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Dingwall Owners Club

I just sent my HX Stomp back. I just didn't like it as much as the full sized Helix. I really liked the Helix, had some pretty good gigs with it. My only issue was the excessively noticeable lag when changing patches, it would, literally, drop out for a second before it switched, but it sounded great. I'd buy another one, but if my band ever decides to go ampless, I'll probably just dive in head first and buy a Fractal Axe FX-III or a new AX model whenever that drops.

I do have a Future Impact sitting on a shelf in my studio. I haven't used it in forever, but I will never get rid of it...unless Andras comes out with a newer version, LOL!

Back on topic-I believe I still have almost a year of waiting, how about some Dingwall pics to make the wait even worse?! I'd buy an NG-3 5-string to tide me over until my basses were ready, but I can't justify spending any extra cash on basses when I still need to finish paying for the one's I ordered...:rollno::(
 
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Pictures, you say?
 

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I’ve pretty much gone down to the Stomp and the FI. One day I will figure out those pesky line 6 compressors.
The AO is just there for show right now, not using it at all.
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I'm mostly considering it as a non-amp solution for gigs. I'm pretty happy with my board and more looking for the times when I have to travel light or whatever and having a good modeling setup would be solid.

All this synth talk - has anybody tried messing with the SY-300?

I poked at it a little before deciding on the FI, but what I heard online of the sounds plus some of the smack about it not being too convincing down low crossed with the fact that I think that aesthetically it has effect-design-circa-1995 written all over it...

I'm liking the HX stuff. I got HX Effects and it is reducing my pedal board for sure.

Cool. Not in the cards right now. but I'm thinking some of the gigs it might be the right move and I'll just IEM or get stage monitors rather than use provided backline or having to share someone's rig.
 
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There's no endgame setup. There just isn't. ;)

I just had this land on my desk:
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Even though my board already looks like this:

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And now I kinda want one of these:

HX Stomp ...you know, for gigs when I can't carry my full rig or need to go light and just go IEM.

It's a never ending struggle against the forces of evil. Last year I was put on a year-long bass moratorium...and only bought two.

Yoooo the FI rules. If I sell all my pedals (never) then this one will always stay it's so much fun!
 
Love my Future Impact and use it on every gig. I also consider my Noble pre as essential.

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Nice board! I'm impatiently waiting for my Cog T-65. I had a T-16, which was outstanding, but the volume drop, which Tom rectified with the new version, was just too much of an issue. The dirty octave up on the T-65 should come in handy.

You guys are making me want to put my FI back on my board, even though I don't use it...
 
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Would like some advice on determining resale value. The Dingwall used market seems to kind of fun to figure out. In general, there seem to be some brackets that each instrument class seem to fit in. There always seem to be exceptions (perhaps due to the purchaser's desire for a certain model) and of course it is always someone else's nearly identical bass that seems to sell for more. I realize that since so many Dingwalls are "one-offs" it can come down to preference. I'm not sure how much rarity seems to come into play (this is a 1 of 12 Cocobolo bass, they made very few of them, and aren't making anymore).

So, I've had an Arbutus Burl topped AB2 for sale for a while. I recently found out my bass teacher got an NG2 so I struck up a conversation where he related almost putting in for a Super J5 if it wasn't for the 18 month wait. I tried to steer him to a few available here, but he has decided his budget is less than half of what many are going for. I did loan him my Super PJ 4 just so he could play it, then he stopped over and played the rest for fun. He knew the Arbutus AB2 was for sale, but he preferred my Cocobolo AB2, mainly because it has a slightly deeper personality. It is subtle, especially after a set of new strings, but it is there. I decided that since I was playing my Redwood AB2 more, I'd sell it.

Now the core question:
This bass has been around the block a bit. There is a hefty thumb wear spot on the neck pickup, a wear spot on the back by the battery cover and nicks and dings all around (though I haven't really noticed any on the neck while playing), but to me in a natural setting (not with your eyeballs 2" from the surface) it still looks beautiful. The pickup and neck screws also have corrosion on them, though I have replacements and have installed a new back plate. When you factor it in on an instrument like this, how much does that knock it down compared to what pretty clean basses go for with the same features?
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Any advice is appreciated.
 
I am always really surprised at asking sale prices and even new prices. Most new instruments seem to have gone up a significant amount in the last few years as well. Mine seemed expensive at the times I bought them, but looking at Dingwall new and resale prices now, I think I did well.

Somewhere between $1800 - $2500 (US) for that Cocobolo AB2? I don't know...
 
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I am always really surprised and asking sale prices and even new prices. Most new instruments seem to have gone up a significant amount in the last few years as well. Mine seemed expensive at the times I bought them, but looking at Dingwall new and resale prices now, I think I did well.

Somewhere between $1800 - $2500 (US) for that Cocobolo AB2? I don't know...

I agree - price range really seems to fluctuate and it isn't all about what it has. It also seems like the pricey extras (contrast layer, sometimes even the exotic top, seem to be overlooked when comparing prices). That alone is hard, then trying to come up with a "percentage off" for dings or what have you. There does seem to be a love affair with the rounded pickups and particularly 3x. I sometimes wonder if Combustions and NG2s haven't messed with the used Canadian models pricing, especially the older ones.

If I do sell this one, I hope I don't kick myself later. Once I found out that mandolin frets are now only on the Sklars, I wish I'd have kept the one I had in my hands briefly. Meanwhile I should just spend more time practicing...
 
When I got my Prima, I made a bit of an effort to sell one of my AB1s. I gave up - the offers and what people want to pay for "older" (i.e. non-round shell, or non-3x) Canadian basses is pretty low. I'd rather just keep it at that point than get less than $2k for it. I was getting offers between $1500 and $1600 on it. Doesn't bother me much, and does make the case that people can get into Canadian Dingwalls cheaper now.
 
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Would like some advice on determining resale value. The Dingwall used market seems to kind of fun to figure out. In general, there seem to be some brackets that each instrument class seem to fit in. There always seem to be exceptions (perhaps due to the purchaser's desire for a certain model) and of course it is always someone else's nearly identical bass that seems to sell for more. I realize that since so many Dingwalls are "one-offs" it can come down to preference. I'm not sure how much rarity seems to come into play (this is a 1 of 12 Cocobolo bass, they made very few of them, and aren't making anymore).

So, I've had an Arbutus Burl topped AB2 for sale for a while. I recently found out my bass teacher got an NG2 so I struck up a conversation where he related almost putting in for a Super J5 if it wasn't for the 18 month wait. I tried to steer him to a few available here, but he has decided his budget is less than half of what many are going for. I did loan him my Super PJ 4 just so he could play it, then he stopped over and played the rest for fun. He knew the Arbutus AB2 was for sale, but he preferred my Cocobolo AB2, mainly because it has a slightly deeper personality. It is subtle, especially after a set of new strings, but it is there. I decided that since I was playing my Redwood AB2 more, I'd sell it.

Now the core question:
This bass has been around the block a bit. There is a hefty thumb wear spot on the neck pickup, a wear spot on the back by the battery cover and nicks and dings all around (though I haven't really noticed any on the neck while playing), but to me in a natural setting (not with your eyeballs 2" from the surface) it still looks beautiful. The pickup and neck screws also have corrosion on them, though I have replacements and have installed a new back plate. When you factor it in on an instrument like this, how much does that knock it down compared to what pretty clean basses go for with the same features?
Invalid Link Removed

Any advice is appreciated.
Only because of the very noticeable signs of wear, I'd say $2,200 max. I recently purchased an absolute mint AB2 - bubinga top, bubinga neck, wenge fingerboard, and walnut body for $2,250. Early AB IIs have outstanding woods and are generally a real bargain if they can be purchased for the price of a new NG3 or lower. They are superior to the NGs in craftsmanship, being made in Canada vs. China, and the wood choices made by Sheldon and Co were exceptional on these models. Some of the woods, like bubinga, are now in the CITES list.
 
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Only because of the very noticeable signs of wear, I'd say $2,200 max. I recently purchased an absolute mint AB2 - bubinga top, bubinga neck, wenge fingerboard, and walnut body for $2,250. Early AB IIs have outstanding woods and are generally a real bargain if they can be purchased for the price of a new NG3 or lower. They are superior to the NGs in craftsmanship, being made in Canada vs. China, and the wood choices made by Sheldon and Co were exceptional on these models. Some of the woods, like bubinga, are now in the CITES list.

Yeah - I saw that one. I think they were waiting on a better offer on Reverb. I think that one was underpriced, in my opinion. Good deal for you. Only reason I didn't jump is I already have a fretless just like it.
 
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Nice board! I'm impatiently waiting for my Cog T-65. I had a T-16, which was outstanding, but the volume drop, which Tom rectified with the new version, was just too much of an issue. The dirty octave up on the T-65 should come in handy.

You guys are making me want to put my FI back on my board, even though I don't use it...
You are going to LOVE your T-65. :bassist::bassist:
 
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