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Dingwall Owners Club

#36,061
1983L2000 said:
Quick question... a couple of the hipshot tuners on my combustion 5 are rattling, and one of them in particular is tuned to the open string D. Super annoying - it’s not only quite noisy but I actually feel the vibration (or is it in my head). Any idea how to fix that? Or should I just replace?
Click to expand...
Not trying to be flippant, but find what's rattling and tighten it.
Check the neck screws too. ;)
 
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#36,062
1983L2000 said:
Quick question... a couple of the hipshot tuners on my combustion 5 are rattling, and one of them in particular is tuned to the open string D. Super annoying - it’s not only quite noisy but I actually feel the vibration (or is it in my head). Any idea how to fix that? Or should I just replace?
Click to expand...
I assume you checked the tightening nuts on the face of the headstock. If so, don’t over tighten these.

perhaps check the 2 Phillips screws on the back. My guess would be if you have rattle it would be the larger one that holder the gear in place. you should remove the string while tightening this.
Another possibility is to check the Allen screw on the underside of the tuner that holds the tuner head in place.

In reality though I’d be kind of surprised if it is not any of this and instead the string retainer or nut.
 
Last edited:
#36,064
AB Nate said:
I assume you checked the tightening nuts on the face of the headstock. If so, don’t over tighten these.

perhaps check the 2 Phillips screws on the back. My guess would be if you have tattle it would be the larger one that holder the gear in place. you should remove the string while tightening this.
Another possibility is to check the Allen screw on the underside of the tuner that holds the tuner head in place.

In reality though I’d be kind of surprised if it is any of this and not the string retainer or nut.
Click to expand...

I checked nut and retainer, but it’s definitely that one tuning peg. I guess I’ll retry with removing the string. Paysons have been on the way since early April... shouldn’t be that much longer :/

Many thanks for the help.
 
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#36,065
johnsonabq said:
I sold my Modulus Q5 after 17 years (Steinberger before that) to buy a Spector. I stuck with them until a couple of years ago when I switched to Dingwall. I find if you stick to high end basses the necks are far more manageable.
Click to expand...

Interesting. I have a spector and 2 dingwalls, recently almost bought a q6 (and missed a zon too by not much last year).
 
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#36,068
singlemalt said:
I had a Zon Vinnie 4 string for a year. It ticked all my boxes: light weight, j pickups, active....I should have loved it. Alas, it was not to be.

Top notch bass in every respect, but we just didn’t hit it off. The headless thing was a bit disconcerting.
Click to expand...
I’ve tried/owned some graphite necked basses in the past. There’s something about the attack that always felt weird to me. Don’t know if it was lack of variation or just the overall nature of it but it always ended-up “feeling like it sounded” less musical...if that makes any sense.
 
#36,069
Did somebody say "graphite" and "headless"? Like @johnsonabq, I have a dark past involving headless things that go "thump" in the night. Proof below, as nothing bought since 1987 has left the stable, and that ~1990 Steinberger TransTrem Q4 was my main player for years. However, the twin Dingwall bookends that replaced it have extremely stable necks, great playability, and fantastic tone, and I don't miss the graphite. On some tiny stages I do miss the headlessness and virtual indestructibility, especially when Mike's right crash starts trash talking my headstock over which one is "the real Z"....

IMG_1033.jpg
 
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#36,070
AmazingMumford said:
Did somebody say "graphite" and "headless"? Like @johnsonabq, I have a dark past involving headless things that go "thump" in the night. Proof below, as nothing bought since 1987 has left the stable, and that ~1990 Steinberger TransTrem Q4 was my main player for years. However, the twin Dingwall bookends that replaced it have extremely stable necks, great playability, and fantastic tone, and I don't miss the graphite. On some tiny stages I do miss the headlessness and virtual indestructibility, especially when Mike's right crash starts trash talking my headstock over which one is "the real Z"....

View attachment 3842247
Click to expand...

Ooo. Got a close up of your Super J headstock? Looks like you have one of the rare filled in headstocks. I wonder how many like that they made during the decision process to get to where they are now.
 
#36,075
1983L2000 said:
Quick question... a couple of the hipshot tuners on my combustion 5 are rattling, and one of them in particular is tuned to the open string D. Super annoying - it’s not only quite noisy but I actually feel the vibration (or is it in my head). Any idea how to fix that? Or should I just replace?
Click to expand...
You could take the tuner off and try get some thin super glue it it.
I have fixed a Squier tuner with that issue with solder.
 
#36,076
Andyman001 said:
You could take the tuner off and try get some thin super glue it it.
I have fixed a Squier tuner with that issue with solder.
Click to expand...
Thanks. It's the Y shaped peg that vibrates in the shaft - not sure what I will be able to glue/solder (let me know)? But indeed as soon as I receive replacement strings I'll take the tuner assembly apart and see if something can be done instead of replacing it/them.
 
#36,077
1983L2000 said:
Thanks. It's the Y shaped peg that vibrates in the shaft - not sure what I will be able to glue/solder (let me know)? But indeed as soon as I receive replacement strings I'll take the tuner assembly apart and see if something can be done instead of replacing it/them.
Click to expand...
If the peg/ shaft is one piece, then its different than the Squier I spoke of (clover "handle" was loose on shaft), and the whole shaft is vibrating, you might be able to change the height of the gear with a washer, or replace the bushing at the shaft end.
when you take it apart, it should be apparent.
good luck!
 
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#36,078
1983L2000 said:
Quick question... a couple of the hipshot tuners on my combustion 5 are rattling, and one of them in particular is tuned to the open string D. Super annoying - it’s not only quite noisy but I actually feel the vibration (or is it in my head). Any idea how to fix that? Or should I just replace?
Click to expand...
There are a couple of places where the tuners can loosen up.

Check the mounting nut first. It should be snug. When the wood shrinks in dry weather, these can get loose. If you have to tighten this nut, don't make it too tight, just snug or slightly past snug.

The next place tuners can loosen up is at the tension screw. That's the little allen screw at the end of the worm gear. I don't recall offhand the size of wrench but it would be 1.5 mm or 2.0 mm. As you tighten this screw make sure the wrench is fully engaged as small screws like this strip easily. You'll know if this screw is loose by the feel of the tuner with the string removed. If the tuner feels loose and sloppy, it needs to be adjusted. If it feels smooth with a slight amount of resistance when turned, you're good. If it feels stiff to turn, you need to back off the tension.

The last place to look is the tuner button itself. The button is press fit onto the worm gear shaft. If you wiggle the button, you shouldn't be able to detect any movement of the button on the shaft. If there is movement, I recommend taking it to a tech for them to inject either some thin CA glue into the joint or pull the button off, add a little bit of epoxy or JB weld then press back on. If your bass is less than a year old, contact tech at dingwall guitars dot com and we'll arrange to send you a replacement.
 
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#36,079
Sheldon D. said:
There are a couple of places where the tuners can loosen up.

Check the mounting nut first. It should be snug. When the wood shrinks in dry weather, these can get loose. If you have to tighten this nut, don't make it too tight, just snug or slightly past snug.

The next place tuners can loosen up is at the tension screw. That's the little allen screw at the end of the worm gear. I don't recall offhand the size of wrench but it would be 1.5 mm or 2.0 mm. As you tighten this screw make sure the wrench is fully engaged as small screws like this strip easily. You'll know if this screw is loose by the feel of the tuner with the string removed. If the tuner feels loose and sloppy, it needs to be adjusted. If it feels smooth with a slight amount of resistance when turned, you're good. If it feels stiff to turn, you need to back off the tension.

The last place to look is the tuner button itself. The button is press fit onto the worm gear shaft. If you wiggle the button, you shouldn't be able to detect any movement of the button on the shaft. If there is movement, I recommend taking it to a tech for them to inject either some thin CA glue into the joint or pull the button off, add a little bit of epoxy or JB weld then press back on. If your bass is less than a year old, contact tech at dingwall guitars dot com and we'll arrange to send you a replacement.
Click to expand...
I have a question, Mr. Dingwall.

I know string posts are shorter on Dingwall basses than standard. If I buy a D-tuner, can I use the original, shorter post on it?
 
#36,080
Sheldon D. said:
There are a couple of places where the tuners can loosen up.

Check the mounting nut first. It should be snug. When the wood shrinks in dry weather, these can get loose. If you have to tighten this nut, don't make it too tight, just snug or slightly past snug.

The next place tuners can loosen up is at the tension screw. That's the little allen screw at the end of the worm gear. I don't recall offhand the size of wrench but it would be 1.5 mm or 2.0 mm. As you tighten this screw make sure the wrench is fully engaged as small screws like this strip easily. You'll know if this screw is loose by the feel of the tuner with the string removed. If the tuner feels loose and sloppy, it needs to be adjusted. If it feels smooth with a slight amount of resistance when turned, you're good. If it feels stiff to turn, you need to back off the tension.

The last place to look is the tuner button itself. The button is press fit onto the worm gear shaft. If you wiggle the button, you shouldn't be able to detect any movement of the button on the shaft. If there is movement, I recommend taking it to a tech for them to inject either some thin CA glue into the joint or pull the button off, add a little bit of epoxy or JB weld then press back on. If your bass is less than a year old, contact tech at dingwall guitars dot com and we'll arrange to send you a replacement.
Click to expand...

Many thanks Sheldon, it is definitely the latter (tuner button). I will see if I can do it myself or if I need to find a technician to do it - but I live in Geneva and haven't been very impressed with any in the area... I'm not lucky with this otherwise superb bass - it's the same one that lost 2 black dots (fret markers). I still haven't replaced those, but I'm considering sending it to Mo at some point to install S/P switches...

Cheers,
Nick
 

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