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Dingwall Owners Club

You don't need to produce first or second harmonic of those F#s, either. I had an AB1 I keep with F# tuning, and it works just fine for 100% of the things I do with it (recording, loud metal band, and sit-ins with various other ensembles). On my Fractal presets, I'm pretty aggressively rolling off under 80Hz anyway, but the F# is still awesome to have.
 
Just an FYI, I heard back from Dingwall and they sell replacement nuts but they won't be precut. "There is no way to completely precut the nuts to make them a perfect fit." Makes sense. Now the question is whether I should order two on the assumption that I'll botch it the first time.
 
Just an FYI, I heard back from Dingwall and they sell replacement nuts but they won't be precut. "There is no way to completely precut the nuts to make them a perfect fit." Makes sense. Now the question is whether I should order two on the assumption that I'll botch it the first time.
I’d suggest ordering two and taking the bass to a guitar tech
 
Just an FYI, I heard back from Dingwall and they sell replacement nuts but they won't be precut. "There is no way to completely precut the nuts to make them a perfect fit." Makes sense. Now the question is whether I should order two on the assumption that I'll botch it the first time.
The cost of shipping probably exceeds the cost of a nut. If it were me, I'd get two.
So are you planning to do the work yourself? Do you have a complete set of nut files and the knowledge and experience to do the job correctly? You need over $100 worth of tools to really get a good result.
I personally would start with a nut that is at least filed for BEADG so that you only have to widen the slots rather than starting with an uncut blank, which makes the job a lot more tricky.
See these tools.
If you don't have something like [Invalid or Expired Link Removed], then you have to be super careful.
If you are starting with an uncut blank, you might want [Invalid or Expired Link Removed].
The individual files are [Invalid or Expired Link Removed]. But they only go up to .125, so you will have to either look elsewhere to see if you can find a .175 (if it exists) or use a tapered round file and mark it where .175 is so that you don't make the slot too wide.
 
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Just an FYI, I heard back from Dingwall and they sell replacement nuts but they won't be precut. "There is no way to completely precut the nuts to make them a perfect fit." Makes sense. Now the question is whether I should order two on the assumption that I'll botch it the first time.

I'm guessing you don't have the appropriate tools to do this. If you just want this one nut cut, it will be a lot less to hire a pro than a set quality tools. A nut cut is about an hour of bench time and a set of files is about $100+. If you want to learn how to do it yourself, there are a lot of great resources on the site to get you rolling. It isn't difficult but I probably wouldn't suggest learning on your Dingwall.
 
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Just an FYI, I heard back from Dingwall and they sell replacement nuts but they won't be precut. "There is no way to completely precut the nuts to make them a perfect fit." Makes sense. Now the question is whether I should order two on the assumption that I'll botch it the first time.
I highly recommend hiring this job out - as others have suggested. I tried cutting nuts myself and it was a miserable experience with very poor results :rollno:

Maybe you're a better Craftsman than I, as I'm not much of one at all. Not enough patience.
 
Anyone have their Dingwall strung with the F# string set ? So what do you call this, Baritone Bass ? If your rig can reproduce the F# it must be a GOD note ! I would love to hear this set up if someone can post a recording here !!!!!!! and please excuse this old dog's ignorance on this subject !

Not F# but I used dingwall's .170 for F



Also, you'll need to find someone to do the nut, your B string slot (~.127) won't fit a .170 properly (to put it into perspective, the size difference between a .127 and .170 is like .043, and imagine trying to slip a G string into your current B string slot :bag:)

Also, hope this video helps to explain things better

 
I wanted to put an update here (as to be fair to Dingwall). I had recently bought a new NG3 and thought it had a grounding issue because I was getting noise through my amp (that I wasn't getting with any other bass).
It turned out it was a combination of a crappy tweeter (a known problem with the Markbass combo I had) and a bass that was much hotter than others I previously owned. I thought it was the bass because it was the only one but it's fine though other rigs.

Anyway I thought it would be fair to say that there was no QC issue - just an amp problem exploited by raw power :)
 
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I wanted to put an update here (as to be fair to Dingwall). I had recently bought a new NG3 and thought it had a grounding issue because I was getting noise through my amp (that I wasn't getting with any other bass).
It turned out it was a combination of a crappy tweeter (a known problem with the Markbass combo I had) and a bass that was much hotter than others I previously owned. I thought it was the bass because it was the only one but it's fine though other rigs.

Anyway I thought it would be fair to say that there was no QC issue - just an amp problem exploited by raw power :)
Thanks for keeping us posted. Sounds like you need to up the amp game now too!

Have fun with that!!
 
I'd stick with 3mm, it's what I have on all my Dingwalls.

Thank you for the reply, sir!

I'm super excited about this...:hyper::hyper::hyper:


What would 3mm ghost dots even look like? I'm trying to picture it. Wouldn't they be too small to make them look like a distinguishable "O"? But, it's funny you asked this, because I was wondering this same thing today when dream designing my perfect Dingwall. Great minds think alike!
 
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