Dingwall Owners Club

[therealacameron]

Pretty sure my afterburner got stuck in that snowstorm in the US, which is appropriate given it's white Haha

 

[BurningSkies]

Hm. I fear my new bass is in the latest shipping rack photo, but is not interesting enough to be highlighted

Don't stress. Mine was 'on the rack' at one point...then the lightbox photo came out about 2 months later. Mine was a sleeper as well, but that was the intent.

 

[IvanBassist]

Pretty sure my afterburner got stuck in that snowstorm in the US, which is appropriate given it's white Haha

I feel you

 

[Andyman001]

FYI D-Bird on Reverb, listed as a D-Roc Std.
Dingwall D-Roc Standard | Driftwood Music | Reverb

 

[BurningSkies]

Are FDV's typically much lower output than the FD3N pickups? I'm trying to do some volume leveling on my patches for my dingwalls on my helix, and I'm finding I need to add 12db of boost to get the FDVs from my ABZ 4 to have the same input level as my d-roc standard 4 with FD3Ns. Not sure if this is expected or not

I didn't notice a difference in output when I replaced the FD3's with FDV's in my NG-2. Are the pickup heights the same?

I'm going to give this a qualified 'maybe.' But also try to triangulate on the question in a way that gives a little bit of info. Again, not from having scoped the pickups or scrutinized levels in a recording interface.

-I had a FDV briefly in the bridge pickup slot of the Super-P...it was raised up REALLY close to the strings, I assume to try to get close to the output of the split coil pickup. I found that when I was test driving that configuration, it didn't 'keep up' with the split coil Dingwall pickup in level and in that setting/placement it tonally seemed anemic by comparison and in combination with the split coil. I would assume that this is a combination of the magnet material (ALNICO, I believe) vs. the stronger neodymium magnets in the other FD's and the split-P; and the intent behind the pickup to create something closer to a 'vintage' tone. Also, I'll point out that there's WAY more magnet in the FDV vs. any of the others...which suggests that they've tried to counter the lower flux of the magnet used as best possible by increasing the size/mass of the magnets used.

When I was discussing with the shop what the conventional wisdom for the neck pickup on the Super-P was they said; "The current standard is the FDV. We do have a few people who like the PTone in the bridge position, as it keeps up in terms of volume fairly well with the split P pickup."

I dropped a P-Tone into the bridge position and eyeballed the height to roughly match the split coil (but just a little higher), and being lazy didn't check or do a level balance...and found that the shop's comment was pretty dead on...the levels were very close.

I also tried a neck P-Tone in my NG3 for a bit...and found that it too matched the output closely to the FD-3N's that are in that bass...

Therefore; if the P-Tone is close to the FD3N, and the P-Tone is close to the output of the Split-P...but the FDV is lower in output than the Split-P...then by logic magic the FDV is most likely lower output than the FD3N.

In another note, I really didn't like the P-Tone in the neck of the NG and really love the P-Tone in the bridge of the Super-P...so it's all in the setting and situation. One of these moments I'll take a moment or three and try the P-Tone once again in the NG and see how I feel upon revisiting it.

I would assume that the FDV is a great sounding pickup when you're using it in the right setting and when it's balanced properly with the other pickups. That probably means if you're pairing it with other higher output Dingwall pickups you'd want to back off the other pickups and get that FDV as close to the strings as possible.

 

[BurningSkies]

FYI D-Bird on Reverb, listed as a D-Roc Std.
Dingwall D-Roc Standard | Driftwood Music | Reverb

Someone should snap up that rarity...

 

[Poobini]

FYI D-Bird on Reverb, listed as a D-Roc Std.
Dingwall D-Roc Standard | Driftwood Music | Reverb

That's in my neck of the woods!!! Argh!!!

 

[DingwallDingus]

I'm going to give this a qualified 'maybe.' But also try to triangulate on the question in a way that gives a little bit of info. Again, not from having scoped the pickups or scrutinized levels in a recording interface.

-I had a FDV briefly in the bridge pickup slot of the Super-P...it was raised up REALLY close to the strings, I assume to try to get close to the output of the split coil pickup. I found that when I was test driving that configuration, it didn't 'keep up' with the split coil Dingwall pickup in level and in that setting/placement it tonally seemed anemic by comparison and in combination with the split coil. I would assume that this is a combination of the magnet material (ALNICO, I believe) vs. the stronger neodymium magnets in the other FD's and the split-P; and the intent behind the pickup to create something closer to a 'vintage' tone. Also, I'll point out that there's WAY more magnet in the FDV vs. any of the others...which suggests that they've tried to counter the lower flux of the magnet used as best possible by increasing the size/mass of the magnets used.

When I was discussing with the shop what the conventional wisdom for the neck pickup on the Super-P was they said; "The current standard is the FDV. We do have a few people who like the PTone in the bridge position, as it keeps up in terms of volume fairly well with the split P pickup."

I dropped a P-Tone into the bridge position and eyeballed the height to roughly match the split coil (but just a little higher), and being lazy didn't check or do a level balance...and found that the shop's comment was pretty dead on...the levels were very close.

I also tried a neck P-Tone in my NG3 for a bit...and found that it too matched the output closely to the FD-3N's that are in that bass...

Therefore; if the P-Tone is close to the FD3N, and the P-Tone is close to the output of the Split-P...but the FDV is lower in output than the Split-P...then by logic magic the FDV is most likely lower output than the FD3N.

In another note, I really didn't like the P-Tone in the neck of the NG and really love the P-Tone in the bridge of the Super-P...so it's all in the setting and situation. One of these moments I'll take a moment or three and try the P-Tone once again in the NG and see how I feel upon revisiting it.

I would assume that the FDV is a great sounding pickup when you're using it in the right setting and when it's balanced properly with the other pickups. That probably means if you're pairing it with other higher output Dingwall pickups you'd want to back off the other pickups and get that FDV as close to the strings as possible.

I thought about trying the P-Tone in the past but I think I would only do it in the neck of a 3x. I know some people hate it but I'm growing quite fond of the middle pickup only on the NG2. it's not quite 1:1 to a true P bass sound but it brings it's own character and mid content which I like, gives me a good excuse to play with a pick.

Also speaking of the magnet size, the magnets in the Nordstrand FD3s are huge! Apparently they aren't the right spacing according to Sheldon but I think the magnets are so big it doesn't really matter, not noticing any output loss across all strings at least. I'll have to google the FDVs

 

[DingwallDingus]

Also if anyone could help me with a strings question, I love the Payson Medium Light Nickel Rounds but he doesn't offer a .110 tapered string currently. I've used Daddarrio in the past but I've heard they are inconsistent winding length?

I'm looking for a string to be close to balanced for drop D. I know I can just tune down a .100 or .105 and it will be good enough, I've been doing that with a .100 but the tuning issues are slightly annoying for recording. Also I just prefer the tone of a mostly balanced set.

I've used kalium in the past and really really liked them but since their reputation is in the toliet plus no social media presence from them in about a year I'm scared to buy from them. Any help is appreciated.

 

[Waltsdog]

Also if anyone could help me with a strings question,.

Haven't tried them yet but a couple of people have mentioned Newtone Newtone Strings – British Handmade Guitar Strings they'll do pretty much any size you want.

 

[DingwallDingus]

Haven't tried them yet but a couple of people have mentioned Newtone Newtone Strings – British Handmade Guitar Strings they'll do pretty much any size you want.

I saw these but forgot about them, I'll look into it. Thanks for the recommendation!

 

[BurningSkies]

I thought about trying the P-Tone in the past but I think I would only do it in the neck of a 3x. I know some people hate it but I'm growing quite fond of the middle pickup only on the NG2. it's not quite 1:1 to a true P bass sound but it brings it's own character and mid content which I like, gives me a good excuse to play with a pick.

Also speaking of the magnet size, the magnets in the Nordstrand FD3s are huge! Apparently they aren't the right spacing according to Sheldon but I think the magnets are so big it doesn't really matter, not noticing any output loss across all strings at least. I'll have to google the FDVs

I think the issue with magnet spacing relates to how the angled-split coil sits in the shells...they don't extend out quite far enough for fanned fret basses being designed as a FD-3 for parallel fret instruments.

That said, I'm not a big uptightie about the poles being directly below a string. As far as I know that's not how magnetic fields work and that the poles altogether envelope the strings in a wider field. Of course, if you've got strings that lie outside the field the poles create, that's not great for getting level on the outside strings.

 

[BurningSkies]

Haven't tried them yet but a couple of people have mentioned Newtone Newtone Strings – British Handmade Guitar Strings they'll do pretty much any size you want.

Interesting. They have sets in 32-35" scale and 34-37" scale with round or hex core:
Diamond Bass for Multi-scale instruments – Newtone Strings

I wonder if they'd do tapered on the strings that need it too...

Then these which are drop-tune long scale/tapered on the lower:
Northlane Signature Multi-scale Bass Strings – Newtone Strings

 

[DingwallDingus]

I think the issue with magnet spacing relates to how the angled-split coil sits in the shells...they don't extend out quite far enough for fanned fret basses being designed as a FD-3 for parallel fret instruments.

That said, I'm not a big uptightie about the poles being directly below a string. As far as I know that's not how magnetic fields work and that the poles altogether envelope the strings in a wider field. Of course, if you've got strings that lie outside the field the poles create, that's not great for getting level on the outside strings.

They seem to work perfectly fine to my ears so I'd be inclined to agree with you. That's pretty interesting to think about in terms of the sum of the poles.

I was extremely sceptical at first, almost going so far as to cancel my order but multiple people from Nordstrand assured me that they would work. Also I reached out to some other fanned fret builders who had used them with zero issues. I figured if they didn't work I'd have a pretty decent case for a refund and Dingwall themselves told me to give them a shot if they said they would work.

All this because I have square shells and couldn't get new replacement FD3ns. Oh well, the etched "D" on the pickups look sweet and won't flake off like the gold Dingwall lettering.

 

[BurningSkies]

They seem to work perfectly fine to my ears so I'd be inclined to agree with you. That's pretty interesting to think about in terms of the sum of the poles.

I was extremely sceptical at first, almost going so far to cancel my order but multiple people from Nordstrand assured me that they would work. Also I reached out to some other fanned fret builders who had used them with zero issues. I figured if they didn't work I'd have a pretty decent case for a refund and Dingwall themselves told me to give them a shot if they said they would work.

All this because I have square shells and couldn't get new replacement FD3ns. Oh well, the etched "D" on the pickups look sweet and won't flake off like the gold Dingwall lettering.

Yeah, my very favorite of the logo-ing of the shells is the old large Dingwall shells that I think were CNC'ed. But that's just personal preference. The Combustion with the EMG sized shells came to me with the logos half played off anyway, so I just removed them all the way to be uniform.

 

[DingwallDingus]

Yeah, my very favorite of the logo-ing of the shells is the old large Dingwall shells that I think were CNC'ed. But that's just personal preference. The Combustion with the EMG sized shells came to me with the logos half played off anyway, so I just removed them all the way to be uniform.

I did the same thing as it was bugging me being half there, silly but hey. It's a shame it came off easily because I really liked it with my old matte black+gold hardware and pickguard scheme. The decal, maple neck and pickup lettering really completed the look.

 

[Waltsdog]

I wonder if they'd do tapered on the strings that need it too...

Pretty sure tapered is available when you go through the custom order process. I've been meaning to make an order for my ABZ as I want a slightly lighter set and nobody makes them, I got as far as picking all the options but would have had to contact them to ensure I was ordering exactly the right strings.
Then my Super arrived so I've been playing that and put off ordering new strings

 

[DingwallDingus]

Do you guys prefer nickel or steel primarily? Or do you flip between the two for different things?

I personally haven't used steel since Pro Steels made me vanish in a mix via mid scoop and bass extension. I should probably try Payson steels at some point, I just wish he offered his medium light gauging for them.

 

[BurningSkies]

Do you guys prefer nickel or steel primarily? Or do you flip between the two for different things?

I personally haven't used steel since Pro Steels made me vanish in a mix via mid scoop and bass extension. I should probably try Payson steels at some point, I just wish he offered his medium light gauging for them.

I prefer the nickel wrapped steel. I've revisited standard SS here and there and still go back to the nickel.

 

[AB Nate]

Do you guys prefer nickel or steel primarily? Or do you flip between the two for different things?

I personally haven't used steel since Pro Steels made me vanish in a mix via mid scoop and bass extension. I should probably try Payson steels at some point, I just wish he offered his medium light gauging for them.

I use a variety of nickel string on my maple sixer, nickels on my super. I’ve never been able to bond with stainless on the super series basses.

on my other 6er(Galactus), I use the payson Stainless steels all the way! They are my most preferred string of all. This bass is set up to be aggressive and snarly.

I use the others for a different vibe on the other basses.