Ended up picking this one up. Loving it!Not mine, but wanted folks to be aware (especially in Indiana):
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$1500
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Ended up picking this one up. Loving it!Not mine, but wanted folks to be aware (especially in Indiana):
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$1500
Smaller than you'd think. I had a 110 for drop AWhat string length/gauges would be recommended for going BEAD on my Droc 4?
Thank you @AB Nate this is great info. I will experiment with the p up height.Hey Matt,
The FD34n pick ups that come on the combustions are I believe the hottest Output pickups from dingwall. They really are fantastic. One way to minimize the clank is to lower those pick ups. You will lose a bit of output doing this but you will find significant differences in sound/output with the range of height adjust. My main player that gets the most time(mainly thru headphones right now) I actually have the pick ups quite low. It took some exploration to find that happy spot.
With that,
if you get some Canadian pick ups you’ll find the FD3 to be similar to the production ones but a little less output and a more refined articulate tone. Quite ballsy and clear. Can really crunch nice too.
I think the P tone is kind of self explanatory. It’s a great sounding pick up with more mids up front as you’d expect and can be used to add some wool or grit to your sound but softens up nicely with the tone rolled back.
The SF2s. I just recently got to try an SF2 for the first time. I swapped out my FD3s in my SJ for a P tone and SF2.
This added more warmth, and a bit of beef in the low end. The sound of the instrument smoothed out. It’s sounds big but not as “edgy” as it used to with the FD3s
I’d also recommend some Payson nickes. They don’t bite as hard as SS for example.
In my NG2 I went from FD3n, to FDV, and finally to SF2s. The SF2s gave me the best all-round sound, with the biggest change being that I found the bridge pickup much more usable solo. I might try a P Tone for the neck sometime tooThank you @AB Nate this is great info. I will experiment with the p up height.
Your description at the end with using the SF2 and P Tone sounds like what Im after. Added warmth, a little more beef in the bottom and not as edgy. The not as edgy is what im particularly after. Thanks again,
Matt
They’re probably around somewhere. I haven’t read any in quite a while. All you have to do is compare the spec of even consumer-tier USB-C interfaces to the few remaining PCIe models still available to see that it’s not worth bothering with a technology that’s on its way out. Why bother with PCIe when many USB-C interfaces will get you sub-1ms latency on surprisingly high track counts? Get to professional tier USB-C and you can retain sub-1ms latency across 64+ tracks without breaking a sweat on an off the shelf computer.
Buy what you like, use what you like. The market availability will provide a more clear comparison over what’s actually being used these days. A spec comparison will show why. Now back to our regularly scheduled Dingwall programming.
What string length/gauges would be recommended for going BEAD on my Droc 4?
What string length/gauges would be recommended for going BEAD on my Droc 4?
Thank you @AB Nate this is great info. I will experiment with the p up height.
Your description at the end with using the SF2 and P Tone sounds like what Im after. Added warmth, a little more beef in the bottom and not as edgy. The not as edgy is what im particularly after. Thanks again,
Matt
Id take that P-tone of your hands if you ever decide to try an SF2. I went with the FDV and am certainly happy with it, but I’d also like to tinker!When I added a bridge pickup to my SP5, I initially went with an FDV, then changed it to a P-Tone. But I kind-of wished I went with an SF2. My SJ5 (P/J) has a SF1 in the bridge and it sounds really good.
Thank you @AB Nate this is great info. I will experiment with the p up height.
Your description at the end with using the SF2 and P Tone sounds like what Im after. Added warmth, a little more beef in the bottom and not as edgy. The not as edgy is what im particularly after. Thanks again,
Matt
Those are the markers that I want.Honestly, I don't regret the option I have:
View attachment 4788128
Yes. It could be fret wear or a possible fret lifting off the board. It may simply need to be pressed back in and or a fret dressing. Do you notice any gap at all between the bottom of the fret wire and the board on any of those frets?Hey All, here's a question for our longtime Dingwall players... I have had my AB2 for a little over 12 years now, custom from the workshop. Recently I am starting to get a buzz on the D between the 7th and 11th frets. Only on the D...
I am going to string it up with new, and if that does not resolve it, I will take to Mo.
Has anyone else seen this on a seasoned Dingwall? Hopefully it's just string fatigue...
How old are your strings?Thanks for your feedback Nate. I can't see any gaps or lifting... I am really baffled. If it is fret wear, it must be distributed pretty well... I can't see any depressions. No issues ever with this fantastic instrument until this, and it is really very minor. But no buzz is good buzz for me...![]()
As a follow-up to the pick-up height recommendation, that seems to be doing the trick.No problem. Have fun!!!