• TalkBass has been independent since 1998. Add your voice.
    Create a free account to reply to discussions, view embedded media, and browse with fewer display ads.
    Join freeLog in
    Want zero display ads or expanded classifieds tools? Compare plans.

Dingwall Owners Club

I'm probably recording on Friday night. We'll be trying the DI+miced amp and cab thing in our rehearsal space (Sunn 300T and Epifani UL410). If I'm still not happy with the tone, some changes will be incoming... :)

Miced cabs can be an issue, especially when they build nests or chew through the wires. Of course bass cabs are tastier. :D
 
Last edited:
Hi Sheldon, and thanks for the suggestion.
I did it but it nothing changed unfortunately.
Gave a second 1/8 turn and still no effect - except that now the action is also starting to be just a tad too high for my taste.

Any advice on what to do next ?
Keeping in mind that it's difficult to find a qualified tech in the area, so if it's something I can do/test myself it's infinitely better :)

put something under the E and A string, between nut and string. To simulate a not-so-deeply cut nut slot... a tiny piece of business card or whatever should do. If the buzzing disappears, you need a new nut.
 
Hi Sheldon, and thanks for the suggestion.
I did it but it nothing changed unfortunately.
Gave a second 1/8 turn and still no effect - except that now the action is also starting to be just a tad too high for my taste.

Any advice on what to do next ?
Keeping in mind that it's difficult to find a qualified tech in the area, so if it's something I can do/test myself it's infinitely better :)

a common fix for a low nut slot is to put down a tiny drop of super glue and then sprinkle on a little baking soda.
 
I'm not sure if I've read all of the posts on this but in our setup series, there's a test to check your nut height. Fret at the 2nd fret and compare the gap over the 1st fret to the gap over the 2nd fret when simultaineously fretting the 1st and 3rd frets. The gap over the 1st fret should be slightly more than the gap over the 2nd. If the gap over the 1st fret is less than the 2nd, the nut slot is too low. Get me that data and I will advise on what to do next.

I guess they look about the same, but frankly it's so tiny that I would not trust my (aging) eyes on this.
Is there an easy way to measure it ?
Maybe plastigauge or something ?

put something under the E and A string, between nut and string. To simulate a not-so-deeply cut nut slot... a tiny piece of business card or whatever should do. If the buzzing disappears, you need a new nut.

Did that already, and yes the buzz disappears.

a common fix for a low nut slot is to put down a tiny drop of super glue and then sprinkle on a little baking soda.

Yeah well the nut is new because the bass is new, but sure I could try and avoid any cyanoacrylate dropping on my wenge fingerboard .. :eek:
 
  • Like
Reactions: djaxup
I guess they look about the same, but frankly it's so tiny that I would not trust my (aging) eyes on this.
Is there an easy way to measure it ?
Maybe plastigauge or something ?



Did that already, and yes the buzz disappears.



Yeah well the nut is new because the bass is new, but sure I could try and avoid any cyanoacrylate dropping on my wenge fingerboard .. :eek:
Jeez, dude, mistakes happen. And you can put a little masking tape or blue painters tape on the fingerboard so you don’t get glue anywhere but the nut.
 
Another option (less susceptible to string wear and also less danger from CA drips) is to remove the nut and build up a couple thin layers of superglue on the underside of the E/A end.

Basically a permanent, paper-thin shim.

I’d agree that it stinks to need this on a new bass, but this issue probably didn’t show up until you got the bass and set it up to your liking; the issue probably didn’t present itself with more relief in the neck and the bridge saddles set higher.

I also like a really easy-playing bass, so I’ve run into the same several times - but generally coming from the other side (the nut needed to be filed lower)
I guess they look about the same, but frankly it's so tiny that I would not trust my (aging) eyes on this.
Is there an easy way to measure it ?
Maybe plastigauge or something ?



Did that already, and yes the buzz disappears.



Yeah well the nut is new because the bass is new, but sure I could try and avoid any cyanoacrylate dropping on my wenge fingerboard .. :eek:
 
  • Like
Reactions: djaxup
Dingwall Guitars on Instagram: “@jacobumansky acob Umansky test drives the new D-Roc Custom and shares his thoughts. Song Tittle"Leave No Stone" by @aaronintervals”

I say 100% jokingly - but somebody ought to tell Jacob to try letting the D-Roc hang lower ;) he's driving a Lamborghini at the speed limit!
I liked position 3 - middle the best.
Cool lookin bass....I assume he plays it like that for hand ergonomics and less strain(?)
Regardless ...great video. Thx for sharing
 
  • Like
Reactions: TolerancEJ
I guess they look about the same, but frankly it's so tiny that I would not trust my (aging) eyes on this.
Is there an easy way to measure it ?
Maybe plastigauge or something ?



Did that already, and yes the buzz disappears.



Yeah well the nut is new because the bass is new, but sure I could try and avoid any cyanoacrylate dropping on my wenge fingerboard .. :eek:

Plastigauge is an interesting idea. We've not tried it. The tolerance over the 1st fret when fretted at the 2nd is .005" to .008". Just to make sure. When you re-strung the bass, did you install Dingwall strings?
 
Hello fellow Dingwallers. I’m thinking about doing the 6 way rotary mod on my 3X Sklar. I vaguely remember seeing a drawing in the forum. Anyone know where I could find it? Thanks AJ

image.jpg
 

Attachments

  • image.jpg
    image.jpg
    868 KB · Views: 37