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Dingwall Owners Club

All of this switch talk is making me think about my Super J's switch. I love the neck-solo (P'ish) and neck-bridge parallel (J-ish) settings. The bridge-solo (Jaco'ish) setting is something I'll never use as it's just not my taste. The middle-bridge series (Stingray'ish) setting is the interesting one. I like the sound and it's very convincingly MM sounding, but I find the mids a little overbearing and there's noticeable volume jump when in that setting compared to others on the bass. I would love if that setting were in parallel similar to a Sterling as compared to series like a Stingray. I'm guessing that modification to the existing 4-position switch would not be possible, but if it is possible, has anyone done that particular mod?

For under $100 you can have a switch made to your liking.
I will say the MM series is a beast setting great for Heavy music. The MM series setting is a really sweet laid back MM style. I love this setting on my Fretless
 
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Yeah… I also kinda don’t want to monkey with my Super J at all :p
That’s how I felt… until I decided I wanted to explore some other options I had on another bass via the 3x. Vs the D roc switch. My thought was gonna be to sell the one with the 3x switch once I had the 6 way…. Haven’t made it that far yet. Haha

it’s a really un-intrusive mod. 11 solder joints on the switch and easily reversible.
 
Quick question for those who have a D-roc 5 string.
I'm expecting my Standard 5 soon ( everything crossed they'll release them in a few weeks ) and even though they come with what I've heard is an excellent gig-bag, I will probably get a hardcase too ( for certain gigs ).
So the question is...... does anyone have suggestions for a hardcase that will fit the D-roc 5's

I use an enki for both my Ds
 
I finally worked up the nerve to do just a tiny bit of drilling and got around to installing these:

E5E8736D-CC59-4105-84DE-CF4BB923A687.jpeg


It’s a small thing, but I have to work towards doing more drastic stuff to Dingwalls.
 
Allright, it is happening. Bucket list item is on the way to me. My first Dingwall, my first fanned fret bass. It's a 4 string Afterburner, fully passive. Matte sunburst, wenge fingerboard.

So tell me about strings. I know about Dingwall strings of course. But what about others? On a 4 string Afterburner, what does the winding length need to be? Do the strings have to be tapered?

Can't wait for my first Dingwall!!!

00F0F_83jqP416PxTz_0CI0pO_1200x900.jpg
 
Check with Fret Nation for strings. Jason knows what will fit on Dingwall basses.

I’ve run DR sets on my AB-1 four string, the E just makes it. Pure Blues VW .040, Low Riders...

I’ve also used Infeld superalloys.

Also Payson strings for drop in fit.

The E string is 36.25”.

Jason can help you out with TI flats. Payson has flats.
 
Allright, it is happening. Bucket list item is on the way to me. My first Dingwall, my first fanned fret bass. It's a 4 string Afterburner, fully passive. Matte sunburst, wenge fingerboard.

So tell me about strings. I know about Dingwall strings of course. But what about others? On a 4 string Afterburner, what does the winding length need to be? Do the strings have to be tapered?

Can't wait for my first Dingwall!!!

View attachment 4421716

Nice! Congrats!
 
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Check with Fret Nation for strings. Jason knows what will fit on Dingwall basses.

I’ve run DR sets on my AB-1 four string, the E just makes it. Pure Blues VW .040, Low Riders...

I’ve also used Infeld superalloys.

Also Payson strings for drop in fit.

The E string is 36.25”.

Jason can help you out with TI flats. Payson has flats.

Good to know about DR's, they are what I normally use. I ordered a set of SIT's Dingwall strings for now, we'll see how this fanned fret thing goes before I invest too much.

Oh and no flats for me, nickel roundwound all the way!
 
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The SIT Dingwall strings are decent. They are a bit lighter tension than the Dingwall strings but could be good for some.

Good to know, I like lighter. My normal strings are Dunlop Super Bright Nickels 45-105, and I tune the E down to C# for the stuff we do and they work great. Dunlops are not long enough though. I also see that Dingwall strings are made by GHS and I've never gotten along with any GHS because of their larger core wire.
 
Good to know, I like lighter. My normal strings are Dunlop Super Bright Nickels 45-105, and I tune the E down to C# for the stuff we do and they work great. Dunlops are not long enough though. I also see that Dingwall strings are made by GHS and I've never gotten along with any GHS because of their larger core wire.

I just made the switch to Kalium Hybrids. They sound great and have noticeably less tension than the nickel Dingwalls I had been using.
 
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Good to know, I like lighter. My normal strings are Dunlop Super Bright Nickels 45-105, and I tune the E down to C# for the stuff we do and they work great. Dunlops are not long enough though. I also see that Dingwall strings are made by GHS and I've never gotten along with any GHS because of their larger core wire.
Fretnation offers custom Dunlop strings that fit DW basses if i remember correctly
 
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Hey,

Quick question for 5 string Combustion owners.
When you adjust the curve of the neck with the truss rod and measure the gap between fret and string at 7th fret while pressing down at the 1st and at the 17th fret (method recommended by Sheldon), is this gap the same at the B and at the G string?

Thanks in advance!