Dingwall Owners Club

[Hunter34]

NG2 to NG3 upgrade! (Well, sort of! )

Objective: Replace preamp, install another FD3N, make all of the pups internally switchable between series and parallel, open up new possible combinations of pups with a 6-way switch, maintain the active/passive nature. Keep all of the controls stock. No new holes.

I declare success!

Each individual pup gets a different tone based on where they are located. (Duh!) Bridge-bright, neck-not so bright. Each pup is wired to a B50k pot (standard) with a DPDT switch. Neck -> treble, Middle -> midrange, Bridge -> bass. The down position is parallel for the pup. Up is series. In parallel, the mids are scooped. In series, the mids are emphasized.

The volume control is now a CTS 250K DPDT. (I couldn't find CTS pots in 50K for the tone controls, oh well!) The down position is active, the up position is passive.

The preamp is a Nordstrand 3B. The toggle switch was converted from active/passive to mid-range center frequency for the mid-range control.

I wired in a Fretnation 6-way switch exactly as they instruct. (See graphic) This gives me a great set of combinations of pups in-relation-to-each-other. For instance, I could have the switch in position 2, for bridge and middle in parallel to each other, but have the individual pups in series internally. (They come wired parallel from the factory.) Or even one in series internally with one in parallel internally, with both wired together in parallel in relation to each other.

The range of tones is mind-boggling. Position-6 with each pup series internal is about as monstrous a tone as you will ever need. I mean, maybe you COULD wire all three in series internally as well as in relation to each other. Position 3 with pups pulled to series might get damn close! There's what... 6 times 3 combinations? 18 different wiring combinations!

Here are a couple of pictures of in progress.

My biggest complaint against the Fretnation switch is the instructions are not clear at all. Now that I've done one, I can understand the instructions. But having never done it, it was confusing as hell. I don't know why they don't add some pictures with arrows. I accidentally swapped the tab a and tab d connections which I found out during the wiring "debugging" stage. Anyway...

The only thing I might do one of these days is convert the toggle switch to a B250K DPDT in order to keep the mid-range frequency pivot, but also add a tone control for passive operation. Right now, there is no tone control in passive. Honestly, I'm not sure I need it with the available switching combinations.

I'm happy!

 

[Waltsdog]

In 2010 I paid $4400… CAD mind you for my AB2

at the time that was ALOT of money for a broke ass metal player considering my most expensive previous bass was $1k

You must have had some nice option on that for the 2010 price to be so high.

As we're on the price nostalgia train, my combustion was $1400 CAD back in 2017ish.

 

[Smallmouth_Bass]

I am glad that I got in when I did, because I wouldn't be able to afford it and still be married today!

 

[beatdatthang]

Ok so like, I want to add a D-tuner to my ABZ.

I can get the standard Grover-style Hipshot tuner, but would that work? Also the tuning pegs on the ABZ are sort of different - they're kind of 'square'ish around the edges if that makes sense. I mean it's a tiny difference but I want to be as consistent as possible innit.

Do y'all know if you can get your hands on a D-tuner with those specific tuner pegs?

You need a Hipshot Ultralite Y key 3/8” and it’s a drop in. I have one on my ABZ.

 

[groovaholic]

I am glad that I got in when I did, because I wouldn't be able to afford it and still be married today!

I resemble this comment...

 

[Laklandfan]

Fellow Minnesotans or anyone nearby, this popped up today at a Music Go Round of all places. Looks awesome but I don't like the color. And I'm not in the market lol

Dingwall Afterburner II Extended Range Fanned Fret Five String Bass Dingwall Afterburner II Extended Range Fanned Fret Five String Bass | Reverb

I’d love a used ABII for a used price, but that finish is so dark I still don’t know what color it is.

 

[Smallmouth_Bass]

I’d love a used ABII for a used price, but that finish is so dark I still don’t know what color it is.

I think it's trans black (burst?), which can look dark purple in the middle.

 

[NeonVomit]

Damn... that is NOT a good look :s I'm waiting to place my order for an ABII and I think I'll just leave it natural finish!

 

[groovaholic]

I think it's trans black (burst?), which can look dark purple in the middle.

My first Dingwall was that trans-black, and it's a more appealing and interesting finish than the photos indicate.

Just from the way the pigment interacts with the grain, there is a lot of polarization - so it will appear black in some light, grey in other light, and purple sometimes.

It's like a color-shift...especially under stage lights.

 

[groovaholic]

I've been playing my bass in passive mode lately, and really enjoying the sound.

The preamp in the bass is no slouch - a Nordstrand 3B; I like that the Nordy's EQ is flat at center detent, and there's no gain boost unless you dial one in.

It's been my favorite pre in this bass so far; the bass came with a Bartolini NTMB-F, then I installed a Bart TBIBT, then a Darkglass Tone Capsule, and now the Nordy.

I think I keep trying stuff out because the buffering and impedance change from every preamp I've tried so far alters the tonal profile in a way that I'm not liking. And when I think about it, the dual-buffered signal chain of the TBIBT was the one that moved the bass farthest from my preference.

Are there any preamps that truly sound the same flat as the bass sounds passive?

Right now I'm leaning toward removing the active electronics from the bass and replacing with a passive, bypassable varitone circuit.

 

[retroXvertigo]

I'm no help there. I have a passive Z6/3 on order.

I'm not an active bass guy.

 

[groovaholic]

I'm no help there. I have a passive Z6/3 on order.

I'm not an active bass guy.

I always had been an active bass guy.

Maybe it’s because I got a new amp this week and was doing some critical listening, but the tone I was hearing straight off the pickups was exactly the tone I’ve been trying to get out of this bass.

Active was adding brightness, but losing a certain vocal quality in the mids and a feeling of openness.
What had been a struggle to rein-in the brightness of the bass became a really enjoyable deep-dive into detail and clarity.

 

[AB Nate]

I always had been an active bass guy.

Maybe it’s because I got a new amp this week and was doing some critical listening, but the tone I was hearing straight off the pickups was exactly the tone I’ve been trying to get out of this bass.

Active was adding brightness, but losing a certain vocal quality in the mids and a feeling of openness.
What had been a struggle to rein-in the brightness of the bass became a really enjoyable deep-dive into detail and clarity.

What didya get?

 

[Jeff Roller]

Dingwall NG3X with six way rotary switch from Mo, P tone in the neck position, paintjob by Pat Wilkins, PG by WD music, knobs by D-Cline, some random guy's beater parked behind it.

Okay, I know the guy with the Vette, I asked him to drive it for this photo on a pretty day last week.

 

[Hunter34]

Dingwall NG3X with six way rotary switch from Mo, P tone in the neck position, paintjob by Pat Wilkins, PG by WD music, knobs by D-Cline, some random guy's beater parked behind it.

Okay, I know the guy with the Vette, I asked him to drive it for this photo on a pretty day last week.

View attachment 4993359

Nice!!! Here's my yellow on yellow.... At least yours matches. I always thought Ducati Yellow and Ferrari Yellow were the same, but I found out they are slightly different.

 

[Hunter34]

It's been my favorite pre in this bass so far; the bass came with a Bartolini NTMB-F, then I installed a Bart TBIBT, then a Darkglass Tone Capsule, and now the Nordy.

Did you ever try an Audere Pro-Z? I just put one in my Ibanez Portamento fretless and I'm really liking it. The Z-switch puts three different impedances between the pups and the preamp and obviously three different tones. The Nordy in my NG3 is definitely clean, but I think the Audere might be even more organic. I swear I saw an "active/passive upgrade kit" advertised on his site, but I might be mistaken. I had gotten the Nordy for the Ibanez before I decided to get the Audere, so when I went that direction on the Ibby, I decided to put the Nord in the NG3. I'm pretty happy all the way around, but I think if I did it again, I'd put the Pro-Z in the NG3 as well.

 

[singlemalt]

Ive had a couple preamps in Dingwall, an Aguilar OP1 in a super PJ4 and the Glockenlang in another Super PJ5. I preferred passive in both. I thought the Glock was the closest to what you seem to want. Transparent.

Set flat, there was almost no difference between the pre being off and on. Since it was a push pull pot on the volume (if I remember right) I wouldn't notice if it was on unless I did something with the tone knob. Then it wouldn't do what I expected and I'd realize I'd engaged the pre. I think the pre was on in the down position and off (passive mode) in the up position. I'd turn it on without meaning to. So, I kept the pre set flat, and tried not to turn it on.

And all my Dingwalls are passive now, I don't miss onboard preamps at all. I'm finding the less knobs and choice the better for me. But that's just me. I've had the AB-1 4string on the bridge pup with tone rolled back for months now. The Super P hybrid tone control is super sweet. The traditional tone roll off on one side off the detent and a scoop on the other. Reminds me of the Bluequbes I had in earlier versions of the AB-1's. I really liked that thing.

Funny thing, I was always an active J bass guy for years. Don't miss batteries and preamps at all.

 

[groovaholic]

Did you ever try an Audere Pro-Z?

I haven't tried an Audere, and my biggest hesitation would be the lack of a passive mode.

I thought the Glock was the closest to what you seem to want. Transparent.

The Glock is another preamp I'd like to try, but not enough to go through the time and expense of finding one.

Don't miss batteries and preamps at all.

I'm coming to that same realization - I just removed the preamp and batteries from my bass and I'm perfectly happy with the variety of tones that I can still get.

Honestly, I barely ever used the onboard EQ & would probably be fine with the bass as-is, but the open holes on the face of the bass will bug me - and the three knobs I removed made a noticeable difference in the balance of the bass. (Princess and the Pea; that's me)

Since I already have the necessary parts on-hand - I'll wire up the varitone circuit.
Also, without the preamp and batteries, the active/passive switch is now just a kill-switch, so I might go to a larger switch and just install a plug in the small hole that would be left by removal of the current switch.

 

[DeltaPhoenix]

My Z3x string has a DGTC. I like it active, it certainly has an eq bump when on but I tend to bump my mids one way or another.
What surprised me with this bass is that it is even more aggressive sounding when it’s passive.
I like both options but tend to use it active.

 

[silky smoove]

The Glock is another preamp I'd like to try, but not enough to go through the time and expense of finding one.

Glockenklang used to sell the same, or a similar preamp to the one put in Dingwalls. Shouldn't be too hard to source.

I have one in my Super J, and as others have said it is exceedingly transparent with the controls centered. I can't perceive any tonal or level difference between active and passive modes. Having the passive tone control (cut positions on the treble pot) still function when in passive mode is very helpful. On some gigs I've left active tone controls on a specific setting, and then used the push-pull pot to toggle between two different tones for specific tunes. It works very well. Highly recommended.