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Dingwall Owners Club

#53,641
BuffaloBob4343 said:
Does anyone here know why the tool kit for combustions for sale on the Dingwall Store site has 4 wrenches instead of the 3 my Nolly came with? The larger of the two black ones did not come with my original tool kit. I wonder if something was modded later on that required a fourth, or did they just not have them at the time my bass was shipped? Inquiring minds want to know. :D

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]
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If anyone is interested, I have my answer from Dingwall tech:

"The picture that was used on our store site shows a wrench that is no longer used. The fourth wrench that is shown is used for string height and intonation adjustments on older model Combustions and NGs with a different design of bridge."

Mystery solved.
 
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#53,642
5StringPocket said:
The Dingwall website has had a number of upgrades since the last time I visited. They are really well designed basses but quality doesn't come cheap, so if you omit fancy tops and other features which you don't use or that don't affect the tone what would it look like? For me it is a 5-string, 3-pickup, passive model around 9 lbs with a wenge neck/FB and 18mm string spacing. I also don't need 24 frets. What I ended up favoring was a D-ROC Custom. The strap balance seems surprisingly good and I like how that metallic red goes with the wenge. I also like the pickup combinations that the quad tone selector provides.

Most of my practice is done in the seated position. For those familiar with the D-ROC, is it comfortable to play in the seated position? Also, is there a tonal difference between wenge vs maple neck with the wenge FB or is it more of a tactile feel difference?
D-ROC Custom - Dingwall
D-Roc-3x-Passive-Burgundy-Mist-Wenge-Wenge-White-Pearloid-Elipse-BS-SN-6446-e.jpg
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It's not at all bad in your lap. I spend most of my time playing it in a sitting position with a pick and nothing really comes in my way. The arched body design really makes all the difference here compared to some firebirds and explorers I've tried before. If you haven't played one of these before you should know that the upper fret access is also limited by the neck joint which goes all the way to the 14/15th fret. It's easy enough to manouver around but with some phrases it can be a bit of an obstacle.

On the topic of neck woods, I'd say that the most difference you're going to notice is in how the different woods feel. Wenge is an incredible neck wood due to the open and coarse grain while maple feels very uniform and solid, they also have a pretty drastic color difference and looks cannot be understated when building a custom bass. You might also want to take a look at the roasted northern ash they offer, it's dark in colour and should feel more similar to maple.

That being said, my D-Rocs are invaluable tools for me and I use them all the time. To me their sound has the best balance between warmth and articulation. Here's my 4-string on my bands debut single:
 
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#53,643
Paajanenae said:
It's not at all bad in your lap. I spend most of my time playing it in a sitting position with a pick and nothing really comes in my way. The arched body design really makes all the difference here compared to some firebirds and explorers I've tried before. If you haven't played one of these before you should know that the upper fret access is also limited by the neck joint which goes all the way to the 14/15th fret. It's easy enough to manouver around but with some phrases it can be a bit of an obstacle.

On the topic of neck woods, I'd say that the most difference you're going to notice is in how the different woods feel. Wenge is an incredible neck wood due to the open and coarse grain while maple feels very uniform and solid, they also have a pretty drastic color difference and looks cannot be understated when building a custom bass. You might also want to take a look at the roasted northern ash they offer, it's dark in colour and should feel more similar to maple.

That being said, my D-Rocs are invaluable tools for me and I use them all the time. To me their sound has the best balance between warmth and articulation. Here's my 4-string on my bands debut single:
Click to expand...

To add to his -

The DROC weight and how thin the actual body is was one of the things I noticed first. I had a Spector bass at the time and thought that bass was thin - WRONG - the DROC is on another level with how light and comfortable it is to either be sitting down or standing up, strapped up. The body thin-ness is truly one of the standouts in that design, in my opinion.

I found the body shape to be super cozy while sitting, probably even better than the Spectors NS shape or at least equally satisfying in that department.
 
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#53,644
Paajanenae said:
It's not at all bad in your lap. I spend most of my time playing it in a sitting position with a pick and nothing really comes in my way. The arched body design really makes all the difference here compared to some firebirds and explorers I've tried before. If you haven't played one of these before you should know that the upper fret access is also limited by the neck joint which goes all the way to the 14/15th fret. It's easy enough to manouver around but with some phrases it can be a bit of an obstacle.

On the topic of neck woods, I'd say that the most difference you're going to notice is in how the different woods feel. Wenge is an incredible neck wood due to the open and coarse grain while maple feels very uniform and solid, they also have a pretty drastic color difference and looks cannot be understated when building a custom bass. You might also want to take a look at the roasted northern ash they offer, it's dark in colour and should feel more similar to maple.

That being said, my D-Rocs are invaluable tools for me and I use them all the time. To me their sound has the best balance between warmth and articulation. Here's my 4-string on my bands debut single:
Click to expand...

Thanks that’s good info. I like your single and the bass tracks well in the mix. I also like a balance between warmth and articulation and play a bit more old school but think this model could cover that too. I don’t spend much time at the dusty end past the 15th fret so that shouldn’t be an issue.
 
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#53,648
I found this interesting D-Roc 5 video in which the neck and middle pickups were switched (at 3:45 in) with the connecting wires left intact. The effect on the 4-position switch:
Pos Original => Modified
1. Bridge solo => Bridge solo
2. B+M Parallel => B+N Parallel
3. Middle solo => Neck solo
4. B+M Par/Ser N => B+N Par/Ser M

Position 2 would change from a Music Man vibe to more of a jazz vibe and Position 3 would change from middle solo to neck solo. The modified settings seem like good ones and the mod is reversible. This is similar to the July 6th Post #53415 (pg 2671) except that no wiring modifications were needed.
 
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#53,649
Katoosie said:
To add to his -

The DROC weight and how thin the actual body is was one of the things I noticed first. I had a Spector bass at the time and thought that bass was thin - WRONG - the DROC is on another level with how light and comfortable it is to either be sitting down or standing up, strapped up. The body thin-ness is truly one of the standouts in that design, in my opinion.

I found the body shape to be super cozy while sitting, probably even better than the Spectors NS shape or at least equally satisfying in that department.
Click to expand...

I can't believe I forgot this, the weight is a huge factor. My Sunburst D-Roc is the lightest of all my basses – and I have a short scale Mustang in the collection. I don't own a scale, but the D-Roc weights the same as my Squier Affinity strat (which has a thinner body than a normal strat), so under 3.4kg for sure.
 
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#53,651
Is the d-tuner from the factory on the Canadian models just a standard hipshot. Wasn't sure if there were specialized dimensions or anything. Also, one other question - when changing strings what length do you cut them to? I end up getting them longer than the factory does. The general rule I've used is "two tuner holes" and then add a little as you move to thinner strings. But that was for 2-3 wraps and Dingwall's usually have one wrap, if even a complete wrap.
 
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#53,652
MultiScaleMale said:
Is the d-tuner from the factory on the Canadian models just a standard hipshot. Wasn't sure if there were specialized dimensions or anything. Also, one other question - when changing strings what length do you cut them to? I end up getting them longer than the factory does. The general rule I've used is "two tuner holes" and then add a little as you move to thinner strings. But that was for 2-3 wraps and Dingwall's usually have one wrap, if even a complete wrap.
Click to expand...

I do the same, but it's always a little hit and miss on how well I do. The thinner strings seem to be more forgiving if you leave a little extra.
 
#53,655
5StringPocket said:
This video showcases the different pickups side by side. The FD3 seems to have a higher output with more cut than the FDV and the SFII really does have some bottom to it.
Click to expand...

Is it me or does the neck FDV sound more aggressive/punchy than the P sample at the end?
 
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#53,656
IvanBassist said:
Is it me or does the neck FDV sound more aggressive/punchy than the P sample at the end?
Click to expand...

I have two Dingwalls, one with 3 FDVs and the other with 3 P-Tones. I guess the P-Tones in the single shell are different than the P-Tone P bass pickup, but with my basses the P-Tones and far more aggressive.
 
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#53,659
Katoosie said:
Any peepes here using some VSTs or DSPs? What are your favourites?

I've bought a few plugins today but I thought I would ask here as well.
Click to expand...

I’ve got the Neural DSP plug-in, but I haven’t gotten comfortable using it. It’s fairly cpu heavy in real time (small buffer). Some of the presets have been pretty good. I seem to get lost trying to make the cab sim work with mic selection and placement.

I also use Ugritone IR. Some are better than others. They’re mostly guitar focused.

I think I downloaded the Does it Doom free IR pack too, but haven’t spent much time with it.

I recently started going through Guitar Rig 5 again. There’s decent presets in that VST. The current GR6 version adds some extra bass options and might be worth a look.
 
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#53,660
MultiScaleMale said:
Is the d-tuner from the factory on the Canadian models just a standard hipshot. Wasn't sure if there were specialized dimensions or anything. Also, one other question - when changing strings what length do you cut them to? I end up getting them longer than the factory does. The general rule I've used is "two tuner holes" and then add a little as you move to thinner strings. But that was for 2-3 wraps and Dingwall's usually have one wrap, if even a complete wrap.
Click to expand...

I usually eyeball about 2-2 1/2” past the tuning post the string is going on. It gives me around 1 wrap
 
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