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Fender through body stringing?

Agree with post above; zero effect on resonance.

IME through body stringing with the Fender bridge causes the string to be bent at a much sharper angle at the saddle, leading to considerably more plastic deformation (damage) in the string core; which shortens string life considerably. Further, for you set up fiends, IME string life is inversely proportional to bend at saddle. FWIW.

So, to summarize through body strings = no improvement in tone and shorter string life.

IME/O
 
Agree with post above; zero effect on resonance.

IME through body stringing with the Fender bridge causes the string to be bent at a much sharper angle at the saddle, leading to considerably more plastic deformation (damage) in the string core; which shortens string life considerably. Further, for you set up fiends, IME string life is inversely proportional to bend at saddle. FWIW.

So, to summarize through body strings = no improvement in tone and shorter string life.
On the other hand, you move the problem to the head end with a toploader.

I have yet to see a set of strings that properly fit a full-scale Fender toploader's E, including the ones that come on them and any string that Fender sells.
 
Squier VM P-Bass TB: yes. I realize it doesn't say Fender on the headstock, but the bass it's modeled after did and was yes also, because the 51 P was and it started out as just a reissue.

A too-low break angle at the saddle will allow the string to wiggle in the saddle when struck, same as a straight-thru nut. Have to have enough.

The MIM Sting Signature Bass and the Squier Vintage Modified Precision Bass TB are both string through.

^^ Beat me to it.
 
I have a through body P Bass and haven't been able to find any tapered strings in Jakarta to replace the set it came with - but I thought that the point was that the tapered strings used with through body which gives you better lower tones? Should I just restring it with some Rotasounds?
 
On the other hand, you move the problem to the head end with a toploader.

I have yet to see a set of strings that properly fit a full-scale Fender toploader's E, including the ones that come on them and any string that Fender sells.
If I understand your post correctly, you are referring to the short distance between the bent plate and the E saddle, which can also result in a sharp bend in the string?

If so, that can be true; and I have found great effect by moving such bridges back about another 1/4", as long as the intonated G saddle does not run out of travel. This is a great setup mod which can really free up the action IME.
 
If you have a string through Fender, and you string it on the top, make sure the ferules are secure.

When I bought my Am Dlx P last year, I put flats on it, and when I removed the strings, the ferules fell out.
 
If I understand your post correctly, you are referring to the short distance between the bent plate and the E saddle, which can also result in a sharp bend in the string?

No, he's referring to the short distance between the nut and the E tuner. It usually results in the fat part of the string winding around the post, which isn't good and may result in a broken string. It's never happened to me, but I get his point.
 
No, he's referring to the short distance between the nut and the E tuner. It usually results in the fat part of the string winding around the post, which isn't good and may result in a broken string. It's never happened to me, but I get his point.
OK, I think most of us are familiar with that one. I don't find that to be either a tone or string killer. More know-how to minimize settling time without damaging the core.