Dingwall Owners Club

[Charlzm]

Hey @Charlzm Can you show us any photos of the neck relief and the bridge set?
What strings are you using?

Here's my Afterburner's B string height at the 7th fret with capos on both ends of the neck:

And here's the string height at the same location without the capos:

There's not much to show at the bridge: string height screws are all the way down.

For comparison, here's my Combustion's un-capo'd string height at the same location:

Both basses are strung with these:

 

[Bassheart365]

That looks sweet! How do the frets feel compared to the banjo frets?

If you want it to slap and pop like a jazz bass, you gotta have medium jumbo frets. At least the way I do it.

 

[reddavid]

Here's my Afterburner's B string height at the 7th fret with capos on both ends of the neck:
View attachment 3331828

And here's the string height at the same location without the capos:
View attachment 3331829

There's not much to show at the bridge: string height screws are all the way down.
View attachment 3331830

View attachment 3331831

For comparison, here's my Combustion's un-capo'd string height at the same location:
View attachment 3331832

Both basses are strung with these:
View attachment 3331833

That looks like a lot of relief in the neck. I always thought you only wanted to be able to slip a business card or 2 between the string and fret. Sheldon also has shorter screws for the bridge if you need them. Hope you get this resolved!

 

[Bassheart365]

Here's my Afterburner's B string height at the 7th fret with capos on both ends of the neck:
View attachment 3331828

And here's the string height at the same location without the capos:
View attachment 3331829

There's not much to show at the bridge: string height screws are all the way down.
View attachment 3331830

View attachment 3331831

For comparison, here's my Combustion's un-capo'd string height at the same location:
View attachment 3331832

Both basses are strung with these:
View attachment 3331833

Way too much bow in the neck. Needs a serious truss rod adjustment.

 

[BurningSkies]

Man, I want that...

Ish Guitars - A Curated Collection of Fine Instruments

2000’s Fury Tornado Fretless Signed Cherry Sunburst


I can vouch for Jesse...

 

[IvanBassist]

If you want it to slap and pop like a jazz bass, you gotta have medium jumbo frets. At least the way I do it.

Is there a chance to hear some samples?

 

[TolerancEJ]

I believe that's the amethyst burst?

Great! What top do you think was used?

 

[Waltsdog]

Great! What top do you think was used?

Maple Burl like this one:

There are a couple in the wood room on the website Invalid Link Removed

 

[Charlzm]

Way too much bow in the neck. Needs a serious truss rod adjustment.

Exactly. But the truss rod is maxed out.

 

[Charlzm]

That looks like a lot of relief in the neck. I always thought you only wanted to be able to slip a business card or 2 between the string and fret. Sheldon also has shorter screws for the bridge if you need them. Hope you get this resolved!

I didn't know about shorter bridge screws. Thanks for the info!

 

[TolerancEJ]

Maple Burl like this one:
View attachment 3331935

There are a couple in the wood room on the website Invalid Link Removed

Thanks! Just itemizing all the features I want in a future Dingwall.

 

[BuffaloBob4343]

Really nice! would love to hear some sample of that creature!

Amen to that brotha!!

 

[deff]

I was afraid of that. Oh, well - I guess it's off to my favorite tech.

I think that is the best option, without knowing if you have checked the amount of neck relief with a straight edge, its impossible to give guidance. If the neck is bowed and your truss rod is maxed out, it'll need to be loosened, gently manuvered and reset to see if the rod will hold it straight at that tension. One can also add a washer or something additionally can be done to add throw to the rod.

All that being said, if you've checked that there is little or slight relief in the neck already and the action is still too high then a neck shim would be in order.

 

[Charlzm]

I think that is the best option, without knowing if you have checked the amount of neck relief with a straight edge, its impossible to give guidance. If the neck is bowed and your truss rod is maxed out, it'll need to be loosened, gently manuvered and reset to see if the rod will hold it straight at that tension. One can also add a washer or something additionally can be done to add throw to the rod.

All that being said, if you've checked that there is little or slight relief in the neck already and the action is still too high then a neck shim would be in order.

Look up the thread for pictures.

 

[Bassheart365]

Is there a chance to hear some samples?

I'm out of town for a few days on business but will get some clips up eventually.

 

[DiabolusInMusic]

Question for those more knowledgeable about setups than me: the action on my AB is too high.
I have tried to do my own setup and discovered the truss rod is maxed out (it won't turn any more clockwise) and the saddles are already as low as they go. What's my next move?

If your saddles cannot go any lower, time to add a shim. You do have quite a bit of relief. If the truss rod won't move, you will need to add some washers. If you are not comfortable with this, talk to a tech. This shouldn't be a big job for a pro.

 

[AB Nate]

Look up the thread for pictures.

I’d say it’s time to take it to a tech. Perhaps one that is skilled with heat pressure if needed.

Curious how your humidity is. If it’s change much with winter and perhaps you could try to reverse the effects with some humidity. Even slightly.

I'm out of town for a few days on business but will get some clips up eventually.

I guess I’ll just have to keep on reminding you then.

 

[Sheldon D.]

Using the YouTube videos as a guide, I did get the neck flatter (there was still about a quarter turn of adjustment left in the truss rod), the action lower and the intonation pretty damned close. However, I have been living with the bass as-is for a month or two and the strings are still just too high.

Try adding another 1/8 turn to the truss rod. It sounds like it's getting tight. Not a big deal, just make sure your wrench is in good shape and fully engaged. You can also loosen the strings to slack so the truss rod doesn't have as much tension working against it while you're adjusting.

As a last resort, your tech can order a full-contact tapered neck shim from us. They are CNC machined and laser cut. Very precise.

Edit: I just saw your photo with the rule measuring relief. That's too much. It's not likely the rod is maxed out but it may feel very tight. Have a tech take a look.

 

[deff]

Look up the thread for pictures.

Yes I saw them thanks. However this isn't what I suggested. Height at the 7th fret can be affected by the height at the nut even. Laying a long straight edge down the length of the fingerboard is how to determine how much bow is in the neck. Comparing 7th fret height from one bass to another just says that one's higher than the other, not why.

 

[Waltsdog]

Yes I saw them thanks. However this isn't what I suggested. Height at the 7th fret can be affected by the height at the nut even. Laying a long straight edge down the length of the fingerboard is how to determine how much bow is in the neck. Comparing 7th fret height from one bass to another just says that one's higher than the other, not why.

@Charlzm said above the first image is "B string height at the 7th fret with capos on both ends of the neck". He has 2mm of relief with the truss maxed out.
The truss rod is way out of whack and has no adjustment left, needs looking at by a pro.