fEARful™ Part Eleven (11)

[dhomer]

+1
One question about woods: Eurolite seems to be a good premium lightweight plywood for a 12mm build. The only downside is that being softer than birch or Arauco, you need a polyurea coating instead of Duratex if you don't want Tolex or rat fur. It's my understanding that polyurea is a professionally applied coating unlike Duratex which is easy for a DIY build.

If you don't mind spending $100 or so, and search for a dealer, there is a Duratex alternative.. Al's Liner. DIY Truck Bed Liners!.

 

[5StringPocket]

Thanks for the link, it's nice to have options. I like the textured roller finish. It's easy to apply and you don't need to be concerned with overspray. Truck bed liner should be pretty tough.

 

[jumbodbassman]

I am new to this build/site but very interested in building a headbox so the mid/horn will be mobile per say. anyone do it yet? how was the crossover hooked up. full to woofer or thru the headbox first into the woofer.

 

[Supertanker]

I am new to this build/site but very interested in building a headbox so the mid/horn will be mobile per say. anyone do it yet? how was the crossover hooked up. full to woofer or thru the headbox first into the woofer.

That's been done several times with excellent results.

Check the fEarful wiki or the fEarful website...

 

[Passinwind]

thru the headbox first into the woofer.

Yes.

You can see pics of my three different style top boxes on the [Invalid or Expired Link Removed].

 

[JdoubleH]

I am new to this build/site but very interested in building a headbox so the mid/horn will be mobile per say. anyone do it yet? how was the crossover hooked up. full to woofer or thru the headbox first into the woofer.

That's been done several times with excellent results.

Check the fEarful wiki or the fEarful website...

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[BurningSkies]

The headcase doesn't have a formalized set of plans like the other fEARfuls. You'll find examples and more details in past fEARful threads but you won't find a blueprint. If you're new at DIY for cabs, its generally discouraged to start with the headcase.

 

[Substandard]

So I just finished putting together the boards of my 15/6. does anyone have a good resource for me to find some dark red tolex? Or even better some sort of leatherette.

 

[mntngrown]

So I ordered the parts from "speaker hardware" for the 1515/66 and am about to hook up the speakers.
Given I know nothing about this stuff, I was wondering what the worst case would be if I butchered the job?
I figure I just won't get signal to the mids or maybe full signal just like the fifteens?
I figure I will turn the amp up rreeaallyy slowly
Given this post affords y'all ample opportunity for humor, a few serious replies would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[KingRazor]

I want to build a fEARful...

I know almost nothing about cross-overs, drivers, or any of that fancy speaker terminology and have never even attempted to construct my own cab...

What are some of the basics? Where can I learn? What do I need to buy?

I think this would be a really fun project and if I can do it right I'll have an amazing cab.

 

[BurningSkies]

I want to build a fEARful...

I know almost nothing about cross-overs, drivers, or any of that fancy speaker terminology and have never even attempted to construct my own cab...

What are some of the basics? Where can I learn? What do I need to buy?

I think this would be a really fun project and if I can do it right I'll have an amazing cab.

Hey KR, I have two fEARfuls and didn't start out with much specific knowledge either. the Wiki and the plans should give you a good start. If you're making your own box, you'll certainly need something by way of woodworking. If you're getting kits, then clamps, and glue may do it.

If you go to the TB Wiki and do a search on my name, you'll see some build details for my 15/6 and 15/sub. I'll be filling those out more, but you should get the idea of what I used, needed and did. If you have any questions, ask.

 

[bwoodman]

I want to build a fEARful...

I know almost nothing about cross-overs, drivers, or any of that fancy speaker terminology and have never even attempted to construct my own cab...

What are some of the basics? Where can I learn? What do I need to buy?

I think this would be a really fun project and if I can do it right I'll have an amazing cab.

Speakerhardware.com

Flat packs, pre-wired x-overs, speakers - it's all there. I got my x-overs there and built my own box for the 15/6/1...

 

[Foz]

Given this post affords y'all ample opportunity for humor, a few serious replies would be appreciated. Thanks!

Post pics of what you got here...

[Invalid or Expired Link Removed]

 

[lbwdog]

I want to build a fEARful...

I know almost nothing about cross-overs, drivers, or any of that fancy speaker terminology and have never even attempted to construct my own cab...

What are some of the basics? Where can I learn? What do I need to buy?

I think this would be a really fun project and if I can do it right I'll have an amazing cab.

Like BurningSkies said, just jump in and have fun. I suggest you read, read, read, through all the fearful threads. you'll pick up a lot of knowledge and design theory. Once you read through 'em a couple of times, you'll learn which posts to pay heed to, and which to dismiss. (pay attention to greenboy, Passinwind, and DukeLeJune. they know their stuff!)

 

[singlemalt]

Can you follow a plan? Push hot links and use your credit card to order stuff?

No need to master the mysteries, it's more like following a recipe.

Use wikipedia to gather some impressive new jargon to impress your friends if needed, but just follow the plans to a great sounding cab.

The 12/6 cube I just finished came in under $300 in materials, (labor not included, all assembly required). It's a fun project.

 

[edwinhurwitz]

OK, my flatpack 12/6 cube kit from Leland is all assembled, the first coat of duratex is on and drying and I am working on the crossover.

So, the kit came with wood screws for the woofer. Is there any reason to use wood screws over T-nuts and bolts? That's what I've typically used for woofer installation and it's always worked fine. Of course, with a fEARful, there is the issue of the top t-nut needing to go where the mid box is, but that could be a wood screw or I could turn the driver to offset the holes. I can't wait to fire this sucker up! Very easy build and Leland has been incredibly helpful.

 

[BurningSkies]

OK, my flatpack 12/6 cube kit from Leland is all assembled, the first coat of duratex is on and drying and I am working on the crossover.

So, the kit came with wood screws for the woofer. Is there any reason to use wood screws over T-nuts and bolts? That's what I've typically used for woofer installation and it's always worked fine. Of course, with a fEARful, there is the issue of the top t-nut needing to go where the mid box is, but that could be a wood screw or I could turn the driver to offset the holes. I can't wait to fire this sucker up! Very easy build and Leland has been incredibly helpful.

If the baffle is pre-drilled, then do be careful that the speaker gasket seals/covers the old holes if you decide to rotate (that's what I did). When using t-nuts, you'll find that all the spines may not hit wood, but as long as you have two of the 3 or 3 of 4 prongs in, you should be good. Do make sure that the nuts are well seated so you don't get tear outs. That can ruin your day.

 

[rpsands]

The recex screws Leland supplies are awesome. Screw t-nuts--seriously.

 

[edwinhurwitz]

OK, I'll try the recex screws first. It's all an experiment anyway!

 

[dug dog]

If you DO decide to go with the T nuts, it's a good idea to put some epoxy on the flat surface that's in contact with the back of the baffle. Several people have spun them out and sworn they'd never use them again.