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Dingwall Owners Club

I have an NG2 5, with Darkglass pre, converted to an NG3 5 with Droc selector switch. I've been playing it since 2017, and absolutely love it, best bass I've ever owned, or played. I've lately been looking at the DROC 5, and just wondered if anyone has played both, and would I be happy with the sound/playability difference? Definitely wouldn't part with the NG3, but the Droc, in blue/purple shift is calling to me!!!
Thnx in advance for opinions!!!
 
I have an NG2 5, with Darkglass pre, converted to an NG3 5 with Droc selector switch. I've been playing it since 2017, and absolutely love it, best bass I've ever owned, or played. I've lately been looking at the DROC 5, and just wondered if anyone has played both, and would I be happy with the sound/playability difference? Definitely wouldn't part with the NG3, but the Droc, in blue/purple shift is calling to me!!!
Thnx in advance for opinions!!!

I had both for a bit, sold the NG3, didn't get along with the Darkglass pre. The D-Roc is more plug and play to me. Playability seems the same, but of course the D-Roc begs you to sling it down low, which might change how you pluck the strings and fret the notes.
 
I have an NG2 5, with Darkglass pre, converted to an NG3 5 with Droc selector switch. I've been playing it since 2017, and absolutely love it, best bass I've ever owned, or played. I've lately been looking at the DROC 5, and just wondered if anyone has played both, and would I be happy with the sound/playability difference? Definitely wouldn't part with the NG3, but the Droc, in blue/purple shift is calling to me!!!
Thnx in advance for opinions!!!
Had an NG-2 (4) for a couple of years alongside my Custom D-Bird: The bird wants to be slung at least a little lower and, unless you have a reach reducing pin installed in your NG, the bird will hang a bit further to your right. Somewhat contrary to their classic looks, the Rocs/Birds are very ergonomic basses.
Upper fret access, of course, is far better on the NG, if that’s important to you. (I‘m changing between my Bird and Roc based on mood and find both offer plenty of access to reach up to at least the 15th fret on the E-string and the 17th fret on the D-string when tuning BEAD.)

Hanging on a strap, the Dbird is perfectly balanced. But it does roll out from your body. Not a bass for neck gazing.
I‘d say if the Bird actually tilts away from you, that might be a matter of strap length (too low, in my experience) and posture (try to tilt up your pelvis). But that’s just to expand on your post, with which I agree: You won’t spend much time looking at any front dots with the Bird unless you hunch over severely.
 
Had an NG-2 (4) for a couple of years alongside my Custom D-Bird: The bird wants to be slung at least a little lower and, unless you have a reach reducing pin installed in your NG, the bird will hang a bit further to your right. Somewhat contrary to their classic looks, the Rocs/Birds are very ergonomic basses.
Upper fret access, of course, is far better on the NG, if that’s important to you. (I‘m changing between my Bird and Roc based on mood and find both offer plenty of access to reach up to at least the 15th fret on the E-string and the 17th fret on the D-string when tuning BEAD.)


I‘d say if the Bird actually tilts away from you, that might be a matter of strap length (too low, in my experience) and posture (try to tilt up your pelvis). But that’s just to expand on your post, with which I agree: You won’t spend much time looking at any front dots with the Bird unless you hunch over severely.

On all my Thunderbirds, I bring the bottom of the strap up over the front of the bottom (bass side) of the bout, fixes the tilting. I personally don't wear them any lower, but many do.
 
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I definitely can't use my GruvGear Neo 4.0 with the D-Bird. The way the fat part of the strap twists makes it cut into my gut and pushes the neck forward. I ordered a straplock set to put on a Couch strap I've had collecting dust for a while.
 
I definitely can't use my GruvGear Neo 4.0 with the D-Bird. The way the fat part of the strap twists makes it cut into my gut and pushes the neck forward. I ordered a straplock set to put on a Couch strap I've had collecting dust for a while.

Twists? You do know that for the D-Bird/D-Roc you need to install the Straplok backwards, right?
 
I use an Italia strap that has a blue suede underside and smooth black leather top.

Strap locks are oriented for the black side, and that works for the black Super P.

For the blue purple color shift Dbird, I just flip the strap over. The blue suede looks great.

Always a sale on Italia straps, and I can usually find them in the TB classifieds. Lots of colors and leather combinations and widths.

Maybe I should look for some blue suede boots.
 
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Yes and my current strap has the straplok installed normally which is why it twists, hence the new set of straploks incoming to use on a strap just for the Bird.

Cool. I have to have a strap for each instrument, due to differences in body shapes and strap button positioning. Not to mention matching style and colors. :)
 
Cool. I have to have a strap for each instrument, due to differences in body shapes and strap button positioning. Not to mention matching style and colors. :)
My basses have all been standard shapes and button positions up til the Bird, so I've always just kept one black strap (GruvGear SoloStrap Neo) that I set so my basses hang in the same location as when I'm sitting, but I think the Bird is asking to go a little lower.

My Bird has a few big chips in the finish. I'm curious how it would look stripped down and with a natural satin finish over the mahogany or whatever it is; but part of me wants to go full on glam rock with something sparkly. If I go for a total refinish, though, the headstock edges that are subtly burst finished to match the body would need refinishing, too.
 
I'm probably in a minority, especially as a prog metal bassist, but I don't like mine really hanging all that low anymore. It ends up being too much of a compromise from a more ideal playing position. I think if I played a bit less technical stuff, more root/small fill kinda music it could be playable, but the ergos of that still seem not that great.
 
I'm probably in a minority, especially as a prog metal bassist, but I don't like mine really hanging all that low anymore. It ends up being too much of a compromise from a more ideal playing position. I think if I played a bit less technical stuff, more root/small fill kinda music it could be playable, but the ergos of that still seem not that great.
As a teenager, I slung it Rob Trujillo style until I started actually learning how to play the instrument; then I went 180º and started wearing it right up under my chin. Only after playing a couple years did I figure out that keeping the bass in the same spot sitting and standing was best for me.
 
As a teenager, I slung it Rob Trujillo style until I started actually learning how to play the instrument; then I went 180º and started wearing it right up under my chin. Only after playing a couple years did I figure out that keeping the bass in the same spot sitting and standing was best for me.

I tend to strap by basses lower when standing then playing seated. The only problem with that comes with playing slap, I prefer it to be strapped higher. I only slap on a couple of tunes, so when I have a sub in front of me, I'll prop up a leg and play it higher, even though it looks a little silly when I do it.
 
The headstock design on the Drocs was simplified from the Dbird.

The painted edge detail was hard to pull off cleanly.

I like the blue purple color shift on mine, but it’s a fragile finish. If I had the paint color number I would do the few spots that need touch up and see about shooting it with a 2k clear loaded with a metallic flake. It could use a tougher finish. I peeled the vinyl sticker pickguard off, and didn’t see any shadow or residue.

I think the color would pop under a gloss clear, and sparkle makes everything better.

Id try a local body shop after reading the story of the Dbird that went missing for months on the way home from the paint shop. A body shop will probably be shooting clear everyday.
 
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Does anyone have experience with gr bass cabs and dingwalls? I see John Fox bass had some videos with them.

They sure seem like back savers!

Good combination. I only play Dingwalls and recently checked out a AT 112H+. The one I had weighed 18 lbs and sounded very good. The 12" driver was surprisingly bright. I ran the tweeter at minimum and got a good, balanced sound out of it with my WD-800 - another good combination. If I were still playing out, I would be playing GR Bass cabs. I don't think he is a Dingwall player, but the guy I sold it to this week loves it. :cool: I purchased the cab because my 'reference cab' was malfunctioning and I was curious about GR. I was able to repair my cab and sold the GR to someone who is still gigging...
 
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