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Dingwall Owners Club

Bring your big wallet (and somebody else's probably), they only made customs and they are very rare.

Honestly, having had both the D-Roc is a superior design and would choose it every day over the D-Bird. I say that as someone who preferred the D-Bird shape. The current standard 5 models are super close to the Customs now with the new bridge and luminlay side dots.

I haven’t touched a D-Bird, but I prefer the D-Roc aesthetics. Especially the bridge
 
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Hi All.

Long time no post. I have an Active SJ5 and a Passive SPJ5. I would like to mod both somewhat (where applicable) similarly. For the PJ5, I'd like to replace the 4-way selector knob/switch with a toggle switch for series/parallel and add an additional volume pot, whereby the existing vol would control the P pup and the new would control the J.

Similarly on my SJ5, I'd also like to replace the 4-way selector knob/switch with a toggle switch for series/parallel and add an additional volume pot, whereby the existing vol would control the neck pup and the new would control the J.

I *think I would prefer the two know solution to a Vol/Balance stacked know.

I guess my question/s are:

1.) How would these be wired (anyone do this and have a diagram)?
2.) Recommendations/things to consider re: any particular pot type a
 
I have a D Roc 5 Standard, and it's the same as the D-Bird one in your first picture. The top part of the first picture is for combustions etc. I believe.

I did install a 6 way switch with mine to allow the neck pickup to be soloed.

Good Luck!

It should also be noted that these 2 configurations typically assume a different pickup wiring (or so I believe):

Neck pickup wired in parallel, bridge and middle pickups wired in series for D-Roc
Middle pickup wired in parallel, neck and bridge pickups wired in series for Combustions ("3x")
 
Hi All.

Long time no post. I have an Active SJ5 and a Passive SPJ5. I would like to mod both somewhat (where applicable) similarly. For the PJ5, I'd like to replace the 4-way selector knob/switch with a toggle switch for series/parallel and add an additional volume pot, whereby the existing vol would control the P pup and the new would control the J.

Similarly on my SJ5, I'd also like to replace the 4-way selector knob/switch with a toggle switch for series/parallel and add an additional volume pot, whereby the existing vol would control the neck pup and the new would control the J.

I *think I would prefer the two know solution to a Vol/Balance stacked know.

I guess my question/s are:

1.) How would these be wired (anyone do this and have a diagram)?
2.) Recommendations/things to consider re: any particular pot type a
Are you gonna do the work yourself?

@gustobassman may be a good person to help with this?

on the west coast Mo Minas is pro.
 
Are you gonna do the work yourself?

@gustobassman may be a good person to help with this?

on the west coast Mo Minas is pro.

Mo is the man.. he's about an hour and half north of me (I'm in San Diego). He's gotten me out of a pickle more than once.

@pmad_bass - I don't think that would be too difficult to pull off. I have errands today but if I have time I'll see if I can whip up a diagram. Make sure to hit up Mo, he's tip top and may have something ready to go.
 
Hi All.

Long time no post. I have an Active SJ5 and a Passive SPJ5. I would like to mod both somewhat (where applicable) similarly. For the PJ5, I'd like to replace the 4-way selector knob/switch with a toggle switch for series/parallel and add an additional volume pot, whereby the existing vol would control the P pup and the new would control the J.

Similarly on my SJ5, I'd also like to replace the 4-way selector knob/switch with a toggle switch for series/parallel and add an additional volume pot, whereby the existing vol would control the neck pup and the new would control the J.

I *think I would prefer the two know solution to a Vol/Balance stacked know.

I guess my question/s are:

1.) How would these be wired (anyone do this and have a diagram)?
2.) Recommendations/things to consider re: any particular pot type a

You can just follow a jazz bass wiring diagram that includes a series-parallel switch for both of these mods. There's one on Seymour Duncan's website. You can figure out which wires coming from the pickups are which by noting where they are hooked up to the 4-position switch.

Most people prefer 250k pots for Jazz basses. Higher values filter out less treble content, and 500k pots are common with P basses since the pickup tends to sound darker. I'd look at what's in the bass already, and match that.
 
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You can just follow a jazz bass wiring diagram that includes a series-parallel switch for both of these mods. There's one on Seymour Duncan's website. You can figure out which wires coming from the pickups are which by noting where they are hooked up to the 4-position switch.

Most people prefer 250k pots for Jazz basses. Higher values filter out less treble content, and 500k pots are common with P basses since the pickup tends to sound darker. I'd look at what's in the bass already, and match that.

Thanks. I checked out the SD site. Pretty cool resource. Thanks!

-PM
 
I have another D Roc question. I have a 4 string D Roc. Does anyone make strings that will work on it that are like the GHS Pressure Wounds? Or maybe Half rounds. I have come to really like the pressure wounds. According to the GHS site they are 36.25” . I’m confused by the multi scale thing. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Matt
 
I have another D Roc question. I have a 4 string D Roc. Does anyone make strings that will work on it that are like the GHS Pressure Wounds? Or maybe Half rounds. I have come to really like the pressure wounds. According to the GHS site they are 36.25” . I’m confused by the multi scale thing. Any help is greatly appreciated.
Matt
They may work for you on the 4 string but check the tapers to confirm on your string of choice.
Here is the scale length per string. Droc is on the left.
534CFE41-C86A-4B38-9521-33C603A87227.png


Also, you’ll want to confirm the tension is appropriate per string. As the scale length changes, the tension on the string also changes. Manufacturers design their strings with scale length in mind which is why some strings do not work well with multi scale
Stringjoy Guitar String Tension Calculator
 
There are D-Bird 5s out there:

Link Removed

I still hate myself to this day not pulling the trigger on that ...sadly I already had an instrument to bring back with me from the states and a very tight schedule before I went on vacation :(

I haven’t touched a D-Bird, but I prefer the D-Roc aesthetics. Especially the bridge

I'm def more a fan of the D Roc bridge but I love the shape more of the D Bird.
As cool as they look though I find the shape doesn't always work with everyone who plays them.
Strap height and body type the big factors.

there may be 10-20 in existence. All customs

The ones I know are the the above one, the gold NAMM, two Red/Gold and a blue one that was in Japan (I believe one of the red/gold ones is owned by a forumite and another I shall not mention lol.
I just missed out on the blue one in Japan :( Now I have the avi one and a D Roc custom but the 5string D Bird still itches to this day even though I don't use the low B much.
 
Hey all. Anyone have any experience of using ti flats on a 34-37" Dingwall?

Thinking of trying some on my ABI. Really love them on 34" basses, but curious how they are with multiscale.

Cheers!
I just got a set and put them on. I haven’t even noodled with them much as I’m kind of under the weather. Seem nice so far. I got a slightly used set which I believe came from Fret Nation who may or may not substitute the A string from a 5 string set. I hope to try them out with the band this Sunday if I’m not still too sick. I have a DRoc standard.
 
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DR sets, Pure Blues, Lowriders, ect just make it on the E string on the longscale basses, AB’s, Dbirds.

I have used TI flats on the longscales, and I really liked them. Jason at FretNation.com can help you out with mixed length sets. Be aware, the TI flat B string is a whopping .136 and not tapered at the ball end. I needed shorter saddle screws to get it as low as I wanted. No big deal getting those screws at a well stocked hardware store. I preferred E-C with the TI flats. TI flats just sound so good and I love the low tension feel.

My one and only quibble with the D bird is the short finger board. Not that I’d be able to access those extra frets with my left hand, given the D bird’s lack of cut away, but I’d love to have those frets for slapping closer to the pickups.
 
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Had the audition for the 80s hair band thing last night and dude didn't even flinch at the NG3. He had the full on painted samurai-style Jackson (not rising sun, it was two swords and kanji), I was expecting at least one comment about needing a more "appropriate" bass and got nothing :roflmao:

He did say over and over again how awesome it was I was nailing all the tones and parts. This NG3 has FD3's and its crazy how close the neck soloed got to the tone of Don't Stop Believing. Like scary close.. I was channeling Valory all the way :D:D

I got the Source Audio Atlas Compressor last week. Kicked major booty at my gigs and plays extremely well with both NG's and my AB2. If you are a comp person, you have to try this pedal. No affiliation, just stoked on what it does with the Dingwalls.