fEARful™ Part Ten (10)

[MX21]

Thanks Burningskies, that's what I though. Since I already have the parts for the 12/sub I might as well start. Damn you MX21 for such a killer looking cab just constantaly tempting me..... Just kidding on that MX you've helped me a lot in my fEarful quest.

 

[Lukejt]

I've got the 18 Sound, was messing around with overdrive, hit some mega feedback yesterday, I think I'm deaf in my left ear now. I've also turned down the treble (used to have it cranked on my Ashdown 115D).

 

[greenboy]

I'm curious about how to become one of your "authorized builders" in the Western Region. I'm in So Cal. Please PM when you get a chance so we can exchange emails and discuss....

For the benefit for all, my current feelings about listing authorizing builders are summarized in this post: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/fearful-part-ten-10-a-747868/index2.html#post10552221:

"Hey dhomer, I emailed you, but I'll repeat part of that for others. Things are different than they were one or two years ago.

I don't know that I want to authorize anyone unless they have a website and a business presence in the field. That goes a long way in assuring any customers that a builder is fEARful™ approved not only because the builder will faithfully represent the points I prioritize in design - but also because the builder has a track record delivering good enclosures and has a responsible service record.

I want to minimize problems for both myself, and for people who want fEARfuls. I already know what the alternative is. Feel free to email back if you wish further dialog. We can examine this to your satisfaction, because it's possible you already have some business web presence I am not aware of."

EDIT: thanks for the emails and examples, guys. I'll get back to you soon!

 

[greenboy]

Apropo of nothing, here's a link to my friend's website. It's an unsurpassed collection of live recordings from the golden era of fusion music. Hope my fellow fEarful enthusiasts might enjoy, and perhaps even GB, where ever he may be...

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Great to have another link to neglect ; } - thanks, man! A lot of greats there.

Yah, I'm into what fusion used to mean, in all its varieties. Though I run from some of what it became - the stuff that veers toward fuzak and quiet storm vocaleze especially uninterests me. I kinda work from a fusion ethic in that I don't draw hard lines between styles and genres, though I realize that to some fusion implies trotting out a lot of technique rather than just being free to more open influences. To me of Now, fusion continues to grow; when I hear Bill Frisell racking the distortion with a turntablist and a tuba player who are doing New Afrique, how could it be otherwise?

 

[greenboy]

My question to the assembled wisdom here is this: I'm sure that occasionally I'll want to stack the 15/6 tube and the 12/6. I prefer the narrower taller footprint of the 12/6 compared to the 12/6 cube, and the 12/6 sideways matches the 15/6 tube dimensions nicely for stacking, but the mid drivers wouldn't be next to each other.

If you have the baffles complimentary, the 12/6 with its 24" dimension running horizontally fits the 15/6tube when its 24" dimension is on the horizontal, with both mid drivers 4" (or was it 4.5") from the same side. Amazed nobody offered up this info after all those posts.

 

[WCunha]

Better for WHAT? I went from a true PA-oriented crossover in my fEARful set-up because the highpass suits what I do better. If I was only a "clean tones" player and one who didn't value the upper cone response, things might be different. But for 90% of what I like I don't need ANY high frequency section ANYWAY.

And I already have PA stuff that's eminently suited for that use.

I don't have PA stuff and I thought if it was possible to make it better for combined PA and bass duty I would consider it.

As it stands I think they sound pretty damn good. I use them for my bass rig and vocals during rehearsal. I use an Alesis Studio 24 mixer to mix the vocals and bass.

 

[cableguy]

Sometimes it's that a lot of heads and preamps are voiced bright to deal with typical cabs. Whatever the case, it's wise to reconsider the way you think hear and use gear, because there are a lot more tones in the box than most players seem to be used to accessing with typical bass cabs. EQ and hand positioning techniques are so big with these designs. Also, I have really old compressed-wounds on one bass, which lets me play with the perception of flatwounds - but flats that actually sound killer when distortion gets engaged, which to me is usually not the case.

I wasn't trying to say it was too bright. My old cab was a 15' & tweet with the tweet turned off because it sounded like ass. I run a RBI pre mostly flat now with the treble dailed back a little less than flat. Before I had to boost the mids and treble. I seriously can't wait to add the 12/sub just to get a liitle more kick in the low end. It kicks pretty good now, but I want it go to 11.

 

[cableguy]

I've got the 18 Sound, was messing around with overdrive, hit some mega feedback yesterday, I think I'm deaf in my left ear now. I've also turned down the treble (used to have it cranked on my Ashdown 115D).

+1

I did the same thing two nights ago. One of my presets was pretty hot and I was facing my cab. Won't do that again. And you have to talk to my right ear until the ringing stops in my left.

 

[greenboy]

Have you seen accurate bridging specs? While the 1600 & 3000 have been out for a while, Peavey doesn't seem to have any legit figures up anywhere

Well, BurningSkies,

You got the IPR bridged figures from me in email, but I've been considering lately using the Carvin BX1500 as a 10-pound power amp that just happens to have a really full-featured preamp in the same package. If it's anything like the BX1200 it's got the patching to do this easily. Right now it's going for $600.

900w at 8 ohm bridged
1500w at 4 ohms bridged

 

[greenboy]

I don't have PA stuff and I thought if it was possible to make it better for combined PA and bass duty I would consider it.

The major difference is that a properly designed PA crossover will extend the upper mids dispersion while also losing the mid cones's upper peakiness. At some point I might revisit the design of such a MF-HF crossover section. For now the Peavey ECS-3X would be a decent alternative.

 

[WCunha]

The major difference is that a properly designed PA crossover will extend the upper mids dispersion while also losing the mid cones's upper peakiness. At some point I might revisit the design of such a MF-HF crossover section. For now the Peavey ECS-3X would be a decent alternative.

I'm thinking I will leave it alone and that the Peavey crossover components are not as good as the components that you spec'd GB.

 

[Sundogue]

Just doing what little I can to pass the time until the rest of my stuff comes...

I bolted my folding handcart to a 3/4" plywood baseplate (that is the footprint of the 15/6 to better balance and hold the cab without straps) so I have a combo dolly/handcart so I can roll the cab and latched amphead upright or tilt it back to go over rough parking lots, curbs, etc.

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The dolly/cart tilts back so it can roll on the back two wheels of the dolly and also the hand cart wheels at the same time (or just the cart wheels only). Without the amphead, the cab balances on those wheels perfectly. The head makes it too top-heavy. I can push it around with a finger!

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The cart/dolly also doubles as a tiltback cab stand. The amphead latches to the cab. Now if I can just get my speakers and crossover loaded!

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[Lukejt]

+1

I did the same thing two nights ago. One of my presets was pretty hot and I was facing my cab. Won't do that again. And you have to talk to my right ear until the ringing stops in my left.

I haven't seen the cat in two days. Lol. Glad I'm not the only one.

 

[Queg]

I currently have a 15/6 tube with 18sound mid and I plan on building a 12/6..

If I choose an alpha mid, when using both cabs as a stack, will the different mids play well together?

Or would it be better to have an option to switch off the alpha on the 12/6 and add a switch to bypass the resistors on the 18sound in the 15/6 to run it as the only mid?

Or should I just suck it up and get an 18sound for the 12/6 build?

 

[dhomer]

Hey bwoodman, I emailed you. But for the benefit for all, my current feelings about listing authorizing builders are summarized in this post: http://www.talkbass.com/forum/f15/fearful-part-ten-10-a-747868/index2.html#post10552221:

"Hey dhomer, I emailed you, but I'll repeat part of that for others. Things are different than they were one or two years ago.

I don't know that I want to authorize anyone unless they have a website and a business presence in the field. That goes a long way in assuring any customers that a builder is fEARful™ approved not only because the builder will faithfully represent the points I prioritize in design - but also because the builder has a track record delivering good enclosures and has a responsible service record.

I want to minimize problems for both myself, and for people who want fEARfuls. I already know what the alternative is. Feel free to email back if you wish further dialog. We can examine this to your satisfaction, because it's possible you already have some business web presence I am not aware of."

I guess I have to assume dhomer isn't interested in showing some work examples or the start of a website because no repy here or in email...

Greenboy, I'm still interested, but I will reply privately.. A lot of things going on right now, and none of it involving getting a shop ready to go..

 

[::::BASSIST::::]

I currently have a 15/6 tube with 18sound mid and I plan on building a 12/6..

If I choose an alpha mid, when using both cabs as a stack, will the different mids play well together?

Or would it be better to have an option to switch off the alpha on the 12/6 and add a switch to bypass the resistors on the 18sound in the 15/6 to run it as the only mid?

Or should I just suck it up and get an 18sound for the 12/6 build?

I'm no expert but I bet most say suck it up and get an 18sound for the 12/6 build.

Might as well do the best job possible.

 

[WCunha]

Just doing what little I can to pass the time until the rest of my stuff comes...

I bolted my folding handcart to a 3/4" plywood baseplate (that is the footprint of the 15/6 to better balance and hold the cab without straps) so I have a combo dolly/handcart so I can roll the cab and latched amphead upright or tilt it back to go over rough parking lots, curbs, etc.

Invalid Link Removed

The dolly/cart tilts back so it can roll on the back two wheels of the dolly and also the hand cart wheels at the same time (or just the cart wheels only). Without the amphead, the cab balances on those wheels perfectly. The head makes it too top-heavy. I can push it around with a finger!

Invalid Link Removed

The cart/dolly also doubles as a tiltback cab stand. The amphead latches to the cab. Now if I can just get my speakers and crossover loaded!

Invalid Link Removed

Great job!

 

[bassjam]

This may have been discussed already so I may have missed it.

What are you guys powering your 15/6 cabs with?? I have a Mesa Carbine M9 which is rated 450 watts at 8ohms.Anyone else using the M9.Im just wondering if 450 watts is enough to really drive one of these.Im reading these cabs love more power.

 

[dug dog]

A 15/6 will be LOUD with 450 watts. Mine is very loud with a Yorkville YB400 putting 300 watts into 8 ohms. (That didn't stop me from buying a Carvin BX1500 that will punch 900 watts into 8 ohms.)
These cabs don't NEED lots of power to be loud, but they can TAKE lots of power as long as you pay attention.

 

[Sigurd]

Markbass SD1200; 750W into 8 ohms.