Dingwall Owners Club

[shade_1313]

Shade,

That 6 string is amazing. What a work of art.

Best,
Bones

It is a beautiful top. That’s the kind of top that would really stress me out, if it were mine, between a natural finish and some colors that really pop with that figuring. Natural would probably win, unless I had a very specific color palette in mind from the start.

edit to add: unless you’re talking about my post from several pages ago, in which case I just thank you and continue trying to be patient while I wait.

 

[IvanBassist]

Talkbass made a whole mess of this.

View attachment 4914429
View attachment 4914429 View attachment 4914430 View attachment 4914431 View attachment 4914432

Love the look of buckeye burl

 

[DavidJamesNHBass]

I used this on my natural finish Warwicks for years. The stuff works great and its 10 bucks at home depot.

I use it on every bass...fretboard and neck. Tony Franklin has been using it for years.
Then a touch of denatured alcohol dabbed on a thin cotton cloth, pinch around them to clean the strings of any residue.
Available at Lowe's too.

 

[NeonVomit]

So I'm eyeing my next custom build (a Dingwall Z3, Fodera Emperor Standard or Marleaux Consat) - a fretless 6. I own basses from all 3 builders and imo they're in the same world-class category in terms of build quality, so I know whatever I'm getting I'll be happy with feel/quality/sound wise.

I have an Ibanez BTB fretless 6 that is nice but I want to upgrade. The main question here is how easy/tricky is it to adjust to fretless multiscale? I didn't find the adjustment from standard to multiscale that difficult, does the same apply to fretless? Or is it a whole different story? Anyone have any experience with them? Unsurprisingly it's pretty damn tricky to find a fretless Dingwall to have a go on out here, the dealer is fantastic, but they only have fretted Combustion & NG instruments in stock.

 

[NOLA Bass]

Well, in 2016, street price was over $5K.


It is interesting you say that. I know the AB1 I have now came from there, but I got it from someone in the US. Kicker is they didn't do anything to the box and you're right - that box was not worth its salt. I'd probably buy one of these from them and have them ship in it instead:

View attachment 4914961
But I understand the concern for sure.

I went with the case for that as well.

 

[NaH]

So I'm eyeing my next custom build (a Dingwall Z3, Fodera Emperor Standard or Marleaux Consat) - a fretless 6. I own basses from all 3 builders and imo they're in the same world-class category in terms of build quality, so I know whatever I'm getting I'll be happy with feel/quality/sound wise.

I have an Ibanez BTB fretless 6 that is nice but I want to upgrade. The main question here is how easy/tricky is it to adjust to fretless multiscale? I didn't find the adjustment from standard to multiscale that difficult, does the same apply to fretless? Or is it a whole different story? Anyone have any experience with them? Unsurprisingly it's pretty damn tricky to find a fretless Dingwall to have a go on out here, the dealer is fantastic, but they only have fretted Combustion & NG instruments in stock.

I have a fretless. No adjustment at all. You will love it. Bass Direct UK has a couple right now. Only place I’ve seen any in a while short of individual customs.

 

[seedokebass]

Question for the collective:

I have a can of D5 and F5 on the way for some other guitar pots and noticed the 4 way switch on my NG3 4 is a little scratchy when switching.

Out of precaution, is it safe to use Deoxit on the 4 way rotary switches? I'm assuming it's fine to use those products but I'd rather not muck it up!

 

[NeonVomit]

I have a fretless. No adjustment at all. You will love it. Bass Direct UK has a couple right now. Only place I’ve seen any in a while short of individual customs.

Cool, good to hear! Yeah I saw those, they look excellent but I'm not in a rush to buy now (not like I can anyway!) and I'd rather not compromise and get a 5, and I want a Z! Plus the long build time lets you pay bit by bit, which suits me!

 

[smeet]

DRs will work, but you'll have to get a Extra Long B-String. They make those in the Hi-Beams series, I've gotten by by ordering single strings but if you fall in love with those you can order custom sets from DR. Those are priced like the standard sets with a minor upcharge, but you'll have to order a minimum of 12 sets. That's still a lot cheaper than paying 23€ for a single B-string

Thanks for the info! I put on a set of Lo-Riders and I really like them. The nut taper on the B string is about 1/4” short, but it feels and sounds fine.

Jason at Fret Nation said they can do a mod to allow the shorter B string to work correctly on the NG3. Does anybody know what that mod is?

 

[Blues Cat]

Thanks for the info! I put on a set of Lo-Riders and I really like them. The nut taper on the B string is about 1/4” short, but it feels and sounds fine.

Jason at Fret Nation said they can do a mod to allow the shorter B string to work correctly on the NG3. Does anybody know what that mod is?

They install a new nut with a smaller B string nut slot that only fits the headstock taper wind down of the smaller diameter. So if you ever wanted to switch to a fanned string set designed for Fanned Basses 37”-34”, you’d have to change the nut back to your old one. Not optimal for most players.

 

[smeet]

They install a new nut with a smaller B string nut slot that only fits the headstock taper wind down of the smaller diameter. So if you ever wanted to switch to a fanned string set designed for Fanned Basses 37”-34”, you’d have to change the nut back to your old one. Not optimal for most players.

Thanks, yeah I don't like that idea. It is probably fine as is really, but I wonder if there is something I can put in the slot to temporarily raise the B up a bit...? I don't want to compromise the sound of the B string.

 

[NaH]

Thanks, yeah I don't like that idea. It is probably fine as is really, but I wonder if there is something I can put in the slot to temporarily raise the B up a bit...? I don't want to compromise the sound of the B string.

I have heard others just put a little heat shrink tubing in if the string is slightly loose. Read on this forum somewhere though I have never had to do.

 

[SemiDriven]

Question for the collective:

I have a can of D5 and F5 on the way for some other guitar pots and noticed the 4 way switch on my NG3 4 is a little scratchy when switching.

Out of precaution, is it safe to use Deoxit on the 4 way rotary switches? I'm assuming it's fine to use those products but I'd rather not muck it up!

I've used it on pots & switches. I haven't mucked a switch up yet. I use as little as possible.

 

[AB Nate]

So I'm eyeing my next custom build (a Dingwall Z3, Fodera Emperor Standard or Marleaux Consat) - a fretless 6. I own basses from all 3 builders and imo they're in the same world-class category in terms of build quality, so I know whatever I'm getting I'll be happy with feel/quality/sound wise.

I have an Ibanez BTB fretless 6 that is nice but I want to upgrade. The main question here is how easy/tricky is it to adjust to fretless multiscale? I didn't find the adjustment from standard to multiscale that difficult, does the same apply to fretless? Or is it a whole different story? Anyone have any experience with them? Unsurprisingly it's pretty damn tricky to find a fretless Dingwall to have a go on out here, the dealer is fantastic, but they only have fretted Combustion & NG instruments in stock.

if your familiar to the fan it really is almost natural. I have 2 killer unlined fretless 6 strings and I’ve been playing a Z neck for years. The Dongwall fretless feels very natural to me. The parallel feet spector less so. I wish the Spector had lines.
Both are amazing sounding. I may even give the nod to the Spector as I love the EMGs but of course the Dingwall pups are no slouch and the playability easily gives it the win.

 

[NeonVomit]

It has to be said there were a few times recently during gigs where I was playing my Ibanez (lined) fretless and I found myself thinking that maybe multiscale could actually be easier! Although I'm pretty sure I'd go for lined fretless - unlined multiscale fretless is pushing it a tad too far for me, especially considering the dense mix, headbanging and less-than-ideal lighting conditions I play in, having an easy visual reference to make sure I'm in the right spot is very helpful.

 

[AB Nate]

It has to be said there were a few times recently during gigs where I was playing my Ibanez (lined) fretless and I found myself thinking that maybe multiscale could actually be easier! Although I'm pretty sure I'd go for lined fretless - unlined multiscale fretless is pushing it a tad too far for me, especially considering the dense mix, headbanging and less-than-ideal lighting conditions I play in, having an easy visual reference to make sure I'm in the right spot is very helpful.

if you’re loving the Neck of your AB and have no qualms about the multiscale I bet you’d dig it a lot then.
It really does seem intuitive but I hear you about the lines. I originally wanted a form of a fragmented line layout but the shop was unable to oblige. If they had the fragmented line option they do now I would have went for that.

I figured at the time going completely blank left me options for future modification to get something more to my liking, which I kind of did already and had Mo at Nordstrand add some luminlay side dots ON the lines, where I like them on a fretless and some fretboard dots between 12-24.

 

[shade_1313]

if you’re loving the Neck of your AB and have no qualms about the multiscale I bet you’d dig it a lot then.
It really does seem intuitive but I hear you about the lines. I originally wanted a form of a fragmented line layout but the shop was unable to oblige. If they had the fragmented line option they do now I would have went for that.

I figured at the time going completely blank left me options for future modification to get something more to my liking, which I kind of did already and had Mo at Nordstrand add some luminlay side dots ON the lines, where I like them on a fretless and some fretboard dots between 12-24.

The segmented lines are something I want on my planned fretless Dingwall for aesthetic reasons as much as for guidance. It’s all a part of an overall vision.

 

[Sheldon D.]

Question for the collective:

I have a can of D5 and F5 on the way for some other guitar pots and noticed the 4 way switch on my NG3 4 is a little scratchy when switching.

Out of precaution, is it safe to use Deoxit on the 4 way rotary switches? I'm assuming it's fine to use those products but I'd rather not muck it up!

Deoxit is safe to use on your 4-way rotary. However, I recommend just cycling the switch 5 or so times to see if that wipes the contacts clean. Keep in mind the switch should be silent when rotating with the strings muted. If there is signal flowing through the switch, you will get noise when the contacts open and close.

 

[gustobassman]

Had the last reggae night for the year at a local venue last night. Mean Green sounded so fat.. The new preamp is on point! Our sax player is either really feeling it or he's got narcolepsy. He's been touring with Steel Pulse as of late so it's freaking awesome when we get to have him. Tons of compliments on my tone last night, I really like the "that doesn't sound like a Dingwall" ones i get, lol.. I just reply with "yes... yes it does".

 

[cxcxcx]

Had the last reggae night for the year at a local venue last night. Mean Green sounded so fat.. The new preamp is on point! Our sax player is either really feeling it or he's got narcolepsy. He's been touring with Steel Pulse as of late so it's freaking awesome when we get to have him. Tons of compliments on my tone last night, I really like the "that doesn't sound like a Dingwall" ones i get, lol.. I just reply with "yes... yes it does".

Let’s go with them audio/video clips. You and that bass sound great! I probably won’t ever put flats on a Dingwall but you’ve made me consider it!