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Fearful Part 14: one better than 13!

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#321
butcher said:
Hey Mike - been in touch with the folks at Owl Hardwoods. They are very cool and actually the cost for them to cut to spec is really reasonable. I think it is worth my time and one less chance to lose a thumb ;)

Also, the cost for a 5x5 sheet of real baltic birch really isn't much more than using a bunch of 2x2 project panels or a big wavy 4x8 sheet of the fake stuff at the big boxes.

Thanks again for the referral!
Click to expand...

I built my personal 1212/6 from a sheet of the Menards' BB.. It's acceptable
 
#322
thiessen3.14 said:
While I have searched and perused the estimated 679 pages of Fearful, I have not found my answer so I will pose a question: Has anyone built a Fearful with the port opening on the back? I'd like to build a vintage-style looking cabinet. Any concerns other than maybe making the port a little taller to compensate for slightly less depth of the port?
Click to expand...
fEARful cabs are only built to fEARful plans. If you choose to build it differently, you take the risk that your cab may be inferior. If you want more of a vintage look, maybe just use that sparkly 'ampeg' style grill cloth?
 
#323
thiessen3.14 said:
While I have searched and perused the estimated 679 pages of Fearful, I have not found my answer so I will pose a question: Has anyone built a Fearful with the port opening on the back? I'd like to build a vintage-style looking cabinet. Any concerns other than maybe making the port a little taller to compensate for slightly less depth of the port?
Click to expand...

Hi thiessen3.14,

Depending on the model I can help you with this, but I'd prefer to do it over on the fEARful forum.
 
#326
It's been a while since I posted shots of my 12/6, so here's some new-ish ones:

Shown with cigar box guitar and bass:
100_1229.jpg


And a family portrait:
100_1444.jpg
 
#327
Hey guys,

I'm considering the Art of Noise 1212/6/1 here on the TB classifieds. I'm playing my Mesa M9 (new to me) through the Avatar 153 now. Any reason to talk me out of this 1212? I know AoN is not an authorized Ff dealer anymore. Thoughts, can o worms? Please just pm me if this is not appropriate for public consumption. Thanks.
 
#332
If you were considering building one yourself I would say go 15/6, as the price is less and the SPL is close (if form factor and other things were not as important as price). Finding a cab like that used doesnt come around often. Snap it up!

husky123 said:
Hey guys,

I'm considering the Art of Noise 1212/6/1 here on the TB classifieds. I'm playing my Mesa M9 (new to me) through the Avatar 153 now. Any reason to talk me out of this 1212? I know AoN is not an authorized Ff dealer anymore. Thoughts, can o worms? Please just pm me if this is not appropriate for public consumption. Thanks.
Click to expand...
 
#333
dhomer said:
I built my personal 1212/6 from a sheet of the Menards' BB.. It's acceptable
Click to expand...

Hmm... I haven't ordered the 5x5 yet, and have been cherry picking some handi panels from various local Menards over the last few weeks.

If this warm weather keeps up, I may just have to start making my own dust this weekend!

Contemplating using either dowel joinery on the 1/2" to combat the thin outer veneer or 1/4" dados/rabbets in 3/4" - which I would have to make lots of adjustments to maintain the same interior volume, dimensions and port specs. That would be a pain, but have been wanting to get better at that type of joinery.

Argh.
 
#334
Coolhandjjl said:
My construction of a pair of 15/6's is now officially slated to begin!

I ended up having to order my BB from a lumber yard. A 5x5 is $35. I ordered three sheets, that way I have extra for future builds. :D
Click to expand...

Not a bad price- the Lowes Arauco I'm using (and fighting with and swearing at) is only $3 cheaper in 4x8. I chose it mainly for weight savings. I think if i had gone proper BB I'd have it built by now. I just discovered a big void in the back panel, so I'll have to re-cut that tonight.

My mid and xover are the last parts I need, and are out for delivery today. I SO wish I had the cab together. Other than being a perfectionist with middling to marginal talent, being saddled with [soon-to-be-ex] wife drama, having the universe's most poorly laid out and most disorganized shop, and being bereft of sufficient free time, I'm pretty much out if excuses now. :) Time to don the big boy pants and git 'er dun, I reckon.
 
#337
Just checked the weekend weather - nice! Going to pick up MY big-boy-pants from the cleaners and make some dust with the Menards "birch" - seems to have the requisite number of plys, just don't know of what.

Going to go with the dowel joinery for added strength considering the thin outer veneer - hope to grab some pics of that process for anyone interested.

Also, really want to give some giant kudos to those that contributed to the Google SketchUp renderings, flat plans and cut lists! I know that was time-consuming, tedious work and they are invaluable resources for the build.
 
#338
butcher said:
Hmm... I haven't ordered the 5x5 yet, and have been cherry picking some handi panels from various local Menards over the last few weeks.

If this warm weather keeps up, I may just have to start making my own dust this weekend!

Contemplating using either dowel joinery on the 1/2" to combat the thin outer veneer or 1/4" dados/rabbets in 3/4" - which I would have to make lots of adjustments to maintain the same interior volume, dimensions and port specs. That would be a pain, but have been wanting to get better at that type of joinery.

Argh.
Click to expand...

About the only reasons you'd need rabets / dados / dowels / biscuits would be to aid assembly. With PL, you won't be adding much mechanically, other than complexity.

If you read though all of these threads, i don't think you'll find any complaints of 1/2" BB and PL being weak or insufficient.
 
#339
JdoubleH said:
About the only reasons you'd need rabets / dados / dowels / biscuits would be too aid assembly. With PL, you won't be adding much mechanically, other than complexity.

If you read though all of these threads, i don't think you'll find any complaints of 1/2" BB and PL being weak or insufficient.
Click to expand...

True, but there is some doubt as to the quality of the 1/2" "Baltic Birch" that is sold at stores like Menards - may be close but not the real deal. The outer ply veneer is extremely thin and therefore might not have much holding strength to the inner layers... the outer veneer would be the only layer that the PL is adhering to. If I did the other joinery, I would get past that layer and get some adhesion to the inner layers as well.

The one benefit to the not-quite-baltic with that paper thin veneer is that the outer layer is quite "pretty." I'm planning to just do a couple layers of poly. Will match my new Warmoth Deluxe Jazz V which is natural with all black hardware. I've read where the real baltic birch can have some of those football plugs here and there - but is good quality otherwise. No problem if you are going to coat with duratex or similar.

Thank you for the heads-up though on the quality of the PL and real baltic birch though! I have been pouring through these threads as well as the plywood discussion board on greenboy's forum. Such a wealth of useful knowledge and support! Much appreciated.
 
#340
butcher said:
True, but there is some doubt as to the quality of the 1/2" "Baltic Birch" that is sold at stores like Menards - may be close but not the real deal. The outer ply veneer is extremely thin and therefore might not have much holding strength to the inner layers... the outer veneer would be the only layer that the PL is adhering to. If I did the other joinery, I would get past that layer and get some adhesion to the inner layers as well.

The one benefit to the not-quite-baltic with that paper thin veneer is that the outer layer is quite "pretty." I'm planning to just do a couple layers of poly. Will match my new Warmoth Deluxe Jazz V which is natural with all black hardware. I've read where the real baltic birch can have some of those football plugs here and there - but is good quality otherwise. No problem if you are going to coat with duratex or similar.

Thank you for the heads-up though on the quality of the PL and real baltic birch though! I have been pouring through these threads as well as the plywood discussion board on greenboy's forum. Such a wealth of useful knowledge and support! Much appreciated.
Click to expand...

For what it is worth i built a PA sub (2x3015lf, 9 cu ft) using the 'suspect' thin outer ply BB and PL. Been using it for over a year with no problems. It has spline bracing throughout also held in with PL onto the outer ply.

An alternative to dadoes/rabbets/biscuits/etc. is to simply drill small holes along the bonding joint to let the pl get to the inner plies.

Robby
 
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