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Dingwall Owners Club

For those who have had a custom build done, how long does it actually take to do the build? I know the wait time is 16-18 months, but how far into that do they actually start work on it?

I remember the actual build time being 6 months or less. But that was a few years back and with some fairly extensive customizations.
 
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Ugh. Currently Mo is dealing with some problems with the Graphtech piezo saddles on my Combustion super-fretless. Some of the saddles had intermittent level issues and the A-string has not so intermittent level problems. We were literally at the final 'test to make sure we're all set' phase of the project.

Now we're doing some back-and-forth with graphtech...will they cover under warranty, will they not, etc. and depending I may need to purchase a second set of ABM saddles and we may have to re-do that part of things.

Mo is totally awesome and none of this is his fault...just how things unfolded. Waiting to hear if they'll honor the 1 year warranty because I don't believe the place I bought them is a 'dealer' but an online re-seller.
 
Not a fan of little switches, I’d much rather have a push/pull function on a knob. And only on the knobs furthest from normal right hand position.

The blue eqube control on my AB sixer was push pull on the tone knob. Nice and clean.

I wouldn’t mind having the same on my new AB-1 four string, or the hybrid tone like the Super P.

It has been a while since I had a straight up tone knob.
 
For those who have had a custom build done, how long does it actually take to do the build? I know the wait time is 16-18 months, but how far into that do they actually start work on it?

I want to say 6-7 months from due date, not sure though. If you want to make changes just contact them (or your dealer) and ask. I took over a custom build order last month that Jason had through Fret Nation and I changed everything but the color. :laugh: Should be ready Oct - Nov.

I’d say leaving a build window of 6-7 months is probably pretty close. Leaving room for materials that don’t cooperate and whatnot I think should be/ is a factor.
But then again if we are talking a basic ABZ vs a balls out prima there is obviously a significant difference in the amount of work involved.
 
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After having the NG-3 for a few hours I must say that I already found a little flaw: The bass made me stay up late to play bass, getting not much sleep and being late at work. Luckily I have very flexible working hours. :D

Also I must say that Ducati White looks great on pictures but so much better in real life. And it plays even better than I expected. The fanned frets instantly felt natural. I’m so glad I bought this bass and I make @MDBass and his videos a bit responsible for this. But I guess this is a good thing. :)
 
After having the NG-3 for a few hours I must say that I already found a little flaw: The bass made me stay up late to play bass, getting not much sleep and being late at work. Luckily I have very flexible working hours. :D

Also I must say that Ducati White looks great on pictures but so much better in real life. And it plays even better than I expected. The fanned frets instantly felt natural. I’m so glad I bought this bass and I make @MDBass and his videos a bit responsible for this. But I guess this is a good thing. :)

I’ll gladly take credit for your recent acquisition...and get to work sponsoring your next one ;)
 
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Rap with me a bit, Dingwall brethren. I'm having doubts about being able to get the kind of tone I want when recording with my AB. While it does sound really good through an amp and cab and/or with a lot of drive, processing and gain, I'm having issues finding a clean tone that works for me. At least when recording direct or through an XLR. I've yet had the opportunity to amp/reamp a clean signal.

There is definitely no doubt I'm getting a high fidelity full range tone, but I'm finding it lacks a bit of character to sit well in the mix. I've mostly been using the N/B combo with pickups internally in series. I've tried the M/B w PUs in parallel, but I'm having mixed results. While the initial transient and attack of the notes in this mode are quick and responsive, I find that the fundamental has a tendency to not resonate the way I want (abstract, I know). In the N/B mode, I find that the tone sits better in the mix, but that the mids are not adding any character to the tone. Ironic, considering my bass is solid Bubinga and Wenge, two very mid focused woods.

I have been considering a pickup swap to the FDVs, as it might be the case of the FD3s being a bit too modern for my taste. I like a warmer, more vintage/mid focused response rather than sharp and detailed modern one.

Again, I need to attempt recording with my amp and cab miced up before I make any changes, but I'm also looking for feedback from the Dingwall people here who mainly play their Dingwalls with clean tones.
 
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@The_Owl

I've had good results dialing the high and low mids back a bit. I have an NG-2, so different electronics.. but your description mirrored my experiences recording that bass. I now turn down the low mid knob a tiny bit, a little bit more on the high mid knob. You AB is passive right? I bet this can be solved using a decent EQ plugin.

I like to boost with a narrow Q to find the "wrong" sounding frequencies, then turn them down a bit. Usually works really good, but the frequencies are different for every bass (and every song arrangement, too).
 
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The D-Bird Standard has the humbuckers wired in series, here is a gutshot:
Here's another difference between the Standard and Custom D Birds under the hood.
 
Rap with me a bit, Dingwall brethren. I'm having doubts about being able to get the kind of tone I want when recording with my AB. While it does sound really good through an amp and cab and/or with a lot of drive, processing and gain, I'm having issues finding a clean tone that works for me. At least when recording direct or through an XLR. I've yet had the opportunity to amp/reamp a clean signal.

There is definitely no doubt I'm getting a high fidelity full range tone, but I'm finding it lacks a bit of character to sit well in the mix. I've mostly been using the N/B combo with pickups internally in series. I've tried the M/B w PUs in parallel, but I'm having mixed results. While the initial transient and attack of the notes in this mode are quick and responsive, I find that the fundamental has a tendency to not resonate the way I want (abstract, I know). In the N/B mode, I find that the tone sits better in the mix, but that the mids are not adding any character to the tone. Ironic, considering my bass is solid Bubinga and Wenge, two very mid focused woods.

I have been considering a pickup swap to the FDVs, as it might be the case of the FD3s being a bit too modern for my taste. I like a warmer, more vintage/mid focused response rather than sharp and detailed modern one.

Again, I need to attempt recording with my amp and cab miced up before I make any changes, but I'm also looking for feedback from the Dingwall people here who mainly play their Dingwalls with clean tones.

If you swap the pu’s out with Nordstrand’s, it’ll fix the tone issues you are having. It completely changed my Dingwall’s.