint green, but none of the replacement guards I've tried will fit neatly onto the existing holes. What would you recommend that I do?
 
Hi guys, thanks for the bump and the ask.

Kenny's 100% correct in his above post

And while we're on the subject, I might as well be informative with details other, since this has become a very frequent ask for those acquiring pre-owned Moollons. What's more is that we finally have tortoise J-V guards back in after waiting something like a year from the supplier...Not ordering 100,000+ at a time and also Moollon guards being in a custom shape means they're both expensive and not on anyone's to-do list. But alas, it's that tort that everyone loves ;)

• 3-ply White, Mint, and Tortoise are available for the J-IV

• 3-ply Black, White, Mint, and Tortoise are available for the P-IV

• 3-ply Mint, and Tortoise are available for the J-V

• 3-ply Black, White, Mint, and Tortoise are available for the P-V

• 1-ply Black and Parchment, and 3-ply Tortoise are available for the 1951 and 1956 P-Classic IVs

Guards are all $50, except Tortoise ($60)

Shipping is $35, and more than one can indeed be ordered at a time to save on shipping.



And keep in mind: The J-V is a new shape to fit the model, but as the P-IV/P-V and J-IV guard shapes are specifically based on vintage model tracings, the shrunken size they were traced from will means that aftermarket pieces of any sort will likely not fit a Moollon perfectly...just 2mm off of a screw hole can be more than unsightly if you really try to screw one in.

Much of the above is included in the following FB post, worth bookmarking for posterity reference :
 
Does anybody know whats causing those finish cracks on my P Classic? (zoom to see better)

IMG_3726.jpg IMG_3727.jpg IMG_3707.jpg
 
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Does anybody know whats causing those finish cracks on my P Classic? (zoom to see better)

View attachment 4735425 View attachment 4735426 View attachment 4735427
That's simply nitro weather checking. The nitro is so thin that depending on the temperature the wood naturally expands and contracts. If you look at any guitar or bass with a nitro finish vintage or not this will happen over time. I live in south Florida so mine may not check as fast as from other climates.

This past December when I received mine I noticed through shipping my bass passed through Alaska when it was sub freezing. If I look closely at the finish I can see streaks all over the body. I'm guessing that if it had been there longer then coming to FL my finish would look like yours.
 
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That's simply nitro weather checking. The nitro is so thin that depending on the temperature the wood naturally expands and contracts. If you look at any guitar or bass with a nitro finish vintage or not this will happen over time. I live in south Florida so mine may not check as fast as from other climates.

This past December when I received mine I noticed through shipping my bass passed through Alaska when it was sub freezing. If I look closely at the finish I can see streaks all over the body. I'm guessing that if it had been there longer then coming to FL my finish would look like yours.

Cool! Thanks for the useful info. So I guess some more weather checking coming in the next few years...
 
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Cool! Thanks for the useful info. So I guess some more weather checking coming in the next few years...

I always thought this type of weather checking was most prevalent when the instrument changes temperature really quickly from extremely cold to warm, and the wood expands faster than the lacquer. It’s a reason many people will leave a shipped bass in the case for a day or two after receiving it and before opening it; to let the instrument acclimate/come up to room temperature more slowly and avoid the cracks in the finish.

Have you let your bass get really cold in its case during storage or transport, then immediately opened it up in a warm environment? It could’ve just taken one time for this to happen. I’d imagine putting it in the trunk and driving an hour to a gig in freezing temperatures, then immediately taking it out of the case in a warm venue could do it.

Either way, some people think it’s beautiful and pay extra for that type of relic, or create it themselves on purpose by getting their instrument super cold then immediately warm.
 
I just saw this Moollon P-IV up for sale. It has factory relic, including some weather checking.

For Sale - Moollon P Classic

this one is mine. The factory relic is SO nice. I love it. I even had YJ light relic the tort replacement guard to match it. its subtle but has a vibe. Amazing bass, I wish I was a P guy :)
 
Anyone else kinda bummed that Moollon have started adding a vintage tint to their necks? A new one I have has come out suuuuper yellow and looks quite cheesy next to actual vintage instruments. I have an older Moollon that doesn't have the tint and first in perfectly. Hoping enough people share my opinion and we can get Moollon to reverse course :)
 
Anyone else kinda bummed that Moollon have started adding a vintage tint to their necks? A new one I have has come out suuuuper yellow and looks quite cheesy next to actual vintage instruments. I have an older Moollon that doesn't have the tint and first in perfectly. Hoping enough people share my opinion and we can get Moollon to reverse course :)

I don't like the tint at all. I asked Andy about it and he said it's never changed..idk
 
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