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Dingwall Owners Club

I really, really, really want one of the handful of Z's with the voodoo / switchblade system. I think I've said that here before. But the talk of one-offs or unusual Dingwalls always brings those to mind. I think there were like 3 made. I'll never see one.

Was feelin' the same when they came out. Loved that idea. Saw one briefly about 6 months or a year ago (in Japan of course).
 
@Smallmouth_Bass Yes, I do remember Sheldon posting a few different styles. He got lots of feedback on that as I recall. I actually preferred the current style but owning this one I love the match and knowing it is a bit rarer as it were.

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Me too. I prefer the older SJ headstocks with the full scoop (as opposed to the current streamlined scoop) as well as the recessed tuner bores. I know that functionally, there is no difference; it's just an aesthetic thing. Plus, my SJ5 has the skunk stripes in the back of the neck and now they insert the carbon fibre inserts (I think!) under the fingerboard rather than carving them out and having to re-fill them. It's more labour intensive to do it that way.

The thinner bodies I think are generally lighter, like my SP5, but I think my older SJ5 hits that sweet spot between not too light and too heavy at 9.2 lbs. It's really consistent right across the board in sound and feel, with minimal dead spots (I hate to say zero, because they all do - some are just more pronounced than others).
 
The Combustion may be a introductory product in the Dingwall Family but it is definitely NOT an introductory instrument.

Here is my view of my Combustion and gator belly boots last weekend.


View attachment 3599388

Maybe it is just me but that stage looks like it is made of grill cloth.
 
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I really, really, really want one of the handful of Z's with the voodoo / switchblade system. I think I've said that here before. But the talk of one-offs or unusual Dingwalls always brings those to mind. I think there were like 3 made. I'll never see one.

about 12 IIRC. I’ve seen 5-6. The classiest one someone in Australia posted. There was a nice red quilted 6er IIRC too.
 
I would say yes. I actually thought I'd prefer the beefier gauges, but the feel on the Paysons is incredible. I was thinking I should record a comparison.

I thought so too. We prototyped larger heavier gauges. The Payson Fanned Flats in production are the magic core to wrap ratio though.

My concern at 1st was that Dingwallers would balk at the relatively small gauge of the B string. It sounds REALLY good with nice low mid detail and freakishly long sustain. Don’t let that keep you on the fence. It is NOT flabby sounding.

We could have gone the cheaper route and not tapered the B,E and A strings. It’s a laborious detail, but I feel they are top shelf boutique quality Dingwallers have grown accustomed to. Omitting the silk at the ball helps with grounding and brings attention to the precision taper.
 
You should be able to find that hex head at any well stocked hardware store. Same with the cap head screws they use as saddles.

Or, you could cut the screws you have with a grinder and cut off wheel, or a metal band saw. A hack saw and sand paper would do.

I’m looking forward to trying the Payson flats on my AB-1 four string.

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I’m really loving this one, it’s super light.
 
You should be able to find that hex head at any well stocked hardware store. Same with the cap head screws they use as saddles.

Or, you could cut the screws you have with a grinder and cut off wheel, or a metal band saw. A hack saw and sand paper would do.

I’m looking forward to trying the Payson flats on my AB-1 four string.

View attachment 3599574

I’m really loving this one, it’s super light.

I had a 5-string AB1.5 in that same color - GREAT bass.

Another way to shorten a screw is to get a thread die (probably 6-32, IIRC) and thread it onto the screw, then cut the screw to the desired length and file off the rough edges.
When you back the die off the screw, it will clean up your threads.
 
The only, only gripe I have right now about my NG3 is the bridge. Nothing with function, "tone", "sustain" or anything like that. But, with how I play most of the time,it digs into my hand, and the edge on it is pretty "sharp". I know changing up where/how I play will solve that, but, dang haha

Valid critique. I don't have a problem but I don't palm mute.

I actually just brought the action down a bit on my NG. I'd already taken it down a few turns from stock, but decided to see if I could get a bit more and ended up with another 3/4ths of a turn lower. I was pretty surprised given I'm already a good bit below standard setup. My G saddle is nearly on the plate.
 
Valid critique. I don't have a problem but I don't palm mute.

I actually just brought the action down a bit on my NG. I'd already taken it down a few turns from stock, but decided to see if I could get a bit more and ended up with another 3/4ths of a turn lower. I was pretty surprised given I'm already a good bit below standard setup. My G saddle is nearly on the plate.
Yeah, I do quite a lot of palm muting. More than I had realized, in fact -- but this bridge is making it obvious :D. I may flat-file parts of it.
 
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Yeah, I do quite a lot of palm muting. More than I had realized, in fact -- but this bridge is making it obvious :D. I may flat-file parts of it.
I’m not really sure, but i believe babicz has a replacement bridge for combustions/NGs.
Bass Direct has them on their website
 
Yeah, I do quite a lot of palm muting. More than I had realized, in fact -- but this bridge is making it obvious :D. I may flat-file parts of it.
I’m not really sure, but i believe babicz has a replacement bridge for combustions/NGs.
Bass Direct has them on their website
They do indeed.
 

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