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Dingwall Owners Club

Ok. Here are the details on the Dingwall I would like, which I may be able to begin in 2020. I'm just thinking/dreaming aloud.

AZB6
Add the 3rd pickup
Darkglass Electronics
Series/Parallel Switches
Maple Burl or Flame Maple top in Amethyst Burst (I was interested in Maple Burl but if that classifies as an X-top it is a much more expensive add-on, compared to Flame Maple.)
Wenge Neck
Ziricote Fretboard
"D" Inlay on the 12th Fret

Are there any other details I might be overlooking? Any suggestions?
 
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Ok. Here are the details on the Dingwall I would like, which I may be able to begin in 2020. I'm just thinking/dreaming aloud.

AZB6
Add the 3rd pickup
Darkglass Electronics
Series/Parallel Switches
Maple Burl or Flame Maple top in Amethyst Burst (I was interested in Maple Burl but if that classifies as an X-top it is a much more expensive add-on, compared to Flame Maple.)
Wenge Neck
Ziricote Fretboard
"D" Inlay on the 12th Fret

Are there any other details I might be overlooking? Any suggestions?

-Maple burl would be X top value from my understanding.
- what material would you do the D in and would you have low dots on the rest of the board or speedo bars?

Sounds like you’ve got it pretty well sorted. Would you have any contrast layers?
 
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Ok. Here are the details on the Dingwall I would like, which I may be able to begin in 2020. I'm just thinking/dreaming aloud.

AZB6
Add the 3rd pickup
Darkglass Electronics
Series/Parallel Switches
Maple Burl or Flame Maple top in Amethyst Burst (I was interested in Maple Burl but if that classifies as an X-top it is a much more expensive add-on, compared to Flame Maple.)
Wenge Neck
Ziricote Fretboard
"D" Inlay on the 12th Fret

Are there any other details I might be overlooking? Any suggestions?

Contrast layers ie:
These
0A56E133-40B8-4C0F-88A3-10C92A42E50D.jpeg
EB911138-7E2C-476E-AF8F-42F1CB2375EF.jpeg
9912FA4A-4893-46D5-A6F2-3FF6505AD5D4.jpeg


I almost did the maple cut through the dark paint on my next build but the budget is already maxed.
 
Let’s go back to the beginning.

... It all started with a blue swirl NG3(?) on a da and stormy night.
:D Ah, you know me all too well. The NG3 was the gateway, and my Z3 was what locked it in.

That AB1 just keeps haunting me though. The "sunset" color and the wenge/wenge neck with luminlay side dots AND speedo bars. Hmmm... Maybe a Go-Fund-Me page? :smug: :cool: ;)
 
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-Maple burl would be X top value from my understanding.
- what material would you do the D in and would you have low dots on the rest of the board or speedo bars?

Sounds like you’ve got it pretty well sorted. Would you have any contrast layers?
I suppose it depends on the selection of Ziricote, if it has nice figuring or grains. That was the reason for selecting only the D inlay. Otherwise speedo bars look good. Are side dots standard with Dingwall?
 
I don't like your friends odds of finding such a desirable bass used, I wish him luck. FWIW, Show Me has a Super J in the pipeline that is just about ready to go into build. He could get that spot and change the specs.

A point of curiosity regarding the blocks/speedo bars/plain fretboard, do you all feel there is an inherent advantage to either? For me, I only use the blocks when I'm learning a song (most likely seated where I can see them). Once I know it, and playing while standing, I don't look at them, and can't see them much if I do, that's what the side dots are for, right? Just curious.
 
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I don't like your friends odds of finding such a desirable bass used, I wish him luck. FWIW, Show Me has a Super J in the pipeline that is just about ready to go into build. He could get that spot and change the specs.

A point of curiosity regarding the blocks/speedo bars/plain fretboard, do you all feel there is an inherent advantage to either? For me, I only use the blocks when I'm learning a song (most likely seated where I can see them). Once I know it, and playing while standing, I don't look at them, and can't see them much if I do, that's what the side dots are for, right? Just curious.

I think this is very situational. I do give a nod of reference to the speedo bars on my Z 6 at times but depends what and where on the neck im playing. The blocks give a more "solid" reference point for sure but that is on my SJ where I think I don't spend as much time looking down as I run through tapping style playing less.
Im about to experience the most Naked FB I've had in my life so I think I'll really find out how much stock I put into Fb markings. I do like the vertical positioning of the speedo bars as it changes along the fretboard but I do also like the bold notification of the blocks. When I had the bottom dots I don't think I referenced them all that much.
 
The last one I recall was @MDBass s white one. pretty rare bird I think still.

As far as I know mine is the only four string that has been made in that configuration: it’s an amazing bass, and now has a new home where it’s still getting played a ton.

Couldn’t have asked for a better first Dingwall spec.
 
I don't like your friends odds of finding such a desirable bass used, I wish him luck. FWIW, Show Me has a Super J in the pipeline that is just about ready to go into build. He could get that spot and change the specs.

A point of curiosity regarding the blocks/speedo bars/plain fretboard, do you all feel there is an inherent advantage to either? For me, I only use the blocks when I'm learning a song (most likely seated where I can see them). Once I know it, and playing while standing, I don't look at them, and can't see them much if I do, that's what the side dots are for, right? Just curious.

My first two Dingwall Afterburners have no fretboard inlays. It never seemed like a problem as the side dots were high contrast and easy to use. When I got my SJ5, with the fretboard dots, I found it more difficult on the AB's. Since then they have added the treble side dots. The problem I find with those (I have them on my Combustion) is that they're too small and are obscured by the G-string when standing.

I am contemplating having bars added to at least one AB. Maybe just on the treble side and not the "hump".

The difficulty of not having any fretboard markers is jumping up high from the lower register.