Dingwall Owners Club

[Peter Lufrano]

That's gonna look sweet.

Thank you! I’m having Mo make a few different ones that I can choose from. But I already like the looks of this one even in its rough form.

 

[AB Nate]

Thank you! I’m having Mo make a few different ones that I can choose from. But I already like the looks of this one even in its rough form.

It’s toight!!!

Being a white shade like that with the blocks too you could almost put any color on the pickgaurd and it would look good. A pearloid Gold would be off the charts!! And that’s not me, I didn’t just say that!

But it’s true. Gold or caramel would go soooo sweet with the off white.

 

[AB Nate]

Yeah you cant really get a few wraps on the ABs though, they're different than the super series or z series. They've got countersunk tuning machines with a scalloped post designed to hold the single wrap at a low angle. Sheldon has definitely put some serious engineering into remediating this issue without string trees, but it's still there. It was sort of a common issue on my super series basses with the a string too but I never really worried about it cause it doesn't come through the amp. It's just been bothering me a bit playing unplugged and a little bit more break angle closer to the nut would definitely solve the problem.

I did have this issue on my old SJ but I added the string tree and it solve me it with no further concern. Just outta curiosity i’d like to hear back if you try the shrink tube how it plays on your issue

 

[Waltsdog]

Yeah you cant really get a few wraps on the ABs though, they're different than the super series or z series. They've got countersunk tuning machines with a scalloped post designed to hold the single wrap at a low angle. Sheldon has definitely put some serious engineering into remediating this issue without string trees, but it's still there. It was sort of a common issue on my super series basses with the a string too but I never really worried about it cause it doesn't come through the amp. It's just been bothering me a bit playing unplugged and a little bit more break angle closer to the nut would definitely solve the problem.

You can get 3 wraps on the ABZ posts, here is mine.

 

[AB Nate]

Lovely Wenge grain

 

[dtsamples]

But isn’t the lowest wrap sitting in the groove? I can’t get wraps any lower than that groove regardless of how many are atop it. 1.5 seems to be all that should be necessary. I don’t see the angle changing at all otherwise. I could be wrong for sure, just trying to think through it.

You can get 3 wraps on the ABZ posts, here is mine.
View attachment 3417633

 

[Waltsdog]

But isn’t the lowest wrap sitting in the groove? I can’t get wraps any lower than that groove regardless of how many are atop it. 1.5 seems to be all that should be necessary. I don’t see the angle changing at all otherwise. I could be wrong for sure, just trying to think through it.

It’s been a while since I changed the strings on that one but I’m fairly sure there is no groove on mine. The strings are as low as they’ll go. Flat against the base of the tuner. The extra wraps keep it pinned down.
If yours has some sorta groove in the tuner then that should be sufficient.

I had to add a string tree to my Super J as the A would buzz like crazy when I used a smaller gauge of string. Was fine with regular gauge though.
I suspect you have the same symptoms, try the shrink wrap thing that Nate suggested (I used a scrap of vinyl decal in the nut slot which eliminated the buzz). I went with a string tree rather than get a new nut cut as it was a Super. Had it been my ABZ I would have tried a new nut first.

 

[IvanBassist]

Did you cut them to length before installation?

DR's are round core and if you do not kink them before cutting them the wrap will slide from the core resulting in them sounding like dead flats. Read the inside of your DR Strings box for more information.

Yep. I've used DRs before. They sounded fine the first few days, but they died super fast.

 

[xnewyorka]

Anyone here put a string tree on their AB? Getting an open string rattle on my E and A that goes away if I hold the strings behind the nut. Thinking about putting a Super series tree on it but don’t know if there’s any physics I should consider first or if it’s safe to just pop one on where it makes sense.

Make sure you kink your string 90 degrees with needlenose pliers at a point 4" past the tuning head, then cut the string about 3/4" past that point. That will ensure you have sufficient wraps to have the string coming off the tuner shaft right down next to the headstock. Did you do that?

Also, have the nut slots been filed wider than factory, making them now too wide for the current strings?

While I am busy passing out free restringing tips, here is another that I have never seen written down anywhere. Surely someone else must have thought of this besides me, but I haven't seen it:
After you install the ball end of the string onto the bridge and pull the string in the direction of the headstock, clamp it at around the 12th fret or so with a capo. Suddenly the rest of the process becomes magically a whole lot easier to manage. Repeat for each string. Also works for multiple strings at a time if you are doing it that way, for example when you don't need to clean or oil your fingerboard. If you don't have a capo handy, a fret wrap or velcro cable tie will also work.
If I could receive 50 cents from each person who tries this technique, smiles ear-to-ear at how much it helps, and wonders why they didn't think of it themselves years ago, I could retire and start practicing more.

 

[johnsonabq]

Yeah you cant really get a few wraps on the ABs though, they're different than the super series or z series. They've got countersunk tuning machines with a scalloped post designed to hold the single wrap at a low angle. Sheldon has definitely put some serious engineering into remediating this issue without string trees, but it's still there. It was sort of a common issue on my super series basses with the a string too but I never really worried about it cause it doesn't come through the amp. It's just been bothering me a bit playing unplugged and a little bit more break angle closer to the nut would definitely solve the problem.

I'll admit I don't have an AB... yet. Should be here this fall. If you are taking the winds down as far as you can then that's all you can do. Too bad, the string tree on my NG3 was the only thing I didn't like about that bass.

 

[DiabolusInMusic]

Yeah you cant really get a few wraps on the ABs though, they're different than the super series or z series. They've got countersunk tuning machines with a scalloped post designed to hold the single wrap at a low angle. Sheldon has definitely put some serious engineering into remediating this issue without string trees, but it's still there. It was sort of a common issue on my super series basses with the a string too but I never really worried about it cause it doesn't come through the amp. It's just been bothering me a bit playing unplugged and a little bit more break angle closer to the nut would definitely solve the problem.

The recessed tuners negate the need for a string tree by allowing for a better break angle without angling the headstock. You shouldn't need a string tree. It is either the nut or a lack of wraps. I shoot for 2-3 wraps on the A and 2 on the E. Try a paper shim in the nut to see if it is just the slots.

 

[dtsamples]

Ok so just to recap, those who’ve experienced this issue before have solved it with a string tree, like on the old super series basses that had countersunk tuning machines similar to the AB, but no one has yet tried a string tree on their AB?

 

[Waltsdog]

Yes, but to be clear a tighter fitting nut also solved the problem. A string tree was cheaper than a new nut in the case of my Super J and fitted the bass.
Everyone is steering toward another solution as putting a string tree on your Afterburner will devalue it and IMO look cheap, wrong or just bad.

 

[AB Nate]

Ok so just to recap, those who’ve experienced this issue before have solved it with a string tree, like on the old super series basses that had countersunk tuning machines similar to the AB, but no one has yet tried a string tree on their AB?

One thing to keep in mind too with the super series string tree, is it is manufactured for the supers. There may( I have no idea on this) be a height difference between where you would apply in on a super vs on an AB. If you proceed with it, it could be a bit taller then required or it could require a spacer shim to bring it up a bit. IIRC it’s only held in with about 1/4” of thread and if too much tension is applied by it being significantly lower then the break angle you could end up ripping it out of the head stock from the string tension against the tree. I truly have no idea on this, it’s just a thought I had from a construction perspective. 1/4” of grab is not a lot especially when talking tensile stress.

That concern leads me back to nut replacement first and foremost

 

[AB Nate]

Make sure you kink your string 90 degrees with needlenose pliers at a point 4" past the tuning head, then cut the string about 3/4" past that point. That will ensure you have sufficient wraps to have the string coming off the tuner shaft right down next to the headstock. Did you do that?

Also, have the nut slots been filed wider than factory, making them now too wide for the current strings?

While I am busy passing out free restringing tips, here is another that I have never seen written down anywhere. Surely someone else must have thought of this besides me, but I haven't seen it:
After you install the ball end of the string onto the bridge and pull the string in the direction of the headstock, clamp it at around the 12th fret or so with a capo. Suddenly the rest of the process becomes magically a whole lot easier to manage. Repeat for each string. Also works for multiple strings at a time if you are doing it that way, for example when you don't need to clean or oil your fingerboard. If you don't have a capo handy, a fret wrap or velcro cable tie will also work.
If I could receive 50 cents from each person who tries this technique, smiles ear-to-ear at how much it helps, and wonders why they didn't think of it themselves years ago, I could retire and start practicing more.

Am I the only person who strings from the tuner first and then slides the ballends into the bridge?

 

[groovaholic]

Am I the only person who strings from the tuner first and then slides the ballends into the bridge?

You can add twist to the string that way, which can cause some intonation issues with the string

 

[spiritbass]

Am I the only person who strings from the tuner first and then slides the ballends into the bridge?

That's how I've always done it. Never a twisted string.

 

[xnewyorka]

Am I the only person who strings from the tuner first and then slides the ballends into the bridge?

If not the only, then perhaps one of the few.

 

[spiritbass]

You can add twist to the string that way, which can cause some intonation issues with the string

Can you elucidate, please?

 

[AB Nate]

You can add twist to the string that way, which can cause some intonation issues with the string

It minimizes twist this way. Twist happens the more the string wraps around the the tuning peg... by prewrapping the tuning peg and inserting into bring at latest possible moment twist is reduced