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fEARful™ Part Eleven (11)

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#681
Been busy lately so no fun for me.......However my 3012lf is due tomorrow for my 12/sub. Soldered the x-over tonight and will install the batting tomorrow. I can not wait to fire up my 12/6-12/sub combo!!!!! I don't have the power to do it justice yet but It should sound great anyway. I'll be playing a outdoor gig or two in July so that will give me time to get more power in an amp. I went from my pre/power set-up to a GK and kind of like the fEARful-GK combo. Now I just need a bigger GK.
 
#682
mntngrown said:
So I ordered the parts from "speaker hardware" for the 1515/66 and am about to hook up the speakers.
Given I know nothing about this stuff, I was wondering what the worst case would be if I butchered the job?
I figure I just won't get signal to the mids or maybe full signal just like the fifteens?
I figure I will turn the amp up rreeaallyy slowly:hiding:
Given this post affords y'all ample opportunity for humor, a few serious replies would be appreciated. Thanks!
Click to expand...

Mntngrown, didn't see a response to your particular question, so I'll take a stab at it...

Absolute worst case, your crossover will have a short in it, and it will appear to the amp that you've simply connected + with - and you'll see smoke from your amp.

Having said that, the above scenario is not very realistic and there are very simple step you can do to pre-check your crossover. Just measure the resistance across the input terminals to your crossover when connected to speakers but not to your amp. You should be able to read SOME resistance, on the order of 4-8 Ohms. If the resistance is less than 1 Ohm, something is wrong, and you must NOT connect to your amp.

Overall, the crossover is relatively straightforward, so if you do a final check comparing the diagram with your crossover, you should be fine. Just look for "shorts", and make sure your wire ends have NO chance of touching each other, considering that they will be subject to alot of vibration!

Dekker
 
#683
cableguy said:
Been busy lately so no fun for me.......However my 3012lf is due tomorrow for my 12/sub. Soldered the x-over tonight and will install the batting tomorrow. I can not wait to fire up my 12/6-12/sub combo!!!!! I don't have the power to do it justice yet but It should sound great anyway. I'll be playing a outdoor gig or two in July so that will give me time to get more power in an amp. I went from my pre/power set-up to a GK and kind of like the fEARful-GK combo. Now I just need a bigger GK.
Click to expand...

RMC Audio has 30 off on a Crown Drivecore @ 375 a channel into 8 ohms. Only on in stock and only through Memorial day ... which get's it down to like $350... given that a used 2402 is still $400 give or take. That Crown seems like a good deal.
 
#684
mntngrown said:
So I ordered the parts from "speaker hardware" for the 1515/66 and am about to hook up the speakers.
Given I know nothing about this stuff, I was wondering what the worst case would be if I butchered the job?
I figure I just won't get signal to the mids or maybe full signal just like the fifteens?
I figure I will turn the amp up rreeaallyy slowly:hiding:
Given this post affords y'all ample opportunity for humor, a few serious replies would be appreciated. Thanks!
Click to expand...

It would be really a good idea to use a meter/continuity checker on the cab first ... Use a 1 ended cable (connector on 1 end, bare wires on the other if it's a Speakon. 1/4" or banana at the amp end will do as well. If the resistance pegs, you have a dead short and should not power the cab up until that is corrected.

It isn't likely but it is expensive to fix if it happens and anyone can mess up ...
 
#685
Thanks Dekker and 4Mal , that gives me a good approach.
I remember testing an old Mesa cab to determine it's ohm rating, by using the meter on the amp end of a 1/4" cable.
3.7 or so confirmed it was 4 ohms.
Anything wildly different on this dual 15" will tell me I did something wrong.:)
 
#686
mntngrwn, test everything on the bench. Rig up your speaker to your crossover, then hook up an iPod or something to the inputs. Here's my test setup when I built my BFM cab:

IMG_0427.jpg


(a friend asked if I had built a device to get music from ice cubes... the red thing is a piezo array.)

So the crossover is connected to both the high and low end, and then I have the inputs connected to an audio player, either my computer or an iPod. Radio Shack sells a cable that has a 1/8" headphone plug on one end and two spades on the other end, or you can just cut up an old pair of headphones if you like (I never keep crappy headphones around ;-).
 
#687
ian_s said:
mntngrwn, test everything on the bench. Rig up your speaker to your crossover, then hook up an iPod or something to the inputs. Here's my test setup when I built my BFM cab:

IMG_0427.jpg


(a friend asked if I had built a device to get music from ice cubes... the red thing is a piezo array.)

So the crossover is connected to both the high and low end, and then I have the inputs connected to an audio player, either my computer or an iPod. Radio Shack sells a cable that has a 1/8" headphone plug on one end and two spades on the other end, or you can just cut up an old pair of headphones if you like (I never keep crappy headphones around ;-).
Click to expand...

What brand of water makes the best ice for metal?

:hiding:
 
#692
Should sound every bit as good. Tonight, I'm gonna find out if my 12/6/1 and lots of watts will be enough for the loudish band I sometimes hang with. I'm hoping so as the smaller cab is so much nicer to carry and pack. However, that would mean my 15/6 will probably not see much action.
 
#693
KingRazor said:
The smaller form factor (and therefore, I would assume, lighter weight) of the 12/6 would be desireable if it sounds just as good.
Click to expand...

Unless you want volume. Then the 15/6 is well worth it. If you're only wanting a single cab experience and you think you might want to start getting loud, then the 15/6 is well worth a look.

This may help you figure out what would work best for you:

fEARfulxmaxSPL.png
 
#699
so, I really want to do this as cheaply as possible. Now, I'm not going to skimp on the quality of the parts, at least not the most important ones, but I'm a college student and I make less than $10 per hour. So, I anything I can do to save money on this is good.

That's one of the reasons I want to build most of it myself (besides the satisfaction of playing through something I put together with my own hands and the experience I'll gain from doing it).

So, what do you guys recommend? A kit of some sort?
 
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