On my R100c, I generally use it with my bass guitar into the TN Opus running into the R100c FX Return and I can control the overall volume with the Master control, doesn't that mean that my R100c has a similar amp circuitry to the R800c?
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FYI, worked exactly as you said…as long as I remember to turn on the pre-amp
Yes, it would mean that to me. In that case, I would also deduce that your R100 is one of many these days that has a Pre/Post button at the XLR Out, and a 4 ohm speaker!
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Yes.Yes, it would mean that to me. In that case, I would also deduce that your R100 is one of many these days that has a Pre/Post button at the XLR Out, and a 4 ohm speaker!
love that little close up monitor-on-stand setup!
Aw, Mable I miss your colorful amp & cab risers. 
That looks quite similar to my li'l Mackie SRM150 monitor-on-a-stand! I originally got it to try as an ultra-lightweight "bass" amp after back surgery, but it got replaced for that by a Vox VX50BA. Now the Mackie makes a very good vocal monitor/karaoke mic!
I've yet to meet one that I liked for bass. They can do OK for vocals and some instruments.
The next step is starting. I'm not sure how detailed this series will be. (Probably just as detailed, I can be OCD like that! 
) I will be doing the disassembly in detail for those who may need the instructions to disassemble things. Keep track of which screws go where, so when you reassemble it, everything will fit correctly and not damage the chassis or
It won't be a one day project like the grill cloth was, but it will be in stages. I'll try not to skip any step numbers this time!
Let's get on with it!
First, ensure the power is off and remove the IEC power cable on the back of the chassis.
This is the easy part. Most of it only requires turning a screwdriver (or drill with driver bits).
Remove the grill (duh!
). The little pull tab and pull the grill out.
Remove the speaker.
Remove the four machine screws holding the speaker. The lead is short, so be careful not to just yank the speaker out. The leads are connected with two spade connectors.
*I did get this amp used, for pretty cheap price and it's not without it's flaws. The hardware shows some corrosion, there's the gouge in the Tolex/MDF (below the speaker), and various spills embedded in the Tolex's texture.
There may be some changes.
Before I do decide to try the Eminence or not, I will be doing the calculations on the cab dimensions and the port dimensions. In the second picture above, that isn't a port tube, but just a hole in the baffle.
Next remove the chassis.
There are eight short wood screws around the backside/bottom of the chassis. Remove these first.
The remove the two machine screws on the top holding the chassis. It should be able to rest in this position.
Inside the chassis is the other end of the speaker lead. Carefully reach in and squeeze the tab in on the plug and pull plug from the jack on the board. This is the extent of any further electrical work, until you reassemble everything. Leave the speaker lead in place, as there is no need to remove it.
All the remaining hardware (handle, feet and corners) are held in place with screws.
I'll clean and polish the corners. I'll use the new hardware on the brown strap handle I got for this project. If you do decide to change handle be sure to use the appropriate screws and T-Nuts. Don't expect a wood screw to hold the amp with just wood screws.
To be continued.
) I will be doing the disassembly in detail for those who may need the instructions to disassemble things. Keep track of which screws go where, so when you reassemble it, everything will fit correctly and not damage the chassis orIt won't be a one day project like the grill cloth was, but it will be in stages. I'll try not to skip any step numbers this time!
Let's get on with it!
1. Remove The Chassis And Hardware
First, ensure the power is off and remove the IEC power cable on the back of the chassis.
This is the easy part. Most of it only requires turning a screwdriver (or drill with driver bits).
Remove the grill (duh!
). The little pull tab and pull the grill out.Remove the speaker.
Remove the four machine screws holding the speaker. The lead is short, so be careful not to just yank the speaker out. The leads are connected with two spade connectors.
*I did get this amp used, for pretty cheap price and it's not without it's flaws. The hardware shows some corrosion, there's the gouge in the Tolex/MDF (below the speaker), and various spills embedded in the Tolex's texture.
There may be some changes.
Before I do decide to try the Eminence or not, I will be doing the calculations on the cab dimensions and the port dimensions. In the second picture above, that isn't a port tube, but just a hole in the baffle.
Next remove the chassis.
There are eight short wood screws around the backside/bottom of the chassis. Remove these first.
The remove the two machine screws on the top holding the chassis. It should be able to rest in this position.
Inside the chassis is the other end of the speaker lead. Carefully reach in and squeeze the tab in on the plug and pull plug from the jack on the board. This is the extent of any further electrical work, until you reassemble everything. Leave the speaker lead in place, as there is no need to remove it.
All the remaining hardware (handle, feet and corners) are held in place with screws.
I'll clean and polish the corners. I'll use the new hardware on the brown strap handle I got for this project. If you do decide to change handle be sure to use the appropriate screws and T-Nuts. Don't expect a wood screw to hold the amp with just wood screws.
To be continued.
Looking forward to your progress!The next step is starting. I'm not sure how detailed this series will be. (Probably just as detailed, I can be OCD like that!
It won't be a one day project like the grill cloth was, but it will be in stages. I'll try not to skip any step numbers this time!
Let's get on with it!
1. Remove The Chassis And Hardware
First, ensure the power is off and remove the IEC power cable on the back of the chassis.
This is the easy part. Most of it only requires turning a screwdriver (or drill with driver bits).
Remove the grill (duh!
View attachment 7405568
Remove the speaker.
View attachment 7405569
Remove the four machine screws holding the speaker. The lead is short, so be careful not to just yank the speaker out. The leads are connected with two spade connectors.
*I did get this amp used, for pretty cheap price and it's not without it's flaws. The hardware shows some corrosion, there's the gouge in the Tolex/MDF (below the speaker), and various spills embedded in the Tolex's texture.
There may be some changes.
View attachment 7405571
Before I do decide to try the Eminence or not, I will be doing the calculations on the cab dimensions and the port dimensions. In the second picture above, that isn't a port tube, but just a hole in the baffle.
Next remove the chassis.
There are eight short wood screws around the backside/bottom of the chassis. Remove these first.
The remove the two machine screws on the top holding the chassis. It should be able to rest in this position.
View attachment 7405580
Inside the chassis is the other end of the speaker lead. Carefully reach in and squeeze the tab in on the plug and pull plug from the jack on the board. This is the extent of any further electrical work, until you reassemble everything. Leave the speaker lead in place, as there is no need to remove it.
View attachment 7405605
All the remaining hardware (handle, feet and corners) are held in place with screws.
View attachment 7405612
I'll clean and polish the corners. I'll use the new hardware on the brown strap handle I got for this project. If you do decide to change handle be sure to use the appropriate screws and T-Nuts. Don't expect a wood screw to hold the amp with just wood screws.
To be continued.
Two and a half years on, I still am *very* happy with these covers. They've held up, they still protect the amps, the hook and loop fasteners work the same, and they look great.
'Bout time, Bandy! @Bander, you are now member #1895 in the Fender Rumble Club. Congratulations and welcome. Please put that number in your TalkBass Signature for safe keeping. Then make yourself at home here and on your Rumble Club Wiki page, the repository of all Rumbling wisdom and knowledge. Do you still have your Rumble 25 and/or 40? 
The definitive answer to your highly subjective question is most emphatically YES, under certain circumstances! Does the B pickup on the 5-string give a strong signal, relative to the other strings? Are the other strings played through a Rumble 200 sufficient to play with that moderately loud band? ... in which venues? ... Big? ... Moderate? Does the Rumble have, or need, an 8 ohm extension cab? ... or is, or should it be, connected via FX Send & FX Return to another bass amp&cab or combo for reinforcement? You see, Band, such simple qwexxions (with so many unaddressed variables) don't always have simple answers. That's why your searches destroyed your research enthusiasm. 
But! Take heart! There have been a great many =1118826&o=date']testimonials here about the mighty prowess of the 'umble Rumble 100 combo!! Yep, it seems to be the Rumble secret weapon that has many, many bassists playing either one combo alone, or two chained via the FX Send of one to the FX Return, for many "moderate gigs" (band loudness and/or venue sizes). At least some, maybe even many, of these involved a low B bass, too! So, just mentally substitute the 140 watt, 1x15" Rumble 200 for the 100 watt, 1x12" Rumble 100 in those testimonials and you have your answer! 
So, Band man, how about telling us a bit about yourself, such as your bass experience in general and your Rumble journeys in particular? You'll fit right in here since we have all kinds. But we all love to ... ... ...
Rumble On!
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2. Stripping The Tolex
This is the first yucky step.
Essentially you're heat gun to heat the glue underneath the Tolex, then peel the Tolex off. If you heat it too much, the linen backing will peel off the vinyl. Too cool and the Tolex just won't peel off. When you get the feel for how hot to heat it, you also have to consider how long to heat it. If you try to peel it too soon, before the heat has penetrated the Tolex, the glue underneath wont release. If you wait too long after heating the glue will harden again and won't lift.
It's not as bad as it sounds, a couple tries and you'll get the feel of how hot and how long, then you'll go through fairly quickly.
On the R25 there is one wrap of Tolex going around the entire cabinet. The seam is on the bottom and was partially hidden under the chrome corners and rubber feet. There is also a separate piece on the flat back. This layout is the same on my R40 combo and my R210 & 115 cabs also. I wouldn't be surprised if it's the same on all the other Rumble combos and cabs. Fender did a good job of getting the seam close, without any gaps or overlap.
I highlighted the seam in yellow for clarity. It's a very tight seam.
This isn't the way it was done on the original Brown/Cream and Black cabs. On those cabs and combos, the sides were wrapped, with a small amount going over the top and bottom, then the middle is wrapped at the width of the speaker cutout and back opening.
This is that seam running parallel to the chassis strap on the Brown Princeton I built a few years ago. I didn't go quite far enough on this one, as the overlap is usually just to the other side of the chassis strap. Another 1/4" would have been perfect. More on this seam later, when I get to wrapping the cabinet.
Heat the Tolex along this seam. Once the glue underneath has warmed up, it will peel up. You may want to use a putty knife to catch the edge to start it. Before you peel too far, get the wrap that goes around the front, that goes under the grill frame. Heat it and use the putty knife to start it, as it is tucked in the corner pretty tight. It will help to work the small amount the goes around the back too.
After the edge is started and the front and back are peeled up, now start warming the side panel area, then peeling the area. It may take a couple cycles like this to get the whole side.
Continue the above, going around all four sides and do the same for the piece on the back, below where the chassis goes. As can be seen in the pictures above, a small amount of the MDF came up with the Tolex. It wasn't deep at all and will be smoothed out later. *On the Rumble 40 and up and the cabs, they are made from plywood and shouldn't lift, unless you don't heat the tolex and the glue underneath enough.
Note, there is a small neoprene seal around the underside of the chassis cut out, that is used to eliminate any vibrations between the chassis and the cabinet. You can ise a small thin weatherstripping or adhesive backed neoprene like I have to reseal this potential source of buzzing.
The stripped cab with the Tolex/vinyl removed.
Next up, the worst part, removing the residual glue, repairing the gouge on the bottom front and filling any dents or gouges.
To be continued.
(But not tonight.)
(But not tonight.)
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There are too many variables and subjectivity involved to be able to give an answer.
If the bass was not running through a decently good PA, I'd say that it would probably struggle, unless you back off on the Bass control on the R200c.
Having a HPF (High Pass Filter) would help, it would allow you to boost the Bass control a bit.
Engage the vintage button for a HPF of sorts, crank the master, and then use the gain knob as your volume knob. Seems to work fine with my Rumble 100 if I need it to be obnoxiously loud. I'm probably going to do that for a show next week, depending on what the PA/backline situation ends up being.
The Rumbles have a built-in 2nd order HPF, according to their block diagrams. Alas, no details on it are given.
Using the Rumble Club wiki’s “SVT settings” for my Rumble 100, my Epi Thunderbird VP with Thunderbuckers nails the tone Jack Bruce used with Cream on songs like Sunshine of Your Love. Thanks Fender, @jdshimkoski , and @G-Dog !
I still need to get a mudbucker installed, though.
I still need to get a mudbucker installed, though.
A fair number of modern bass amps have then at a fixed frequency HPF.
I should have specified that a variable HPF would probably help.
You tweak the frequency of the HPF as you tweak the Bass control on the amp to get the most solid 'B' or whatever frequency you want to hit, while not driving the speaker's voice coil out of its safe operating zone.
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