Yes, awfully tempted to get P-tone/FD3/SFii (Neve) with my SJ5 build, even though it may not be ‘recommended’ and see where to go from there.
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Dingwall Owners Club
- Thread starter FroggyOne2
- Start date
I know current pre-order-to-build timeframe estimates seem to be in the 18 to 24 months ballpark, but out of curiosity, for those of you who recently received their custom DW, what was the overall delay from the original build slot estimated date (I’m on an original March 2023 build slot)?
They’ve updated their FAQ estimated delivery time to 24-28 months, fwiw, but I think that’s optimistic. I just received my Z3-6 build a couple weeks ago. Ordered it on a 9 month slot, it took another 2.5+ years, so 3 years and 3 months total. Hope that helps!
I’m honestly considering putting in a “just in case” order on the chance that in 2+ years time I want another build, because that was a pretty painful wait tbh. Life is short and 3 years is a not insignificant chunk of it to be without your dream bass.
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I got my bass in October of 2023. My original delivery date was projected to be October of 2022. (I believe it was an August build slot).
Stories like this are why I jumped on a used Z that was close enough to what I probably would've ended up ordering... I'm barely patient enough while waiting for UPS to deliver something after I place an order, let alone several years!
But I do get it for those with the patience for it, there must be something truly magical about it being 100% your "design" - almost like a signature model by one of the best builders in the world
But I do get it for those with the patience for it, there must be something truly magical about it being 100% your "design" - almost like a signature model by one of the best builders in the world
Stories like this are why I jumped on a used Z that was close enough to what I probably would've ended up ordering... I'm barely patient enough while waiting for UPS to deliver something after I place an order, let alone several years!
But I do get it for those with the patience for it, there must be something truly magical about it being 100% your "design" - almost like a signature model by one of the best builders in the world
I was fortunate enough to have place holder Dingwalls while I waited for my custom.
That worked well for me because they retain their value very well. Especially for the Canadian models.
I got spoiled by Brady Muckelroy with getting bespoke instruments to my specs.
Honestly, the perfect bass for me would probably be a Muckelroy with a Dingwall multiscale length and the Z bridge.
Not to say my Z isn't amazing. It truly is. I might be overtaking my Muck for my all time #1.
I've spoken with a couple dealers very recently (i.e. throughout last week). The clearest info I was able to get suggests that, if you don't go with a dealer who has a slot reserved, you're more looking at 36+ months currently. Also from what I've gathered, model and spec does matter a little bit as well.
Ok, understood.
Do you mean there are no difference between neck and bridge except polarity? (And I can just rotate it and that's it?)
Shortly before heading off to NAMM, I scored a sweet old 4-string Voodoo Prima in excellent condition. I showed Sheldon some pics, and he remembered building the bass for Paul Slagle (who really loved wenge, and who I believe worked for Mike Tobias). It was very cool that Sheldon remembered the bass, and I am amazed at the condition, considering its age. As you would expect, it plays like a dream, and it is also fairly light. I just really have a thing for 4-string Dingwalls (this makes my 5th, plus a 5-string Z3).
awesome bass, one of the finest Dingwall 4er I've ever seen. Congratz
Laugh it up, I literally went to our local dealer on Friday and asked him to change my fretless ABII 6 I have on order to look like this (natural walnut top, vomit green sides & back with high gloss). Estimated delivery is June 2025 so I got time to change my mind if it was just temporary psychosis or something.
How was your experience with dual filters? I rarely use the EQ on my bass, so looking at other ways of putting the onboard controls to work.
I'm about to buy a 6 string Combustion and I'm already thinking about which 6-way rotary wire up I should use 
Solo bridge, solo neck, and bridge and neck in parallel are staying but I'm torn on the other three.
I've never been a huge fan of musicman tones, not that I'm against them, I just haven't gravitated toward them. So the bridge + middle in parallel and series aren't a given. I'm toying with bridge and neck in series, neck and middle in parallel, and all three on.
Does anyone have experience with any of these configurations?
Solo bridge, solo neck, and bridge and neck in parallel are staying but I'm torn on the other three.
I've never been a huge fan of musicman tones, not that I'm against them, I just haven't gravitated toward them. So the bridge + middle in parallel and series aren't a given. I'm toying with bridge and neck in series, neck and middle in parallel, and all three on.
Does anyone have experience with any of these configurations?
I just had similar questions a few pages back, if you wanted to check out some of the responses.
This is what I am waiting on from fretnation for my z with FDVs and a DGTC, fwiw - I do like the MM positions though (parallel is pretty different, liked it on the now sold DRoc and both parallel and series on the previous typical 6 way switch I had in the NG3 I've since sold):
1) Bridge & Middle in Parallel/Series Neck
2) Neck Solo,
3) Neck and Middle in Parallel,
4) Bridge & Neck in Parallel,
5) Bridge & Middle in Parallel,
6) Bridge & Middle in Series
People didn't seem too hot on bridge and neck in series or neck and middle in series, but I haven't tried those myself. My thought is that neck and middle parallel may be somewhat similar to my MM Bongo with the neck pickup at 100%, if I change those pups to parallel wiring as well (planning to also add s/p switches)
This is what I am waiting on from fretnation for my z with FDVs and a DGTC, fwiw - I do like the MM positions though (parallel is pretty different, liked it on the now sold DRoc and both parallel and series on the previous typical 6 way switch I had in the NG3 I've since sold):
1) Bridge & Middle in Parallel/Series Neck
2) Neck Solo,
3) Neck and Middle in Parallel,
4) Bridge & Neck in Parallel,
5) Bridge & Middle in Parallel,
6) Bridge & Middle in Series
People didn't seem too hot on bridge and neck in series or neck and middle in series, but I haven't tried those myself. My thought is that neck and middle parallel may be somewhat similar to my MM Bongo with the neck pickup at 100%, if I change those pups to parallel wiring as well (planning to also add s/p switches)
Thanks! I'm surprised by this given how many jazz basses are modified to get both pickups in series.
Neck and middle in series seems like it'd be too many low mids
I remember drooling over that bass in the TB classifieds, many years before I got my first (and only) Dingwall, when Paul had it listed. Still gorgeous.Shortly before heading off to NAMM, I scored a sweet old 4-string Voodoo Prima in excellent condition. I showed Sheldon some pics, and he remembered building the bass for Paul Slagle (who really loved wenge, and who I believe worked for Mike Tobias). It was very cool that Sheldon remembered the bass, and I am amazed at the condition, considering its age. As you would expect, it plays like a dream, and it is also fairly light. I just really have a thing for 4-string Dingwalls (this makes my 5th, plus a 5-string Z3).
ABXXX and SJXXX with regular 4 position rotary. I use the neck and bridge setting the most, followed by neck only. I don't know how the bass's are wired, but I'll use my switches to taste depending on the room/setting. If I could only have one setting it would be neck and bridge with the neck switch in series and bridge in parallel. Heard good things and I'd really like to try middle only.I'm about to buy a 6 string Combustion and I'm already thinking about which 6-way rotary wire up I should use
Solo bridge, solo neck, and bridge and neck in parallel are staying but I'm torn on the other three.
I've never been a huge fan of musicman tones, not that I'm against them, I just haven't gravitated toward them. So the bridge + middle in parallel and series aren't a given. I'm toying with bridge and neck in series, neck and middle in parallel, and all three on.
Does anyone have experience with any of these configurations?
Here is what I have in my Z with toggles and my NG3 6 without toggles.
1. (fully clockwise) Neck Solo
2. Middle solo
3. M/N parallel
4. Jazz parallel
5. Jazz series
6. (fully counter clockwise) B/M series
I find the N/M setting to be a really nice setting for upper register soloing. It a a smooth and thick sound.
I love B/N in series. It’s one of my go tos.
B/M is another home base.
these offer me a lot of diversity. I do like the all in setting but I don’t find it super usable in comparison. With that adding the toggles really helps for refinement of any pick up combination.
on the Z I usually keep neck in parallel and bring in series depending on settings.
B/N in series is a fav of mine.
When you run two pickups in series with each other do you usually have one of the pickups internally in parallel so the sound isn't too thick?
