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Dingwall Owners Club

Does the discrepancy affect the playing experience? I could see a little more relief on the bass side being advantageous, assuming the neck is stable.
A bit of buzzing on the treble side up to the 12th fret which has lower relief. Overall it plays well but it does need a setup due to the difference in climate.

I will be taking it to my luthier on Monday to get his professional opinion.
 
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So I got some measurements for the string action and the relief.

Relief (measured at the 7th fret with a capo on the 1st fret and me pressing down on the fret where the neck meets the body.
- B string (it's a 5er) 0.60 mm or 1/32"
- G string 0.30mm or 1/64"

Action measured at the 12th fret with no capo.
- B string 2.50 mm
- G string 1.75 mm

I've attached some pictures of the action gauge as you requested.

What do you think?

Ok if you have a luthier that you can trust, have him take a look and give you his honest opinion
 
Hey all,

Just picked up my first Dingwall (a 2016 Afterburner I) used which arrived from abroad for me. It's got a wenge neck and fingerboard. I've noticed that there is significantly more relief on the bass side compared to the treble side. Is this normal for multiscale instruments?

This concerns me because I'm worried that the neck may have twisted/warped during shipping.

Thanks!

I would reach out to dingwall on this.

I don’t know if there is truth to this but I have a foggy recollection of Sheldon mentioning a difference in relief from bass to treble side can be normal. I have sometimes wished for this on a few basses. lol.

that said, have you ran a straight edge from beginning to end of neck on both sides to confirm your findings, removing the action at the bridge being a factor in your measurements?

Also, the wenge necks are incredibly stable and weather has had very little effect on my wenge necked Dingwalls so at least once you get it dialled in, assuming no repairs are required, you shouldn’t have to adjust it very much over time.
The only thing I would suspect to cause an issue in a wenge neck after it left the factory would be if it got lots of hot sun through a window or hot car or something.

all that said, pics of the rest of the bass are still required
 
I would reach out to dingwall on this.

I don’t know if there is truth to this but I have a foggy recollection of Sheldon mentioning a difference in relief from bass to treble side can be normal. I have sometimes wished for this on a few basses. lol.

that said, have you ran a straight edge from beginning to end of neck on both sides to confirm your findings, removing the action at the bridge being a factor in your measurements?

Also, the wenge necks are incredibly stable and weather has had very little effect on my wenge necked Dingwalls so at least once you get it dialled in, assuming no repairs are required, you shouldn’t have to adjust it very much over time.
The only thing I would suspect to cause an issue in a wenge neck after it left the factory would be if it got lots of hot sun through a window or hot car or something.

all that said, pics of the rest of the bass are still required

I will shoot Dingwall a message with my findings tomorrow. Thanks.

I don't currently own a straight edge long enough to test it out. However, my relief measurements were while pressing down on the fret where the neck meets the body. So I have removed the saddle height from the equation.

Monday it's off to my local luthier for his professional opinion. Hopefully it can be remedied.

I'll take some pics tomorrow when I cool off a bit. I will be honest, it's quite nerve wracking considering the money involved.
 
I will shoot Dingwall a message with my findings tomorrow. Thanks.

I don't currently own a straight edge long enough to test it out. However, my relief measurements were while pressing down on the fret where the neck meets the body. So I have removed the saddle height from the equation.

Monday it's off to my local luthier for his professional opinion. Hopefully it can be remedied.

I'll take some pics tomorrow when I cool off a bit. I will be honest, it's quite nerve wracking considering the money involved.
Good luck!!
 
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I need to do something about my knobs on my ABII.

Last practice after playing a few songs I could not turn the puppy selector. The only way I managed to do it was with a scarf in my hand, for extra grip. Even then, I struggled.

It's as if the knobs are very tightly screwed/super dry without any lubrication.

@edit

Hit the post button too soon. The funniest thing is they literally squeak when turning, ugh Hahaha. Our singer heard it and gave me a weird look like "*** was that".
 
Are all of Dingwall's wenge necks gloss with open grain? I thought the wenge neck on my new-to-me AB1 would've been matte or satin, but it's gloss and honestly I despise gloss necks. It's a great feeling neck otherwise and it's currently being saved by the fact that the grain is open, but I'm probably going to carefully take the gloss down to satin soon.
I need to do something about my knobs on my ABII.

Last practice after playing a few songs I could not turn the puppy selector. The only way I managed to do it was with a scarf in my hand, for extra grip. Even then, I struggled.

It's as if the knobs are very tightly screwed/super dry without any lubrication.
The knobs may be pushed down too far and contacting the body. Simple fix to loosen the set screw, raise the knob up just a smidge, and tighten the set screw back down.
 
Are all of Dingwall's wenge necks gloss with open grain? I thought the wenge neck on my new-to-me AB1 would've been matte or satin, but it's gloss and honestly I despise gloss necks. It's a great feeling neck otherwise and it's currently being saved by the fact that the grain is open, but I'm probably going to carefully take the gloss down to satin soon.

Is it possible the neck finish has been "polished" by the playing of former owners or is it entirely uniform, also taking into account headstock finish?
I have three Dingwalls with wenge necks, all satin (built in 2014, 2018, and 2022, respectively).
 
Is it possible the neck finish has been "polished" by the playing of former owners or is it entirely uniform, also taking into account headstock finish?
I have three Dingwalls with wenge necks, all satin (built in 2014, 2018, and 2022, respectively).
Great call and not something I had even considered! Now that you mention it, and since the sun is slightly out I took a closer look and it's not uniform up and down the whole neck. The headstock face is also matte/satin, so you're right, it's been 'polished' either by play-wear or intention.

That makes me feel like it will be less sacrilegious to knock the gloss down.
 
Are all of Dingwall's wenge necks gloss with open grain? I thought the wenge neck on my new-to-me AB1 would've been matte or satin, but it's gloss and honestly I despise gloss necks. It's a great feeling neck otherwise and it's currently being saved by the fact that the grain is open, but I'm probably going to carefully take the gloss down to satin soon..

Is it possible the neck finish has been "polished" by the playing of former owners or is it entirely uniform, also taking into account headstock finish?
I have three Dingwalls with wenge necks, all satin (built in 2014, 2018, and 2022, respectively).

They're supposed to be satin. I've just had a look at my two and the newer one has much less grain feel and is quite glossy on edges (curve's?). It's probably just be polished up with play but I've really not played it for many hours compared to my maple necked D-roc which still feels satin.
The old one has gone quite shiny from 10 years of wear but has much more pronounced grain so the shininess is less noticeable.
 
I need to do something about my knobs on my ABII.

Last practice after playing a few songs I could not turn the puppy selector. The only way I managed to do it was with a scarf in my hand, for extra grip. Even then, I struggled.

It's as if the knobs are very tightly screwed/super dry without any lubrication.

@edit

Hit the post button too soon. The funniest thing is they literally squeak when turning, ugh Hahaha. Our singer heard it and gave me a weird look like "*** was that".
Are the bottoms of the knobs rubbing against the body? It sounds like they maybe just got pushed down and are against the body, to me. They should be up off of it a bit.
 
Are all of Dingwall's wenge necks gloss with open grain? I thought the wenge neck on my new-to-me AB1 would've been matte or satin, but it's gloss and honestly I despise gloss necks. It's a great feeling neck otherwise and it's currently being saved by the fact that the grain is open, but I'm probably going to carefully take the gloss down to satin soon.

The knobs may be pushed down too far and contacting the body. Simple fix to loosen the set screw, raise the knob up just a smidge, and tighten the set screw back down.

Are the bottoms of the knobs rubbing against the body? It sounds like they maybe just got pushed down and are against the body, to me. They should be up off of it a bit.

Thanks.
I'll look at it tomorrow together with tools and report back here with my findings (:
 
The necks are carbon reinforced, they should not be warped in any way.

Were you able to see it before you bough it @Bassinga ?

Really sorry you have to deal with this :(
Sorry for not responding earlier.
Unfortunately I didn't get to try it beforehand but I bought it from a reputable forum poster who assured me the neck was straight and had no issues.
 
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Hey everyone!
Last month I ran a "Git Gud" challenge. It was just a thing I did for a close group of folks to simply log our practice time on a group spreadsheet, support each other, talk through difficult things, lots of encouragement, and a slight little bit of competitiveness.

I'm running it again this month, but opening it up to a much wider audience. I don't want it to really be a talkbass-wide thing, but, I'd like to see if folks here would be interested in doing it?

There's no real requirements. If you want to participate, it'd just be putting your time up on a spreadsheet. I'm hoping folks will continue building a community through interactions on it as well. Post videos. Talk through what you're working on. Show off something you learned. But the guiding light is just to actually practice, and end the month better than it began.

If you're interested, I'd encourage you to just put your name on the March spreadsheet, here:
March '24 Git Gud Challenge

I just ask to keep it to this thread, not broadcasted to TB as a whole.
 
Quick question on pickup swaps (specifically on a Combustion).

I am in the process of sticking a P-tone in to the neck position. Got the hex bolts out and the wiring disconnected from the switch. The pickup feels like it is stuck to the cavity. It wiggles back and forth but does freely pull away from the body. I am trying to be careful and wiggle it lose but Im wondering if there is some adhesive to the foam or something that is holding it down (that may just need to be pulled out with force).

Anyone experience something similar on theirs?
 
Quick question on pickup swaps (specifically on a Combustion).

I am in the process of sticking a P-tone in to the neck position. Got the hex bolts out and the wiring disconnected from the switch. The pickup feels like it is stuck to the cavity. It wiggles back and forth but does freely pull away from the body. I am trying to be careful and wiggle it lose but Im wonder if there is some adhesive or something that is holding it down (that may just need to be pulled out with force).

Anyone experience something similar on theirs?

It's the foam behind the pickup sticking. The adhesive side is typically attached to the Pickup, it may just be that over time the foam got tacky and has stuck to the body as well.
 
It's the foam behind the pickup sticking. The adhesive side is typically attached to the Pickup, it may just be that over time the foam got tacky and has stuck to the body as well.

Yep. I just applied a little more force and it came loose, thanks!

The bottom of my P-Tone pickup.......doesnt have a bottom (the FD3N is sealed) and the screws have surgical tubing (like a Telecaster/Strat pickup). Is foam needed on this P-Tone or just use the surgical tubing? Would feel strange applying foam directly to the magnets.

IMG_5353.jpg
 
Yep. I just applied a little more force and it came loose, thanks!

The bottom of my P-Tone pickup.......doesnt have a bottom (the FD3N is sealed) and the screws have surgical tubing (like a Telecaster/Strat pickup). Is foam needed on this P-Tone or just use the surgical tubing? Would feel strange applying foam directly to the magnets.

View attachment 5369534
You shouldn't need the foam if you're using the surgical tubing. If the problem persists you may need longer tubing.
 
Yep. I just applied a little more force and it came loose, thanks!

The bottom of my P-Tone pickup.......doesnt have a bottom (the FD3N is sealed) and the screws have surgical tubing (like a Telecaster/Strat pickup). Is foam needed on this P-Tone or just use the surgical tubing? Would feel strange applying foam directly to the magnets.

View attachment 5369534

You shouldn't need the foam if you're using the surgical tubing. If the problem persists you may need longer tubing.

I sourced foam locally & applied it to the new pickups when swapping FDV's into my KK3. The tubing alone wasn't cutting it, even when I put longer lengths of it in.
 

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