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Fender experts please help

knigel

knigel

Apr 20, 2009
2,101
929
Massamachusetts
www.happylittleclouds.com
Disclosures
I'm the Squier of Fenderbirds
#1
Someone has offered me a 76 fretless P bass in a trade, and I'm not sure if it is legit. I could search the archives, but I'm not sure if I could pick up on the subtle nuances of Fenderdom, so I am asking for your help.

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I don't trust my own eye with Fender gear--it seems like it is easy to fake, especially to a novice.

Thanks in advance for your help.

Sorry, pictures aren't showing up. "Grampa's got a hold of the internet!"

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#9
The fingerboard looks very dark--like it has been treated with something. The body is Ash, and the wear on the upper contour looks unusually smooth. I'm used to a rougher edged/chipped look--like the edges of the wear on the buckle rash on the back. Does anyone see a Fullerton hump? The hardware superficially looks OK. The oxidation on the tuners fits with disuse from a missing jack.

All of this just means we need more and better images.
 
#13
idk id say your 96 MIA JBD V is the better bass...just because its older dosent mean its better. thats certainly like trading an apple for an orange. plus that input just bothers me.. i mean if the guy cant even throw together a decent presentation to sell it, it makes me wonder how mistreated it has been overall
 
#15
your idol said:
idk id say your 96 MIA JBD V is the better bass...just because its older dosent mean its better. thats certainly like trading an apple for an orange. plus that input just bothers me.. i mean if the guy cant even throw together a decent presentation to sell it, it makes me wonder how mistreated it has been overall
Click to expand...

No, I was looking for an unlined fretless. I don't play the 5er too much, but I've had it since 1997, so I 1/2 want to keep it for sentimental reasons.

The input jack bothers me too.

Who wants the 96 for a grand? I pre-reliced for yah... (kidding, kidding)
 
#16
it looks like the real deal to me. the problem is, it probably weighs a ton, as they used really heavy ash in the mid seventies. you also have to make sure that the neck is straight as there is no room for bowing on a fretless and on that year, the curved rosewood fingerboard is pretty thin.

2 cents...........
 
#17
knigel said:
No, I was looking for an unlined fretless. I don't play the 5er too much, but I've had it since 1997, so I 1/2 want to keep it for sentimental reasons.

The input jack bothers me too.

Who wants the 96 for a grand? I pre-reliced for yah... (kidding, kidding)
Click to expand...

if you want a fretless i say go for it but im sure if you checked the TB classys and tossed out a couple offers im sure you can find a nice old fretless p bass in better condition from someone with a fair amount of accountability. i just dont wanna see you trade in a good functional Jazz for a P that may burn you to at least take considerable reworking. either way i hope you end up with what you want/need :bassist:
 
#18
It's an OUTPUT jack, because the signal goes OUT of the bass to get to the amp. Improtant because language impacts thoughts. Calling it an output helps you trouble shoot...

OK, now that I've gotten over that pendantic rant... The bass looks legit. The nut's too high so the slots are really deep and that's authentic for that period of CBS's reign. The wear on the bass-side lower bout looks authentic from years of someone playing it wth long sleeve shirts. The belt-buckle rash looks right for that period too.

How much? I have no idea; I was a Fender dealer from 1977-1988 so I have no attraction to this era of Fender products. Can you play it before buying? That's the litmus test if it's possible. That'll tell you a lot about what it might be worth to you.

John
 
#19
johnk_10 said:
it looks like the real deal to me. the problem is, it probably weighs a ton, as they used really heavy ash in the mid seventies. you also have to make sure that the neck is straight as there is no room for bowing on a fretless and on that year, the curved rosewood fingerboard is pretty thin.

2 cents...........
Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice on that, I didn't know there wasn't much wiggle room on it. Weight isn't too much of an issue--I play a T40 for most of my gigs.

We'll see if it even happens. There are so many flakes out there. Plus, he told me cash is boss, so if someone makes an offer I'm out.

JTE--I'll definitely play it before I buy it--it's a local deal.
 
#20
Can't quite read the serial number - don't most usually have a letter in front (like an "S") before the numbers? I just see "76".... *shrug* I'm no expert though, so...

It looks like it's 30+ years old to me.

edit: is this the guy who wants to trade, or is this you? :smug:

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